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Old 10-30-2012, 07:27 AM   #526
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Originally Posted by Keven H View Post
They are all posted now. Sorry for the delay. let me know if you have any questions.



Hmm both motors are very good motor. the feel is slightly different, with the LRP motor having more torq and Reedy being smoother. I think you can get close to the same runtime with both motor from my previous testing. One of the main thing that helped me with effeciency and runtime was going to the Flow ESC. I was very surprised at how much cooler and faster the ESC was from what I had before. But I never ran into much issue with runtime with the 6500 battery before tho, I cam close a few times but it didnt seem much of a problem. I dont think .0 are more efficient. I think it has a lot to do with ESC settings, sometimes when they are wrong, it can be slower when the timing is too much and it doesnt reach it and therefore it will also drain more batteries so also something to take into concideration. But I think both motors are great and you can find what you like with either one of them with some testing, gearing and ESC.

Hope this helps, and let me know if you have any questions.





Sorry about that, it is fixed now !
hi keven!!
very great show at the IIC! Congratulation!

May I ask you to indicate your Flow speedo setup in 1/12th scale?
I'm interested to understand the setup did you use in Las Vesas and Heemstede.
I can't find them anywhere.
TY
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Old 11-02-2012, 09:50 AM   #527
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Originally Posted by TEAM BURN View Post
thanks Keven that helps! on your setup sheets for tire size f39.5/r41.5, would that be your last run?
Hmm it depends, for modified racing I would not start tires any small than 39 front and 41 rear but that is at big event and will only really last 1 run. the front tire size will also depend on the compound of tire you are using ! A stiffer tire like magenta you want to run slightly small than a pink so 39 is the smallest for magenta and 39.5 is about the smallest for pink to start a run.

In the rear, I pretty much always use pink and always run anywhere from 41.5 to 41. Hope this helps

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Originally Posted by Logi Maker View Post
76 is the most common with pinion range 57-63.... the TZGP will be epic!



The Futaba 9650 is the most popular.. I am running the Savox 1350 with no issues.....

Ok, thread is all yours Keven.... see you at the GP!
Thanks for shiming in, appreciate it ! see you next week

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Originally Posted by Yokomo_Ant3 View Post
Hi Keven,

Hope all is well, I was wondering if you have a starting setup for the 5.2 On asphalt? Also, are you going to TITC again?

Thanks,

Antoni
Hi Antoni,

Good to hear from you, I see your doing well out there. If I was to run asphalt with the 5.1 I think I would start with the same setup as I have been running on carpet, but I would probably run a slightly thinner lube un the damper dubes, like 15000 instead of 20 and I would run Magenta front for tires at 40.5mm and Pink rear at 42.5mm. I am really not sure about TITC, I am trying to see if it will be possible at this time but I sure hope I can make it again this year and see you guys again.

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Originally Posted by Francis M. View Post
Hi Keven, how do you determine which body you'll be running when going to a new track... LTCR or Mazda?
I usualy try and keep it as simple as Mazda speed 6 on carpet and LTCR on asphalt. I think the only time you would want to run a LTC on carpet is on a tight track and lower speed class because the car cuts in the corner better with the LTC but is smoother and feels like it rolls more with the Mazda and much easier to drive in mod for indoor carpet but when running outdoor you generaly need the steering and aggressiveness of the LTC.

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Originally Posted by ChadB. View Post
Kevin,
I was wondering how you go about setting your droop? Also, what is the preferred method when saucing tires for carpet racing?

Thanks
I usualy just set it up with the AE droop gauge and work it from there. You could also measure the axle height with a caliper when putting the car on blocks and that will be the most accurate way to measure your droop.


As for tires sauce, most races here use handout tire sauce so what I usualy do is start with saucing 15 min front and rear full tire and then see how my car is on the track and then adjust from there sometimes I will do 30 min rear and 10 min front if the car is too edgy but that is about all I do, I tend to like my tires more dried out but not fully dry when I hit the track, that seems to be the best for me.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Marx View Post
hi keven!!
very great show at the IIC! Congratulation!

May I ask you to indicate your Flow speedo setup in 1/12th scale?
I'm interested to understand the setup did you use in Las Vesas and Heemstede.
I can't find them anywhere.
TY
Marx
Thank you. There is 2 setting I know works great. With the LRP motor 4.0, I used the Spec rotor that comes in the spec motor, not the works one. That seemed to be the fastest and most efficient. Than for ESC setting, I run a lot of drag brake so that you would have to adjust to your liking but here it go : 7/1/3/3/7/1/0 and with Reedy Motor 3.5 stock rotor, I ran 7/3/0/4/8/2/0
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Old 11-02-2012, 04:05 PM   #528
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Did you go to Futaba Keven? The pictures from the Halloween race lead me to guess so.
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Old 11-02-2012, 04:36 PM   #529
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Just curious as to whas your go to tire for mod pan car on say a med. bite track? Most of the locals run blk and yellow i just looking for other compounds to try.
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Old 11-02-2012, 05:35 PM   #530
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Did you go to Futaba Keven? The pictures from the Halloween race lead me to guess so.
I ran the Futaba radio for the first time at the halloween race yes. The radio had a very balance and felt very good.

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Originally Posted by racer x 1 View Post
Just curious as to whas your go to tire for mod pan car on say a med. bite track? Most of the locals run blk and yellow i just looking for other compounds to try.
For mod I usualy run nothing but pink in the rear and sometime pink front or magenta. I never like any other compound but it also depends on what track you run at and if there is fuzz building up on the tires then I guess that would be the only reason to run black and yellow but otherwise, I would not run that combo.

