R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 12-19-2011, 06:20 AM   #346
Tech Fanatic
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Poland, Warsaw
Posts: 773
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

+3

But it is simple:
- take off traction from front,
- left rear as is,
- take off some traction from rear as last step.

Front:
- can add some ca glue on front tires to prevent traction roll,
- less time additive on tires and/or not 100% width of tire, maybe 75%
It take some grip in cornering, car will slip on CA glue, no roll.

This:
- less drop (less down stop),
- harder spring one step up or not, it depend what need.
It take some grip at braking, entering corner, less weight transwered from rear to front (less grip).

This:
- move up front camber link (on tower from 3 to 5) (I do not like 7),
- add washer on ballstud on c-hub,
- move up a-arm mounts.
It made less roll on chassis, car will be more flat in corner, overall less grip.

Also put at front harder sway bar and left softer springs (silvers).

Usually I left rear as is, silvers + black sway bar, or greens springs and silver sway bar.


But it is for me, I like when car push when too fast.

But I like what Keven will wrote
__________________
Michal Abramowicz
http://abram.eu.org/gear_tc6.php
My setups there -> http://www.rc-setups.com
TC6!, TC5R, 12L4, 12R5.1, 10L2, 10R5, RC8T_CE_EL custom F1 chassis
http://www.wgtshop.com/
M.Abramowicz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-12-2012, 04:29 PM   #347
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 286
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by burgboyz View Post
Hello Kevin.
I must believe that most of your posted setups are after the mains or are the heats that you ran the quickest and most laps.
I have struggled in the past as traction starts to build throughout the day.

So,I am curious...
After you arrive at a track and tune your car to your liking...as traction is coming up during the heats, what are the common adjustments you make to stay competitive and improve the car with the additional traction?
Thanks,
Jon
This is a very good question, sorry I only saw it this late, I will try to be more on point with this thread ! . The setups posted are usualy what I found was best after a race. Usualy the latest setup it my starting point for the next race. Since most races I go to usualy get a good amount of grip at the end of the meeting I do not change my setup much. The one thing I tend to play with a lot is the amount of droop. It will change the way your car react and will reduce or increase weight transfer.

Usualy I will start with a little more uptravel on a green track and see what the car does after 2 runs when I am comfortable with the layout. Then as the traction come up I will change very minor stuff like droop ( little less if car rolls too much) also, I play with the front link for less camber gain if car gets too hard to drive but in general droop and the way you apply tires sauce will be enough. I will sauce let say 75% of front tires. The one thing I see ofter is people making their car stiffer to stop traction rolling but in most case it will only get worst before you are going to work the tires even more and will traction roll even more. Chassis drag is not a bad thing sometimes as it prevent you from traction rolling so usualy when it traction rolls I will make my car softer.

So to answer your question, at a big race I try not to change my car much other than droop and a shim here and there to make the car easier to drive and also tire sause a little less front if the car is too hard to drive and a shorter amount of time in the front if necessary to make the car easier to drive.

Hope this helps
Keven
__________________
Keven Hebert

AE / Reedy / ApexRCproshop
Futaba / BSR tires / Protoform / CR Graphics / Total-RC / ProSpec / Leespeed / 2mm designs
Keven H is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-12-2012, 04:42 PM   #348
Tech Regular
 
cneyedog's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Home of The Daytona 500
Posts: 464
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to cneyedog
Default

Keven, I know on your setups you posted 1.5mm uptravel, What would your recommendation be to begin with on a high bit carpet track in droop #'s front and rear ?

Also, when the bite comes up and you adjust the droop setting, do you adjust the front, back or both to prevent the traction roll ?........

Say I start at 4 front and rear, and the bite comes up and my car starts traction rolling ...... which end and which way should I go on the droop # to help counteract the traction rolling ?

Thanks,

Rich
cneyedog is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-12-2012, 04:43 PM   #349
Tech Fanatic
 
pressure's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Bklyn NY
Posts: 917
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default Great driving

Hey Kevin saw your race in New Rochelle last weekend and your car was dialed. Just a couple of questions . How do you determine your FDR? Do you use or "tune" your motor with different rotors? What type and how do you charge your batteries for a race ? And do you use expo on your steering or throttle? Yor car was on point and your driving was surgical.
__________________
ITS COMPLICATED......................
pressure is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-12-2012, 05:28 PM   #350
Tech Regular
 
Robudda723's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Utah
Posts: 274
Trader Rating: 21 (100%+)
Default

Keven,
What esc settings would you recommend for pan car using the lrp sxx comp v2 and what timing advance on the motor? We are Running on a smaller tight carpet Track. Motor is a Fantom ion3.

