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Old 10-19-2011, 06:52 PM   #331
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i feel like i should say something. just don't know what.

JB

P.s. thanks chicky
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Old 10-19-2011, 07:20 PM   #332
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Originally Posted by Keven H View Post
Hi,

1-The 2mm on top arm means the upper arm is shimmed 2mm to get a longer upper arm.

2- the reason why I run the stock spec is more of a feel thing, I like the feeling of it on the down side is you dont have much setup window since we pretty much can only run it on one. I ran stock spec with 4.0 STD wind with 12.5 works rotor correct.

3- if I was to go run at Norcal, I would start with the same setup with lighter oil on side and center, probably 20 side and 25 center and would use a blue center spring and green side ! thats about it I think.
Ok thank you

I'm just trying to talk to a driver that used same esc for 12th mod and 12th 13.5/17.5 as to not have to have two cars or two speedos

In getting back into 12th and my last item to buy is a speedo and I'm just thinking ahead if I go to big race and I want to race mod and .5 class

This is just an speedo question not about tires or anything else that might change from class to class

Do you remember any LRP top racers that we're competative with same speedo in mod and .5 classes?

Thanks again
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Old 10-19-2011, 08:24 PM   #333
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Originally Posted by JamesL_71 View Post
Looking at your IIC SuperStock setup, you seem to be running a much lower front rollcenter(including a bit of antidive) than rear.

Any tips for where to start with the arm mounts for a medium bite/dusty carpet track?

Maybe 3A/0B front and 1B/1B rear?
Yes I ran a much higher rear roll center, we were also running a good amount of camber gain in the rear. If I was to run on a medium bite track I would try the same setup with a little bit more droop ! probably 1mm more of uptravel. If the setup has too much rotation, then dropping the rear roll center might helpt to lock the rear end down !

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Originally Posted by Infinite 12th View Post
Ok thank you

I'm just trying to talk to a driver that used same esc for 12th mod and 12th 13.5/17.5 as to not have to have two cars or two speedos

In getting back into 12th and my last item to buy is a speedo and I'm just thinking ahead if I go to big race and I want to race mod and .5 class

This is just an speedo question not about tires or anything else that might change from class to class

Do you remember any LRP top racers that we're competative with same speedo in mod and .5 classes?

Thanks again
I am not sure of anyone who ran the same esc ! the problem is has you mentionned, the tire choice might differ and also changing the spur gear motor and everything might be a lot more work then just having 2 cars even radio setting might be slightly different.
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Old 10-19-2011, 08:39 PM   #334
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Originally Posted by Keven H View Post
I am not sure of anyone who ran the same esc ! the problem is has you mentionned, the tire choice might differ and also changing the spur gear motor and everything might be a lot more work then just having 2 cars even radio setting might be slightly different.
Thanks I'm curious that Mike Blackstock did well in both 12th classes mod and 13.5 and did he have two cars as I think he ran Tekin esc?

I will go ask in the Tekin thread

Thanks for your time Keven

Good luck in your racing
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Old 11-01-2011, 04:11 AM   #335
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Have some problems with my TC6 on a mid-high traction carpet. On two places it's bumpy. At the entry of corners I have lack of steering and at the exit chassis roll (car flips when throttle applied) I was running a 13.5T motor and Levanens set-up from Warsaw only the ride height was 5,5mm front 6,0mm rear because otherwise the car bottom's out. When I add some steering the car had even more tendency to flip bit the steering at the entry was better.

It would be nice to know in witch direction to work ...

Thanks for help, Lojz
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Old 11-01-2011, 09:29 PM   #336
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Hey Kevin,
Why drill your shock caps?
How does it improve the "feel"?

Dave.
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Old 11-03-2011, 02:42 PM   #337
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Originally Posted by Geberit View Post
Have some problems with my TC6 on a mid-high traction carpet. On two places it's bumpy. At the entry of corners I have lack of steering and at the exit chassis roll (car flips when throttle applied) I was running a 13.5T motor and Levanens set-up from Warsaw only the ride height was 5,5mm front 6,0mm rear because otherwise the car bottom's out. When I add some steering the car had even more tendency to flip bit the steering at the entry was better.

