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Old 03-11-2012, 09:11 PM   #436
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Originally Posted by Bubonic-X View Post
I'm not getting any response from the 12r5 thread so my question is when you look at the setup sheets on the associated site nobody marks what caster they are using with the 3 choices, so does that mean everybody just uses the standard 10 no matter what?
Also the setup sheets refer to a t plate used, looking at the manual there is no reference to a t plate.
Hi, sometimes questions get lost in the pages

There are two factors in the ft end castor

1. The reactive castor or upper arm mount setting like 0, 5 and 10 degrees

2. The two spacers that actually adjust the castor. One is thin, one is thick

Here is an updated setup sheet with no t-bar

RC125.2
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Old 03-12-2012, 07:42 AM   #437
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Originally Posted by jorgesimes View Post
Can you post your setup from Canarias?
Hi Jorge. I don,t have a made up setup sheet from the race but I was not too happy with the setup I ended up with ! at times my car was ok and if I had to go again I would start with something very close to my modified snowbird setup except for a few minor changes. I would run the front end slightly narrower 2.5 and 2mm instead of 3.5 and 3. and I would run silver silver for spring and I would run losi 56 and 35 weight shock oil all the way around ! hope this helps. Let me know if you have anymore questions

Quote:
Originally Posted by icefish View Post
Dear Keven~~ thanks for your advise in PM, anyway i've one more question for those who what's the problem....i getting very headace on this problem..

alright keven, thanks for your advise, can you pls advise what problem make my tyre like this?



I think this is just normal tire wear as well. Looks like the tires are too worn out. any tires that are over run will end up like this when running outdoor ! I think the setup is ok so I would try a new set and see what happens.

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Originally Posted by icefish View Post
Sorry guys, i know i'm quite annoying, but if i don get it understand, i will always can not improve, hope to get help from all of you.

ask the pic show below, rick set his FWD arm mount front 3A and Rear 0B? or 2B??,


so the effect will be as follow, the car arm will be a slide to front, am i right? what does this help?
The arm mount rick ran on his tc6 are 3A and 0B for the front so that gives you 1 degree of anti-dive.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sczrface85 View Post
keven,

im purchasing the new tc6.1 in the next week or so. i was wondering what servo would you think i would want to get. also what diff fluid in the front and rear do you use. plus any tips do you have for high bit carpat track thanks
I have had very good luck with the radiopost servo. They are smaller than a std size servo and a little bigger than a short stubby servo and we need some weight on that side of the car anyway so it is a very good compromise. Also, with that servo you can shorten the wire without doing any soldering because there is room in the case to do so. I am running the speed type (blue anodized) you can fin them at www.radiopost.com

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bubonic-X View Post
I'm not getting any response from the 12r5 thread so my question is when you look at the setup sheets on the associated site nobody marks what caster they are using with the 3 choices, so does that mean everybody just uses the standard 10 no matter what?
Also the setup sheets refer to a t plate used, looking at the manual there is no reference to a t plate.
I personaly run the 10 degree 95% of the time. for me it makes my car easier to drive going in the corner and seem like I carry more corner speed the way I drive my car. I play with the shims much more than I play with the block because in previous testing I always prefered 10 degree but I think it is a driver preference.
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Old 03-12-2012, 08:47 AM   #438
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Hi guys...
It's a bit off topic but can i know what is the differance between rated amp and continous amp for esc's? Or is it the same thing..
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Old 04-04-2012, 09:00 PM   #439
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hi keven, sorry for disturbing again, may i know what charger and battery you using? does good charger and battery help on performance? and also did a good charger really help to keep more life for a battery ( for good battery and normal cheap battery ). let say i've a turnigy nano-tech 6000mah 65-130c 2s battery, how many A should i go on it? because normally i only put at 4.0A to charge it.

next question, i need help on tuning/adjust a car tweak, as you say before, i really can't imagine or even have a picture in my mind how to work it out, hope you can explain in more simple way to me. thanks.
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Old 04-06-2012, 09:15 PM   #440
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READ HERE

Thanks for the great interview Keven!
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Old 04-07-2012, 07:03 AM   #441
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keven H View Post
Hi Jorge. I don,t have a made up setup sheet from the race but I was not too happy with the setup I ended up with ! at times my car was ok and if I had to go again I would start with something very close to my modified snowbird setup except for a few minor changes. I would run the front end slightly narrower 2.5 and 2mm instead of 3.5 and 3. and I would run silver silver for spring and I would run losi 56 and 35 weight shock oil all the way around ! hope this helps. Let me know if you have anymore questions



I think this is just normal tire wear as well. Looks like the tires are too worn out. any tires that are over run will end up like this when running outdoor ! I think the setup is ok so I would try a new set and see what happens.