Thanks for the help.
Robudda723 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-12-2012, 07:52 PM   #351
Tech Master
 
burgboyz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Da 'Burg
Posts: 1,247
Trader Rating: 70 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Keven H View Post
This is a very good question, sorry I only saw it this late, I will try to be more on point with this thread ! . The setups posted are usualy what I found was best after a race. Usualy the latest setup it my starting point for the next race. Since most races I go to usualy get a good amount of grip at the end of the meeting I do not change my setup much. The one thing I tend to play with a lot is the amount of droop. It will change the way your car react and will reduce or increase weight transfer.

Usualy I will start with a little more uptravel on a green track and see what the car does after 2 runs when I am comfortable with the layout. Then as the traction come up I will change very minor stuff like droop ( little less if car rolls too much) also, I play with the front link for less camber gain if car gets too hard to drive but in general droop and the way you apply tires sauce will be enough. I will sauce let say 75% of front tires. The one thing I see ofter is people making their car stiffer to stop traction rolling but in most case it will only get worst before you are going to work the tires even more and will traction roll even more. Chassis drag is not a bad thing sometimes as it prevent you from traction rolling so usualy when it traction rolls I will make my car softer.

So to answer your question, at a big race I try not to change my car much other than droop and a shim here and there to make the car easier to drive and also tire sause a little less front if the car is too hard to drive and a shorter amount of time in the front if necessary to make the car easier to drive.

Hope this helps
Keven
Thanks for the reply. Better late than never!
It was good to hear/confirm that it can be as simple as that. As long as the car is set up properly/close to begin with of course.

I have been concentrating on shims, shock angles, springs, oil, and decreasing sauce on fronts. I will start paying more attention to small droop changes on my practice nights. Drilling my shock caps and swapping out the pistons and bladders made a big improvement.

Please keep posting your setups. Testing the subtle nuances between setups keeps me going back to the track!

Next chapter...Roll Center
__________________
Got Droop???
Speed Passion....Speed Power....Serpent America/Desoto Racing.
burgboyz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-13-2012, 08:14 AM   #352
Tech Fanatic
 
Infinite 12th's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: California
Posts: 877
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

What does it mean on your IIC 12th setup when you wrote 2mm on top upper arm and what brand 20K do run on kingpins

Also what product do you use for diff oil in gear diff on your TC car and maybe a starting point for asphalt or carpet for that gear diff oil

Thank u
__________________
12th scale - The Jedi class...
Infinite 12th is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-13-2012, 10:13 AM   #353
Tech Champion
 
DARKSIDE's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Nashville-Memphis
Posts: 8,133
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

do ceramic bearings make that big differenc in VTA or 17.5 blinky?
__________________
Myron "BATTMAN" Kinnard
Team Associated/Reedy Powered/PROTOform
Final On-Road Race
Summit RC Raceway June 17th
Ft. Wayne IN
DARKSIDE is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 01-13-2012, 02:01 PM   #354
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 286
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by cneyedog View Post
Keven, I know on your setups you posted 1.5mm uptravel, What would your recommendation be to begin with on a high bit carpet track in droop #'s front and rear ?

Also, when the bite comes up and you adjust the droop setting, do you adjust the front, back or both to prevent the traction roll ?........

Say I start at 4 front and rear, and the bite comes up and my car starts traction rolling ...... which end and which way should I go on the droop # to help counteract the traction rolling ?

Thanks,

Rich
I usualy start at 5 rear and 6 front on most track and tune from there ! on high bite I usualy end up on 6 rear and 7 front. I also use droop to change the balance of the car in the turns. For exemple when the car gets loose mid corner I take some out of the rear to prevent rear weight to transfer over the front. So to help traction roll you want to go to a higher number on the ae gauge or less uptravel in other words. Hope this helps

Quote:
Originally Posted by pressure View Post
Hey Kevin saw your race in New Rochelle last weekend and your car was dialed. Just a couple of questions . How do you determine your FDR? Do you use or "tune" your motor with different rotors? What type and how do you charge your batteries for a race ? And do you use expo on your steering or throttle? Yor car was on point and your driving was surgical.
I usualy run mod so I don,t play much with FDR but when running blinky, when you find a setup you like you should not need to change much from tract to track other than a tooth or 2. As for timing I was running 45 and ran stock rotor with 4.0 in New Rochelle but since I only get to run 17.5 blinky 2-3 times a year I don't get to play much with it. As for Expo I run anywhere from 0 to minus 10 depending on the track and how the car feels.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Robudda723 View Post
Keven,
What esc settings would you recommend for pan car using the lrp sxx comp v2 and what timing advance on the motor? We are Running on a smaller tight carpet Track. Motor is a Fantom ion3.


