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Old 02-04-2012, 09:22 AM   #376
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http://rcactionpics.com/gallery/2012...rsday_325.html

http://rcactionpics.com/gallery/2012...rsday_326.html

http://rcactionpics.com/gallery/2012...rsday_327.html

Here you can see the top deck is cut a little.
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Old 02-04-2012, 11:21 AM   #377
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Thanks.
Exactly what i try to test :-)
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Old 02-11-2012, 01:25 PM   #378
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Originally Posted by nicorozog View Post
Ey keven can you give some advice to 10.5 Boosted class using LRP SS V2, with Reedy Sonic 10.5....

Thanks!
Hi,

Sorry for the late reply. I have never ran the 10.5 with boost yet but if I had to guess ESC setting I would guess 0/10/6/1 and no more than 25degree of timing on motor but then again, this is just a guess and I could be wrong. Sorry I could not help more.

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Originally Posted by M.Abramowicz View Post
Keven,

it is posible to put your tc6.1 car on weight scales each corner?

And share how many grams is at front under tire and rear end?

Car ready to run.

Thank you
m
Hi,

Unfortunately I don't have access to 4 scales so I am not sure what the weight is in the front vs rear. If you did your you can post it here for future reference maybe.

Thank you

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Originally Posted by Geberit View Post
Hi Keven,

I see you cut your top deck a little, do you get more flex with this?

I was reading someone was cutting the shock towers in half to get more chassis flex. Do you think this is a good idea for low traction surface tracks or did you maybe tried it yourself?

Thanks
Hi,

I did cut the top plate to get a little more steering. The difference is a subtle but sure can be seen and in certain condition, I like more flex so it is a good tuning option.

As for the shock tower, I have never done so or heard of poeple doing it but I guess it could be a good thing to try in the future. If you ever et to it let me know what you think

thank you
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Old 02-12-2012, 01:59 AM   #379
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I played a little with the shock towers. Cut them in half then made a carbon plate to fix them back. So now I have the option to alter it.

What I noticed first was practically no tweak in the chassis any more since the mounting holes with countersink are a little of.

With the plates installed the car drives normally like with whole shock towers. But I didn't test it without since at the moment I'm driving on a high bite carpet and that wouldn't have any sense.

Cheers
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Old 02-12-2012, 04:12 AM   #380
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jay7 View Post
Keven thanx for showing me that method on tweaking my TC in New Rochelle last week. Been using it and I feel a difference. Good luck at the Snowbirds!!
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Originally Posted by CraigM View Post
Which method is that?
Could you please share your method on tweaking the car. I can't get my to be perfectly flat no mater what. As soon as I start tightening the upper deck the car just get's tweaked. I think the problem is that the holes on the upperdeck don't line up perfectly with the holes on the bulkheads, but maybe there is another way to tighten the upperdeck then just setting the car on a flat surface and tighten the screws while applying some force downward.
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Old 02-12-2012, 04:54 AM   #381
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Hi Keven,

Can you comment on how you set your TC6.1 up differently to the TC6?

Is the suspension geometry the same or slightly different? Also, do you use the offset lower suspension mounts and do you know how much toe they give if I only use the offset on the rear with no spacers?

Regards,

Neal
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Old 02-12-2012, 05:20 AM   #382
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Geberit View Post
I played a little with the shock towers. Cut them in half then made a carbon plate to fix them back. So now I have the option to alter it.

What I noticed first was practically no tweak in the chassis any more since the mounting holes with countersink are a little of.

With the plates installed the car drives normally like with whole shock towers. But I didn't test it without since at the moment I'm driving on a high bite carpet and that wouldn't have any sense.

Cheers
I like it, good work. Not seen that done before on a chassis. What would be cool is to put a rubber o-ring between the centre brace and the towers to provide a controllable amount of flex.

Might do this on my wet car.
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Old 02-12-2012, 01:45 PM   #383
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Redwood View Post
Hi Keven,

Can you comment on how you set your TC6.1 up differently to the TC6?

Is the suspension geometry the same or slightly different? Also, do you use the offset lower suspension mounts and do you know how much toe they give if I only use the offset on the rear with no spacers?

Regards,

Neal
According to both the manual and my setup station, normal block at front of rear arm and offset block at rear of rear arm gives 2.5* toe-in.

-Mike
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Old 02-12-2012, 02:50 PM   #384
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Thanks for the info. 2.5 is a little on the low side so I will have to add some shims, thanks.

Neal
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Old 02-13-2012, 02:37 AM   #385
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hi Keven,

Have you a starting setup for a Reedy Sonic 5.0 + LRP SXX V2 with 4.0 soft ?
(Carpet track with 12s lap time).

12.2 or 12.5 mm rotor ?
Ratio ?
Motor Timing ?
Sxx setup ?

Thanks.
Sébastien.
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Old 02-13-2012, 09:04 AM   #386
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Quote:
Originally Posted by S_fender View Post
hi Keven,

Have you a starting setup for a Reedy Sonic 5.0 + LRP SXX V2 with 4.0 soft ?
(Carpet track with 12s lap time).

