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Old 10-23-2012, 02:23 PM
  #511  
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I have posted this question also in Mp and Here.
Hi keven, no problem.
For the shocks I do the same thing but I use the Tamiya blu o-ring and I am satisfied for the work with 450 MuchMore oil. Now I am testing Tamiya shocks to see the difference between the original TC6.For gear diff. some tips? Building, oil, grease and so on.
For your set-up I am not able to see this in the IIC website, can help me?
Now solved in "Team Associated TC6 Thread"
Thks
Enrico
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Old 10-23-2012, 03:58 PM
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Kevin what difference do u feel runing your shock bottoms in the b hole compared to outer c hole?
Why did you run kickup?
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Old 10-23-2012, 04:11 PM
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[QUOTE=Keven H;11359649]Hi Gom,

You will need to cut the sharp edge but very very little and is easier done with a exacto knife. You will also need the hex like with the RSD.

got it. thanks Keven.
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Old 10-23-2012, 04:47 PM
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Do you by chance have a good starting setup for 1/12th 17.5 at mikes? Ill be picking up mine shortly and have never driven 1/12th scale.
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Old 10-24-2012, 03:12 AM
  #515  
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Originally Posted by Keven H
Hmm both motors are very good motor. the feel is slightly different, with the LRP motor having more torq and Reedy being smoother. I think you can get close to the same runtime with both motor from my previous testing. One of the main thing that helped me with effeciency and runtime was going to the Flow ESC. I was very surprised at how much cooler and faster the ESC was from what I had before. But I never ran into much issue with runtime with the 6500 battery before tho, I cam close a few times but it didnt seem much of a problem. I dont think .0 are more efficient. I think it has a lot to do with ESC settings, sometimes when they are wrong, it can be slower when the timing is too much and it doesnt reach it and therefore it will also drain more batteries so also something to take into concideration. But I think both motors are great and you can find what you like with either one of them with some testing, gearing and ESC.

Hope this helps, and let me know if you have any questions.
Thank you, I just bought Reedy 4.5 and 5.0
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Old 10-24-2012, 01:14 PM
  #516  
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Originally Posted by 20967
I have posted this question also in Mp and Here.
Hi keven, no problem.
For the shocks I do the same thing but I use the Tamiya blu o-ring and I am satisfied for the work with 450 MuchMore oil. Now I am testing Tamiya shocks to see the difference between the original TC6.For gear diff. some tips? Building, oil, grease and so on.
For your set-up I am not able to see this in the IIC website, can help me?
Now solved in "Team Associated TC6 Thread"
Thks
Enrico
Hi, When I build my gear diff I just put everything together like the instruction and once in a while probably every 3 race meeting, I will change the orings and gear to make sure the diff is always in good shape because the oring tend to swell and makes the diff feel thicker. As for the setups, they are posted on www.rc10.com under setup.



Originally Posted by rosko
Kevin what difference do u feel runing your shock bottoms in the b hole compared to outer c hole?
Why did you run kickup?
if you are talking about front and rear, going to the B hole front and rear will usualy make the car a little agressive. the car will feel like it rolls more and I have found the car to be more stable on high grip condition in the C hole. The main difference for me was in the sweeper with the C holes the car did not want to dump over and felt like it carried more corner speed.

Originally Posted by B00t13g
Do you by chance have a good starting setup for 1/12th 17.5 at mikes? Ill be picking up mine shortly and have never driven 1/12th scale.

This will be just a guess since I have never run 17.5 1/12 but if I was to run the class I would start with the IIC mod setup and probably silver side spring and Black and yellow for tires and that should be a good starting point ! hope this helps.
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Old 10-24-2012, 04:41 PM
  #517  
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Originally Posted by B00t13g
Do you by chance have a good starting setup for 1/12th 17.5 at mikes? Ill be picking up mine shortly and have never driven 1/12th scale.
The Howart (Hebert's) setup from world's is dialed.... your rollout, depending on motor will be between 95-105... I am at 104mm with a reedy sonic.... you're going to love it!
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Old 10-24-2012, 10:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Logi Maker
The Howart (Hebert's) setup from world's is dialed.... your rollout, depending on motor will be between 95-105... I am at 104mm with a reedy sonic.... you're going to love it!
whats a good size and spur to start with for 17.5 1/12? thinking i might run 17.5 at the TZGP

Last edited by TEAM BURN; 10-24-2012 at 11:15 PM.
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Old 10-24-2012, 11:31 PM
  #519  
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Originally Posted by Keven H
Thank you, when you get the car, nothing major is needed except the Dual joint for the front when running on carpet is a good option to have. I run the Tamiya one from Spec-R but I beleive the Yokomo are a good fit has well but you need 5mm hex with any dual joint you will use because stock AE hex wont fit.

Everything else should be going together well and you should be good to go.

For 1/12, if you do run mod, I would not go any bigger than 42.5-43mm in the rear to start with and 40.5 front to get about 5 runs on them. problem is when running modified now the cars are so fast that tire wear can be an issue. I run mine down to 38.8mm but thats as low as I will go for front and 40.8 for rear.

Good to hear you will be at timezone GP. Looking forward to meet new people.
thanks Keven that helps! on your setup sheets for tire size f39.5/r41.5, would that be your last run?
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Old 10-25-2012, 12:46 AM
  #520  
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Originally Posted by Keven H


This will be just a guess since I have never run 17.5 1/12 but if I was to run the class I would start with the IIC mod setup and probably silver side spring and Black and yellow for tires and that should be a good starting point ! hope this helps.
Thanks keven, ill give it a shot!

Originally Posted by Logi Maker
The Howart (Hebert's) setup from world's is dialed.... your rollout, depending on motor will be between 95-105... I am at 104mm with a reedy sonic.... you're going to love it!
Thanks man! I'm pretty excited to build and try 1/12 for the first time! Ill be using a reedy 17.5 and an Orion r10 I THINK. Do you have any recommendations on a good servo?
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Old 10-25-2012, 04:13 AM
  #521  
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Originally Posted by TEAM BURN
whats a good size and spur to start with for 17.5 1/12? thinking i might run 17.5 at the TZGP
76 is the most common with pinion range 57-63.... the TZGP will be epic!

Originally Posted by B00t13g



Thanks man! I'm pretty excited to build and try 1/12 for the first time! Ill be using a reedy 17.5 and an Orion r10 I THINK. Do you have any recommendations on a good servo?
The Futaba 9650 is the most popular.. I am running the Savox 1350 with no issues.....

Ok, thread is all yours Keven.... see you at the GP!
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Old 10-25-2012, 05:08 AM
  #522  
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Hi Keven,

Hope all is well, I was wondering if you have a starting setup for the 5.2 On asphalt? Also, are you going to TITC again?

Thanks,

Antoni
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Old 10-25-2012, 10:00 AM
  #523  
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[QUOTE=Keven H;11363967]
Hi, When I build my gear diff I just put everything together like the instruction and once in a while probably every 3 race meeting, I will change the orings and gear to make sure the diff is always in good shape because the oring tend to swell and makes the diff feel thicker. As for the setups, they are posted on www.rc10.com under setup.

Thks for info.
Enrico
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Old 10-29-2012, 12:57 PM
  #524  
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Hi Keven, how do you determine which body you'll be running when going to a new track... LTCR or Mazda?
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Old 10-29-2012, 05:23 PM
  #525  
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Kevin,
I was wondering how you go about setting your droop? Also, what is the preferred method when saucing tires for carpet racing?

Thanks
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