Thanks for the help.
I am not sure what the fantom is based on but I assume it is based of a trinity and I have never ran 17.5 in 1/12 so my guess could be off here. But here is what I think is a good place to start : 0/10/10/2 and work from there.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Infinite 12th View Post
What does it mean on your IIC 12th setup when you wrote 2mm on top upper arm and what brand 20K do run on kingpins

Also what product do you use for diff oil in gear diff on your TC car and maybe a starting point for asphalt or carpet for that gear diff oil

Thank u
The 2mm on top arm means that there is 2mm in between bulkhead and the reactive castor block so that gives you a longer top arm.

As for the gear diff We run anywhere from 27.5-45 wt shock oil. I tend to like my car on the lighter side. Next time I run on asphalt I will start with 27.5. But that is in AE gear diff only. Spec R and yokomo will be different to achieve the same feeling


Quote:
Originally Posted by DARKSIDE View Post
do ceramic bearings make that big differenc in VTA or 17.5 blinky?
Ceramic Bearing are nice beacause they last quite a bit longer but it will not really had any performance gain over a still good working regular bearing ! I think the best thing to do is to use ceramic in the drive line, (diff bearing and layshaft) and those should last a season !
__________________
Keven Hebert

AE / Reedy / ApexRCproshop
Futaba / BSR tires / Protoform / CR Graphics / Total-RC / ProSpec / Leespeed / 2mm designs
Keven H is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-13-2012, 03:33 PM   #355
Tech Regular
 
Robudda723's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Utah
Posts: 274
Trader Rating: 21 (100%+)
Default

My bad. It is actually a fantom 10.5 not a 17.5.

Thanks again
Rob
Robudda723 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-13-2012, 03:47 PM   #356
Tech Fanatic
 
Infinite 12th's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: California
Posts: 877
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Thanks Kevin

One more question please

Is there track/environment to run the AE gear diff in front

If not how come?

If so what oil would you start off with there?

Thank you
__________________
12th scale - The Jedi class...
Infinite 12th is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-14-2012, 08:56 AM   #357
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 286
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Robudda723 View Post
My bad. It is actually a fantom 10.5 not a 17.5.

Thanks again
Rob
OK sorry I wasnt sure. I would think with a 10.5 I would start with 0/10/6/2 and around 35/80 for gear and mild on timing and see from there. Once again it is just a guess because I have not run the class but I think it is a safe place to start. hope this helps

Quote:
Originally Posted by Infinite 12th View Post
Thanks Kevin

One more question please

Is there track/environment to run the AE gear diff in front

If not how come?

If so what oil would you start off with there?

Thank you
There is certain track a gear diff feels good ! to me on tight and technical track the car gets in the turn better with a gear diff but on bigger track sweeping corner I like the spool better. Lately I have been going back and forth with both. The best thing to do is to use putty in the diff because it is the stiffest. If you want to use oil you want to use 500 000 ! but then when it warms up it gets thinner and chan ges througout the run.
__________________
Keven Hebert

AE / Reedy / ApexRCproshop
Futaba / BSR tires / Protoform / CR Graphics / Total-RC / ProSpec / Leespeed / 2mm designs
Keven H is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-14-2012, 09:24 AM   #358
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 1,117
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Keven, have you done any testing with 12R5.2 inline chassis, but with the battery in the standard transverse position? If so, how did you like it?
JamesL_71 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-14-2012, 09:27 AM   #359
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 286
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesL_71 View Post
Keven, have you done any testing with 12R5.2 inline chassis, but with the battery in the standard transverse position? If so, how did you like it?
HI James,

I have not be able to get to it but I have thought abouth it several time. From past experience I think the battery in the standard position will have a little more steering but will be a little less stable but I could be mistaken but if you do please let me know how it works for you !
__________________
Keven Hebert

AE / Reedy / ApexRCproshop
Futaba / BSR tires / Protoform / CR Graphics / Total-RC / ProSpec / Leespeed / 2mm designs
Keven H is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-14-2012, 10:14 AM   #360
Tech Fanatic
 
Infinite 12th's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: California
Posts: 877
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Keven H View Post
There is certain track a gear diff feels good ! to me on tight and technical track the car gets in the turn better with a gear diff but on bigger track sweeping corner I like the spool better. Lately I have been going back and forth with both. The best thing to do is to use putty in the diff because it is the stiffest. If you want to use oil you want to use 500 000 ! but then when it warms up it gets thinner and chan ges througout the run.
I can't find the xceed putty diff on the net but would this work fine

http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ...+putty&pg_no=1

Anyone have the xceed link for the putty?

Or just get the artist kneaded rubber ...lol



Thanks
__________________
12th scale - The Jedi class...
Infinite 12th is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 12:08 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net