12.2 or 12.5 mm rotor ?
Ratio ?
Motor Timing ?
Sxx setup ?

Thanks.
Sébastien.
Sebastien,

I know that Keven typically does not use the 5.0, but I ALWAYS do and am using the 4.0 update.

I use the 12.5 rotor starting at 8.51 (27/118) on a small (US style) carpet track. Timing is set at 2.5 bars (old can). With the new can you can run 20 deg to start.

I run 0-0-2-3 with SXX TC-Spec.

Hope this helps.
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Old 02-14-2012, 11:33 PM   #387
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Just bought a couple of Reedy 65c 6500mah 1s batteries. I love them! One problem the inner tube of the battery that the male bullet slides in is super tight. I thought it was the piece of plastic before the female tube so I took an exacto and slightly reamed it. Got the male bullet to go in a little more. Now the big problem was that it got stuck and in trying to wiggle it out the inner tube on battery spins now. I checked the batterys power and no go! Talked to Stormer Hobbies (great service by the way). Told me to call Associated and they said to send it and they will check it out. I hope they can fix it cause I really like my new batteries. They gave me the strongest run time yet. I was using TQ bullets and they fit inside all my other batteries some loose and some just right. I was told about the Associated bullets and I think I am going to be ordering some of those soon. I like the way you can solder to the top of them and that they flare out to grab so they wont slide out! No advice needed, just wanted to tell you my story and I learned my lesson. thx
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Old 02-15-2012, 02:35 AM   #388
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dear all, pls help on this issue.
recently, i just brought the LRP firware update pc bridge link cable and trying to update my ESC to V2, but i facing the fail connection on it, pls help me on this issue.

1st of all, i plug in the LRP USB Bridge - Speedo Firmware Update + PC-Link into the computer, and it auto install the driver from window XP, after that the blue led at the bridge light up, after that i plug in the sensored cable from ESC to the bridge, and start up the LRP firware update tools v2.0.4 for pc and click connect, it pop out a instruction asking me to off the on/off switch, and unplug the batterry, after i click ok on the instruction, it start to search and take time around 15-20 seconds, and i saw the bridge light up the yellow/orange led together with the blue led at the same time, meanwhile, ESC also light up BLUE (not red, suppose to be red according to the user manual) LED, and after that it show can't establish the connection. pls help on this issue. thanks.







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Last edited by icefish; 02-15-2012 at 08:07 PM.
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Old 02-18-2012, 09:01 AM   #389
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Quote:
Originally Posted by z3zinho View Post
Could you please share your method on tweaking the car. I can't get my to be perfectly flat no mater what. As soon as I start tightening the upper deck the car just get's tweaked. I think the problem is that the holes on the upperdeck don't line up perfectly with the holes on the bulkheads, but maybe there is another way to tighten the upperdeck then just setting the car on a flat surface and tighten the screws while applying some force downward.
Hi,

Usualy tweaking the car to make sure the chassis is flat is pretty simple i just put the car on blocks and tighten the top in no partycular order if the chassis end up tweak 95 percent of the time it is because you have a bent bulkhead or bent screw.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Redwood View Post
Hi Keven,

Can you comment on how you set your TC6.1 up differently to the TC6?

Is the suspension geometry the same or slightly different? Also, do you use the offset lower suspension mounts and do you know how much toe they give if I only use the offset on the rear with no spacers?

Regards,

Neal
Hi,

The suspension geometrie is quite a bit different with the rear arm being longer and front arm slightly shorter. Also the off set of the hubs are different as well. I started from scratch pretty much when i started running the 6.1 to make sure to start fresh with and work from there. It is hard to say since i did no go back to back but i beleive the new 6.1 carries more corner speed and have a little more steering and i usualy run slightly more rear toe than i did on the 6.

Quote:
Originally Posted by icefish View Post
dear all, pls help on this issue.
recently, i just brought the LRP firware update pc bridge link cable and trying to update my ESC to V2, but i facing the fail connection on it, pls help me on this issue.

1st of all, i plug in the LRP USB Bridge - Speedo Firmware Update + PC-Link into the computer, and it auto install the driver from window XP, after that the blue led at the bridge light up, after that i plug in the sensored cable from ESC to the bridge, and start up the LRP firware update tools v2.0.4 for pc and click connect, it pop out a instruction asking me to off the on/off switch, and unplug the batterry, after i click ok on the instruction, it start to search and take time around 15-20 seconds, and i saw the bridge light up the yellow/orange led together with the blue led at the same time, meanwhile, ESC also light up BLUE (not red, suppose to be red according to the user manual) LED, and after that it show can't establish the connection. pls help on this issue. thanks.








I had this problem a few tim only if the esc was plugged before i opened the program. It see,s like the est is plugged correctly so i would try that to start.
I also had the problem when the battery was plugged. Also you need to make sure your esc is a version 2.
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Old 02-18-2012, 09:43 AM   #390
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Hi Keven,

What was the reason for your dramatic smoke in your TC6 in Las Vegas a few months ago?
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