The arm mount rick ran on his tc6 are 3A and 0B for the front so that gives you 1 degree of anti-dive.



I have had very good luck with the radiopost servo. They are smaller than a std size servo and a little bigger than a short stubby servo and we need some weight on that side of the car anyway so it is a very good compromise. Also, with that servo you can shorten the wire without doing any soldering because there is room in the case to do so. I am running the speed type (blue anodized) you can fin them at www.radiopost.com



I personaly run the 10 degree 95% of the time. for me it makes my car easier to drive going in the corner and seem like I carry more corner speed the way I drive my car. I play with the shims much more than I play with the block because in previous testing I always prefered 10 degree but I think it is a driver preference.
Hi Keven,
As to the radiopost servo.
Are they low profile servos? (looking at the dimensions I think not, 37.8mm...)
I find them quite heavy at about 65gr. I am used to servos that weigh about 40/45gr.

You say you need some weight on that side of the car anyway so it is a very good compromise. Is that for the 6.1 in general or just in your case?
But I see weight being added, if necessary, on the LiPo-side because LiPos are lighter than the NiMh batteries were. Therefore I don't understand the need for extra weight on the servoside. Or isn't that the case anymore with new LiPo-chassis nowadays?

So with a lighter servo there would be a balance problem? The car would tilt to the right? I read a testreview in the The Big RC where that wasn't the case. A 40-45gr servo was used.

How much does a 6.1 weigh, on average, using the servo you suggest?
(and ofcourse I know all the other parts have to be taken into consideration too). It has to be as close to 1,350gr as possible.

Will this servo work with the Sanwa MT-4?

I'll wait buying me a servo untill I heard your opinion on this matter.

Can the screws in the topdeck of the 6.1 be used for flex tuning?
Screws in stiffer, screws out more flex, and so on.
Which screws to see te accomplish what?

Any experience?

Or is the topdeck of this car not meant to be used that way?

And how about cutting the topdeck to get more flex in order to have more grip under low grip circumstances?
If an option, where to cut it? Dremel the material off that is in between the fork in the back?
Or in the front where there is a hole and cut the material in front of that out?

The blanc setup sheets have no option to fill in a category on topdeckflex.
And the manual doesn't say anything about it.

On that matter: I am going to race on a short circuit, technical, outdoors, asphalt, with low grip. Looked at a bunch of setupsheets on petitrc. Most of the time silver in front and rear is used. Shock and diff oil between 30wt and 45wt. Mostly 35wt and 40wt. But all of the circuits were medium to high grip or low-medium.

Was thinking of green springs all around, 30wt in shocks and diff, lower rollcenter to increase grip.
Or would this be too soft? And how about anti-rollbars considering the characteristics of the circuit I am talking about?
Because of these low grip circumstances how about the topdeck? Screws out, cutting or what not? (maybe you can post some pics of cut top deck, I mean the way you went along).
Of course testing it myself is the best way. but I appreciate your input very much. So to have a starting point and not do things that wouldn't work at all.

Thanks,
Ken

Last edited by Kensei; 04-07-2012 at 02:51 PM.
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Old 04-07-2012, 06:10 PM   #442
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gregsbox View Post
READ HERE

Thanks for the great interview Keven!
Thanks for sharing ! My Pleasure

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kensei View Post
Hi Keven,
As to the radiopost servo.
Are they low profile servos? (looking at the dimensions I think not, 37.8mm...)
I find them quite heavy at about 65gr. I am used to servos that weigh about 40/45gr.

You say you need some weight on that side of the car anyway so it is a very good compromise. Is that for the 6.1 in general or just in your case?
But I see weight being added, if necessary, on the LiPo-side because LiPos are lighter than the NiMh batteries were. Therefore I don't understand the need for extra weight on the servoside. Or isn't that the case anymore with new LiPo-chassis nowadays?

So with a lighter servo there would be a balance problem? The car would tilt to the right? I read a testreview in the The Big RC where that wasn't the case. A 40-45gr servo was used.