It would be nice to know in witch direction to work ...

Thanks for help, Lojz
Hi, the main thing I would do is try to lower the ride height. A car that bottom out is not always a bad thing, sometimes it can help handling. The other thing I would try is reducing the droop ! going to around 1.5mm uptravel all around. If that is not enough, the other thing I would try is moving your front and rear shock in on the tower 1 hole and see what that does. Hope this helps Keep me posted on if it helped any, if not we will go some other route !


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Hey Kevin,
Why drill your shock caps?
How does it improve the "feel"?

Dave.
Lately I have been running my shock cap std not drill. the main difference when I drilled the cap was that it was easier to build a dead shock with no rebound. Lately I have been running about 25% rebound pretty much everywhere.
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Old 11-03-2011, 05:13 PM   #338
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Keven: I am running one of your older set ups on my car with some changes, #1 roll centers in hole B all the way around (no anti-dive in front), short link in rear, long in the front, reflex 12.5 springs in rear & 13.5 in front, same oil & pistons as u, with shock caps drilled, black sway bars f & r, spool in front, gear diff in rear w/ 1,000 wt (spec r), about 2mm of up travel front & rear, 4 degree C-hubs w/ flipped spindles, spaced the wheels out a bit with spacers on the axles. Running the P37r lightweight body. 2 degrees camber f & r. I am running a fairly high drag brake as well. Running 17.5 no boost on a med to higher bite carpet track with some bumps.

Now, my question. The car has a high speed push and is difficult to drive from point to point, it feels like the car is taking too long to recover from turn to turn, which can get the car "snappy" with the tail stepping out. I noticed your iic set up has higher roll centers and stiffer springs, is that your new starting point or was the traction different than the norm? Any help is appreciated. Thx!
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Old 11-06-2011, 07:55 PM   #339
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Wanted to ask a driving style question, in regards to carpet and asphalt.

Do you use push brake on carpet? How about asphalt? Is it more of a track dependent thing for you... or do you have a preferred style of driving that you try to stick with all the time?
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Old 11-13-2011, 12:52 AM   #340
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Originally Posted by Keven H View Post
Hi, the main thing I would do is try to lower the ride height. A car that bottom out is not always a bad thing, sometimes it can help handling. The other thing I would try is reducing the droop ! going to around 1.5mm uptravel all around. If that is not enough, the other thing I would try is moving your front and rear shock in on the tower 1 hole and see what that does. Hope this helps Keep me posted on if it helped any, if not we will go some other route !
Just lowering the ride height made a huge difference! I set front 5,2mm rear 5,2mm and the car didn't flip any more. I drove down stops front 7 rear 6. How do you set and measure up travel? With shock length?? I also tried one whole in on both shocks this gave a little more smooth feeling which was good. Using silver springs front and rear, pistons 1;1;1,5 shock oil front 50wt rear 35wt.

Before this changes the car was really uncomfortable and hardly controllable now I can push it without being nervous all the time to flip it. Best time 0.4s faster than the last time.

I have another question regarding Tyre preparation. We are using the LRP CPX carpet tires. They seem to work best after 3-4 runs. When I go to a race I have only one run before the qualifying start. OK I don't use a brand new tire for the race but nevertheless it seems like the tire needs to get soaked with tire additive to some point so it can get to its potential. Should I try to heat them for the first run? Do you have any suggestions on how to prepare tires (new or used) for the carpet.

Thanks, Lojz
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Old 11-13-2011, 08:48 PM   #341
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Congrats Kevin
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Old 11-16-2011, 09:23 AM   #342
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Originally Posted by Murray View Post
Keven: I am running one of your older set ups on my car with some changes, #1 roll centers in hole B all the way around (no anti-dive in front), short link in rear, long in the front, reflex 12.5 springs in rear & 13.5 in front, same oil & pistons as u, with shock caps drilled, black sway bars f & r, spool in front, gear diff in rear w/ 1,000 wt (spec r), about 2mm of up travel front & rear, 4 degree C-hubs w/ flipped spindles, spaced the wheels out a bit with spacers on the axles. Running the P37r lightweight body. 2 degrees camber f & r. I am running a fairly high drag brake as well. Running 17.5 no boost on a med to higher bite carpet track with some bumps.