Hope this helps !
Keven
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Old 11-03-2012, 09:51 AM   #531
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Kevin can u explain on your tc6.1 with the vertical ballstud mounts when u would raise or lower the inner ballstud front and rear and also outer ballstub on rear hub and caster blk
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Old 11-03-2012, 10:52 AM   #532
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keven H View Post
I ran the Futaba radio for the first time at the halloween race yes. The radio had a very balance and felt very good.



For mod I usualy run nothing but pink in the rear and sometime pink front or magenta. I never like any other compound but it also depends on what track you run at and if there is fuzz building up on the tires then I guess that would be the only reason to run black and yellow but otherwise, I would not run that combo.

Hope this helps !
Keven
my local club is going from mod to 13.5 blinky. And im looking to try other tires so im thinking pink rears with magenta front should work well and ill likely need to tweak my set up? I really just want to make sure i purchase the right shores to test. Thanks
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Old 11-05-2012, 01:30 PM   #533
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Originally Posted by rosko View Post
Kevin can u explain on your tc6.1 with the vertical ballstud mounts when u would raise or lower the inner ballstud front and rear and also outer ballstub on rear hub and caster blk
Hi,

Changing the camber link height will change your roll center and will affect camber gain as well ! Lowering the camber link (both inside and outside) will in theory raise you roll center and vice versa but does not seem to have that big of an effect. Lowering the link on the inside in the frint will give you more camber gain, and on higher traction, it can make the car difficult to drive and too edgy, and usualy when running a more angled front camber link, you will want to run less camber as well because camber is gained when suspentin travels.

for the rear, it works the same way and I usualy run more shims on the outer to make the car more stable going in and this way it tends to have more onpower steering. I never ran it less than 1mm on the hub as I never seemed to have to go this far.

Quote:
Originally Posted by racer x 1 View Post
my local club is going from mod to 13.5 blinky. And im looking to try other tires so im thinking pink rears with magenta front should work well and ill likely need to tweak my set up? I really just want to make sure i purchase the right shores to test. Thanks
I think most people use magenta front and pink rear for the 13.5 class. If I was to run the class this is where I would stard and if the car gets a little too edge, I would go to pink front. Setup should not have to be changed so much, I think a mod setup would work ok in 13.5 but probasbly have to adjust camber slightly and maybe caster a little bit. those 2 seem to be the one I play the most with on my 1/12 car
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Old 11-05-2012, 04:43 PM   #534
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Kevin,

I have a couple of questions about the Upper Arm Mount Spacing and Lower Arm Spacing on the 12R5.2.

Adding spacers to the Upper Arm Mount does what to the handling?

I noticed on Walter's setup sheet dated 1 Oct he was running 2mm spacers on the Lower Arm; is this correct? I didn't think it was possible to add a total of 4mm to the lower arms and keep the tires under the body?

Thanks for your time,

Jim
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Old 11-05-2012, 04:53 PM   #535
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Keven,

Will you and the rest of the team be running the New RC10R5.1 in WGT at the Snowbirds?
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Old 11-05-2012, 07:24 PM   #536
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Any chance you could post a picture of how you have you 12r5.2 wired?
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Old 11-07-2012, 08:58 AM   #537
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Frahm View Post
Kevin,

I have a couple of questions about the Upper Arm Mount Spacing and Lower Arm Spacing on the 12R5.2.

Adding spacers to the Upper Arm Mount does what to the handling?

I noticed on Walter's setup sheet dated 1 Oct he was running 2mm spacers on the Lower Arm; is this correct? I didn't think it was possible to add a total of 4mm to the lower arms and keep the tires under the body?

Thanks for your time,

Jim
Hi Jim

By adding spacer to the lower arm, you will make the front end wide and will usualy make the car easier to drive under high traction condition. I never tried to go as wide as walt did at iic assuming the setup sheet is right, but I can see a setup working with it when you want to have a smooth car going in the corner. You also have to take the upper link into concideration because making the lower arm longer will result in the top arm longer as well and I am not sure that you want the top arm space in when running that much shims on the lower arm. I could be wrong because I have never been that far but I think the car would be too lazy with a very long upper and lower arm.

Quote:
Originally Posted by AdrianM View Post
Keven,

Will you and the rest of the team be running the New RC10R5.1 in WGT at the Snowbirds?
Hi Adrian,

I am not sure if I will run WGT at snowbirds. I thought about it but was hoping they would have a 10.5 class so at this point i am really not sure if I will or not, if I do it will probablty be a last minut thing but I am sure sean, walt, trandel and some other guys will run it.

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Originally Posted by B00t13g View Post
Any chance you could post a picture of how you have you 12r5.2 wired?

Hi,

I dont have a very recent picture but you can take a look at this gallery on page 13 and you can see my car in there. It is not the greatest wire job since I was in a hurry when I changed esc and put a receiver pack in at the world but you get the idea. I have been running the same layout just cleaned things up a little.

Here is the link : http://events.redrc.net/event-galler...ds/?nggpage=13
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Old 11-07-2012, 12:13 PM   #538
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Thank you Keven. That helps a lot!
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Old 11-07-2012, 01:14 PM   #539
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I talked to Mike Boylan. The only WGT class at the Snowbirds will be 13.5 Blinky.
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Old 11-07-2012, 09:34 PM   #540
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Kevin, I'm a huge associated fan and have been fro years. Nice to see a Canadian doing so well at the pro level.

My question is for 1/12 front tire diameters. What affect does a smaller front tire have as a tuning option? I understand you run 39 ish fronts and 41 ish rears...what would force someone to use say 40 and 40? What does it do to the car's performance when the rear tire diameter equals the front ?
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