How much does a 6.1 weigh, on average, using the servo you suggest?
(and ofcourse I know all the other parts have to be taken into consideration too). It has to be as close to 1,350gr as possible.

Will this servo work with the Sanwa MT-4?

I'll wait buying me a servo untill I heard your opinion on this matter.

Can the screws in the topdeck of the 6.1 be used for flex tuning?
Screws in stiffer, screws out more flex, and so on.
Which screws to see te accomplish what?

Any experience?

Or is the topdeck of this car not meant to be used that way?

And how about cutting the topdeck to get more flex in order to have more grip under low grip circumstances?
If an option, where to cut it? Dremel the material off that is in between the fork in the back?
Or in the front where there is a hole and cut the material in front of that out?

The blanc setup sheets have no option to fill in a category on topdeckflex.
And the manual doesn't say anything about it.

On that matter: I am going to race on a short circuit, technical, outdoors, asphalt, with low grip. Looked at a bunch of setupsheets on petitrc. Most of the time silver in front and rear is used. Shock and diff oil between 30wt and 45wt. Mostly 35wt and 40wt. But all of the circuits were medium to high grip or low-medium.

Was thinking of green springs all around, 30wt in shocks and diff, lower rollcenter to increase grip.
Or would this be too soft? And how about anti-rollbars considering the characteristics of the circuit I am talking about?
Because of these low grip circumstances how about the topdeck? Screws out, cutting or what not? (maybe you can post some pics of cut top deck, I mean the way you went along).
Of course testing it myself is the best way. but I appreciate your input very much. So to have a starting point and not do things that wouldn't work at all.

Thanks,
Ken
Hi, I have ran heavy servo for quite some time now. Before I ran RSX servo from KO propo and were heavier than the one I run now. It honestly depends on the electronics you run battery, ESC, Motor because there can be a lot of difference between electronics. Everytime I did balance my car I neve had to add weight to the battery side ! Back when we ran round cell the motor was very far out and the cars were quite a bit different.

I have had great success with the Radiopost servo and they are a little shorter than a Regulat servo but not as short as a shorty servo.

My car right now weight about 1360 with no weight added and the balance is spot on. To check it quick you can use the shock tower whole in the center and see how close it is.

As for the Setup, If I was to run a low bite asphalt track I would start with the latest setup Rick Posted, I would not necessarely go softer because most often than not you can loose grip by doing so ! I would try the exact same and go from there. Maybe a smaller bar all around can be something to try as well.
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Old 04-07-2012, 09:16 PM   #443
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Hey Kevin, Nice interview

Question please?

What brand 115 spur are you running in Sedan

And what pinions do you prefer?

Thank you
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Old 04-08-2012, 02:45 AM   #444
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keven H View Post
Thanks for sharing ! My Pleasure



Hi, I have ran heavy servo for quite some time now. Before I ran RSX servo from KO propo and were heavier than the one I run now. It honestly depends on the electronics you run battery, ESC, Motor because there can be a lot of difference between electronics. Everytime I did balance my car I neve had to add weight to the battery side ! Back when we ran round cell the motor was very far out and the cars were quite a bit different.

I have had great success with the Radiopost servo and they are a little shorter than a Regulat servo but not as short as a shorty servo.

My car right now weight about 1360 with no weight added and the balance is spot on. To check it quick you can use the shock tower whole in the center and see how close it is.

As for the Setup, If I was to run a low bite asphalt track I would start with the latest setup Rick Posted, I would not necessarely go softer because most often than not you can loose grip by doing so ! I would try the exact same and go from there. Maybe a smaller bar all around can be something to try as well.
Hi Keven,

Thanks for the info.

One thing. You say:"
My car right now weight about 1360 with no weight added and the balance is spot on. To check it quick you can use the shock tower whole in the center and see how close it is.

How does this check work? Do I need a setup tool for that?
(I understand it must have to do something with lifting up the car in the shock tower holes)

In the early days of TC-racing I used a piece of cardboard and bend it to create a balancing point for the car. Later I switched to the Hudy balancing pins. Both I don't like very much. So I am interested in your method.

I only hear of balancing left right. Hardly hear of balancing front rear. Any ideas on that? In the past I made a marking on the chassisplate in the middle of the wheelbase. Then I put the car on the bend cardboard setup tool I made myself. That way I could balance front/rear. With balancing pins that is hardly possible. With some kind of tool where the car "hangs" in it also not.