Now, my question. The car has a high speed push and is difficult to drive from point to point, it feels like the car is taking too long to recover from turn to turn, which can get the car "snappy" with the tail stepping out. I noticed your iic set up has higher roll centers and stiffer springs, is that your new starting point or was the traction different than the norm? Any help is appreciated. Thx!
Hi,

Sorry about the late reply, I think your setup could use a stiffer spring. I have been running a little stiffer lately for that reason, I think running stiffer will help change direction quicker and also finishes the turn better. When running to soft the car usualy drag the nose and pick up a push. First thing I would do is go to let say 16.5 front and 15.5 rear and see how it goes from there.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesL_71 View Post
Wanted to ask a driving style question, in regards to carpet and asphalt.

Do you use push brake on carpet? How about asphalt? Is it more of a track dependent thing for you... or do you have a preferred style of driving that you try to stick with all the time?
Hi James,

I am known to use a lot of push brake more than many drivers but I think this is more of a driving style, I usualy shoot from point to point but then again I am not sure if this is the best way but it is how I have been driving for quite some time so it is hard to change driving style ! I think drag brake is really up to drivers preference, I like to use a little bit but one thing you have to be carefull with is that sometimes people use drag brake as a setup patch when the car does not get in the corner people use drag brake but I like to play with the car first and than as a last resource I will use drag brake.On asphalt I try to not use as much drag brake to not overheat the front tires tho.

Hope this helps.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Geberit View Post
Just lowering the ride height made a huge difference! I set front 5,2mm rear 5,2mm and the car didn't flip any more. I drove down stops front 7 rear 6. How do you set and measure up travel? With shock length?? I also tried one whole in on both shocks this gave a little more smooth feeling which was good. Using silver springs front and rear, pistons 1;1;1,5 shock oil front 50wt rear 35wt.

Before this changes the car was really uncomfortable and hardly controllable now I can push it without being nervous all the time to flip it. Best time 0.4s faster than the last time.

I have another question regarding Tyre preparation. We are using the LRP CPX carpet tires. They seem to work best after 3-4 runs. When I go to a race I have only one run before the qualifying start. OK I don't use a brand new tire for the race but nevertheless it seems like the tire needs to get soaked with tire additive to some point so it can get to its potential. Should I try to heat them for the first run? Do you have any suggestions on how to prepare tires (new or used) for the carpet.

Thanks, Lojz
Hi, I think 1 or 2 run should be enough for the tires to get back to life. usualy I will try and soak them for a little longer the first run out and will do a little longer in the rear like 20 min rear and 10 min front.Glad your car is getting better always good to hear

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Originally Posted by goin2drt View Post
Congrats Kevin
Thank you ! see you at some point early december at WC
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Old 12-15-2011, 09:08 PM   #343
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Hello Kevin.
I must believe that most of your posted setups are after the mains or are the heats that you ran the quickest and most laps.
I have struggled in the past as traction starts to build throughout the day.

So,I am curious...
After you arrive at a track and tune your car to your liking...as traction is coming up during the heats, what are the common adjustments you make to stay competitive and improve the car with the additional traction?
Thanks,
Jon
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Old 12-16-2011, 12:22 PM   #344
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Hello Kevin.
I must believe that most of your posted setups are after the mains or are the heats that you ran the quickest and most laps.
I have struggled in the past as traction starts to build throughout the day.

So,I am curious...
After you arrive at a track and tune your car to your liking...as traction is coming up during the heats, what are the common adjustments you make to stay competitive and improve the car with the additional traction?
Thanks,
Jon
+1 Great question.
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Old 12-16-2011, 03:54 PM   #345
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+1 Great question.
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