Please inform me about possible topdeck tuning. For instance screws in/screws out. Cutting and so on and so forth.

Kind regards,

Ken Sei

Last edited by Kensei; 04-08-2012 at 04:21 PM.
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Old 04-09-2012, 02:19 AM   #445
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Default Zeppin pinions 48DP

Hi Keven,

Would these fit for TC6.1?

http://www.rc-mushroom.com/index.php...age=14&sort=1a

Thanks.

Ken Sei
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Old 04-09-2012, 11:51 AM   #446
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Default TC6 Composite Spool Outdrives #31341

Hi Keven,

Sorry to bother you with this, but on the TC6 thread no one answers.

Do the TC6 Composite Spool Outdrives wear out fast?
I'm asking because I want to stack some spares but they are very hard to get my hands on.

On the TC6 and the TC6.1 they are the same part?

Kind regards,

Ken Sei
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Old 04-09-2012, 02:59 PM   #447
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Hi Keven,

What settings do you set on a lrp sxx tc ver2 for tc mod
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Old 04-11-2012, 03:13 PM   #448
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Infinite 12th View Post
Hey Kevin, Nice interview

Question please?

What brand 115 spur are you running in Sedan

And what pinions do you prefer?

Thank you
Hi,

Thanks, I use associated spur gear and I use Xenon pinion. Robinson also works good.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kensei View Post
Hi Keven,

Thanks for the info.

One thing. You say:"
My car right now weight about 1360 with no weight added and the balance is spot on. To check it quick you can use the shock tower whole in the center and see how close it is.

How does this check work? Do I need a setup tool for that?
(I understand it must have to do something with lifting up the car in the shock tower holes)

In the early days of TC-racing I used a piece of cardboard and bend it to create a balancing point for the car. Later I switched to the Hudy balancing pins. Both I don't like very much. So I am interested in your method.

I only hear of balancing left right. Hardly hear of balancing front rear. Any ideas on that? In the past I made a marking on the chassisplate in the middle of the wheelbase. Then I put the car on the bend cardboard setup tool I made myself. That way I could balance front/rear. With balancing pins that is hardly possible. With some kind of tool where the car "hangs" in it also not.

Please inform me about possible topdeck tuning. For instance screws in/screws out. Cutting and so on and so forth.

Kind regards,

Ken Sei
Hi,

All you need to check side to side is a string or something small enough and round to fit in the shock tower holes and then see if left and right side lift off the table at the same time.

As for front to back , I have never really balance my car that way. I do play with the weight from time to time adding more in the front in certain circumstance.

For top deck, I have ran the stock top deck for a long time now and never ran the 2 button head screw where the spur gear mount are. I have tried a a cut top deck on carpet but more of the time when I did it made the car harder to drive on higher bite carpet. I have yet to try to play with flex on asphalt but for sure will once I get to run more asphalt before Reedy Race.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Kensei View Post
Hi Keven,

Would these fit for TC6.1?

http://www.rc-mushroom.com/index.php...age=14&sort=1a

Thanks.

Ken Sei
Yes

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kensei View Post
Hi Keven,

Sorry to bother you with this, but on the TC6 thread no one answers.

Do the TC6 Composite Spool Outdrives wear out fast?
I'm asking because I want to stack some spares but they are very hard to get my hands on.

On the TC6 and the TC6.1 they are the same part?

Kind regards,

Ken Sei
The outdrive do not wear out much unless you brake the blade. Then it is good to change it since if it put a dent in the outdrive it will break blades almost every run. But for sure a good part to have in the parts box !

Quote:
Originally Posted by bosfan View Post
Hi Keven,

What settings do you set on a lrp sxx tc ver2 for tc mod
Hi,

For mod, I run 0/2/1/3 with the 4.0 software last time I ran a v2 esc, but it could differ with different brand motor, wind, track so it is hard to have a clear answer. If you tell me what track size and what motor I will be more than happy to give you a starting point .
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Old 04-11-2012, 04:20 PM   #449
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Sorry bout that track size about 225' straight & motor rev tech 7.5 t

Last edited by bosfan; 04-12-2012 at 05:31 PM.
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Old 05-06-2012, 12:36 AM   #450
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Lightbulb wow really quiet in here

well my work schedule is clearing up some free time so ill have to finish my build so i can get back to racing soon .any set ups for a parking lot /sugar watered type track 17.5 stock
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