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Old 05-11-2011, 03:40 AM   #226
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This part is actually designed as a rear bumper and is not a modified tower. It should be released for sale at some point.
In TC6 Thread.
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Old 05-11-2011, 06:02 AM   #227
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Hey Kevin, what would be a good set-up for 17.5 blinky on low to medium grip asphalt?

Last edited by MUDVAYNE; 05-11-2011 at 06:17 AM.
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Old 05-11-2011, 09:57 AM   #228
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bought a second hand tc6 in great shape but Im struggling to get any droop!! everything looks good top shock is in 5th hole in,outer hole on bottom,ride height is 5.5 in rear 5 in front,ball cups are screwed out 3 turns on bottom,running 2 dot holders front and rear???? still no droop?? rubber tire
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Old 05-11-2011, 10:27 AM   #229
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I have to mesure them again! I beleive it is 63.7mm
My guess - shock lenght, also 2 dot if on B won't help.
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Old 05-11-2011, 10:41 AM   #230
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Originally Posted by mickrcarver View Post
bought a second hand tc6 in great shape but Im struggling to get any droop!! everything looks good top shock is in 5th hole in,outer hole on bottom,ride height is 5.5 in rear 5 in front,ball cups are screwed out 3 turns on bottom,running 2 dot holders front and rear???? still no droop?? rubber tire

Check if there isn't any spacer inside the shock....
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Old 05-11-2011, 11:57 AM   #231
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2 dot on b and from eyelet to ball cup mount 56mm, 67 from end to end,still lost lol
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Old 05-11-2011, 01:42 PM   #232
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Originally Posted by mickrcarver View Post
bought a second hand tc6 in great shape but Im struggling to get any droop!! everything looks good top shock is in 5th hole in,outer hole on bottom,ride height is 5.5 in rear 5 in front,ball cups are screwed out 3 turns on bottom,running 2 dot holders front and rear???? still no droop?? rubber tire

This might be stupid, but if you bought a 2nd hand TC6, have you checked to make sure that all the parts are stock. The original owner might have used something that looks similar but might be messing something up. It's a longshot but worth looking into if all else fails.

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Old 05-11-2011, 02:58 PM   #233
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Originally Posted by corallyman View Post
This misght be stupid, but if you bought a 2nd hand TC6, have you checked to make sure that all the parts are stock. They might have used something that looks similar but might be messing something up. It's a longshot but worth looking into if all else fails.

Steve
gonna check,but i think the parts are all correct,also if I wanted the most traction on low grip asphalt would i use the 0 mounts on b position or the 3 dot roll centers?
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Old 05-15-2011, 01:02 PM   #234
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Keven,

What oil will you be running in your gear diff when you get to NorCal hobbies for the Reedy? Putting my car together now and could use a good starting point.

-Martin
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Old 05-15-2011, 03:14 PM   #235
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I'm about ready to start building my new tc6, and I was wondering if I should sand and glue the edges of the chassis or not? I haven't seen much of anyone doing it lately, so I thought I would ask. Thanks.

Ken
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Old 05-15-2011, 04:15 PM   #236
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Default TC5R Question

Brand new to the hobby. I just purchased a TC5R from the clearance section of AE website. Basically I just wanted something to build without spending a lot of money. I'm looking for a Body and some wheels and tires. Do I need a 190MM or a 200mm body? Can you point me in the right direction for some good sources? I'm a crappy painter and would happily pay for a painted body.
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Old 05-15-2011, 10:24 PM   #237
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Originally Posted by GWD View Post
Brand new to the hobby. I just purchased a TC5R from the clearance section of AE website. Basically I just wanted something to build without spending a lot of money. I'm looking for a Body and some wheels and tires. Do I need a 190MM or a 200mm body? Can you point me in the right direction for some good sources? I'm a crappy painter and would happily pay for a painted body.
190
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Old 05-16-2011, 12:24 PM   #238
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That's cool!

Just a couple of questions about your latest tc6's setup: why were you running so wide in the front? (3.5mm shims) What's the difference in using a stiffer spring in the inner hole of the arm instead of a softer spring in the outer hole?

The main reason why I ran my car that wide was to gain stability ! Unfortunately I could not just make the car wider, it requires some more setup changes. This setup was actually on Sean Cochrans car and after trying it I decided to go with it and tweak it to what I wanted. When I went at that track few weeks ago, I had 2 cars, the one I run everywhere and another car I wanted to test on and both cars had about the same amount of steering but the new setup was more stable and easier to drive.
Also going in on the arm with a thick dampening and a stiffer spring help the car quite a bit mid corner. It had more steering in the middle but wasnt so nervous going in.

Thanks!
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Originally Posted by goin2drt View Post
Kevin,

When you measure the droop on your WCRC set up at what points do you measure. Meaning from where to where is the 7mm.

Thanks.
Hi Todd,

I usualy measure droop with uptravel ! I get the car ready to go and then I usualy start at 1.5mm uptravel front and 2.5mm rear. Ont he setup sheet it uses a droop gauge from associated. that measure should be taken right under the screw of the outer hinge pin ! at the bottom of the arm.


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Originally Posted by Geberit View Post
Hi K.

I see you nad Juho have a carbon bumper at the back some shock tower!?

From which car is it?

Regards
This part was made for TC6. IT is called a rear bumper, it is to prevent body tuck and rear end damage under a big crash ! I am not sure if it has been made to production on not but if no I am sure you can use a rear tower and make something up with it.

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Originally Posted by MUDVAYNE View Post
Hey Kevin, what would be a good set-up for 17.5 blinky on low to medium grip asphalt?
Hi,

I am pretty sure the setup from xray challenge posted on AE's website will be a very good starting point. I would give it a shot

Quote:
Originally Posted by StickyFingaz View Post
Keven,

What oil will you be running in your gear diff when you get to NorCal hobbies for the Reedy? Putting my car together now and could use a good starting point.

-Martin
Hi Martin,

I have been running my gear diff for quite some times now without rebuilding it. Last time I built it it was with 1000 but it leaked a lot since then so it is a lot close to 50wt now ! On asphlat 50wt seems to be a good starting point. it seems to make the car rotate very good.

Hope this helps

Quote:
Originally Posted by MUDVAYNE View Post
I'm about ready to start building my new tc6, and I was wondering if I should sand and glue the edges of the chassis or not? I haven't seen much of anyone doing it lately, so I thought I would ask. Thanks.

Ken
Hi Ken,

Lately I havent been gluing mine ! I just round the edge with sand paper. The front bumper does protect the chassis so I did not see much need for it.


Quote:
Originally Posted by GWD View Post
Brand new to the hobby. I just purchased a TC5R from the clearance section of AE website. Basically I just wanted something to build without spending a lot of money. I'm looking for a Body and some wheels and tires. Do I need a 190MM or a 200mm body? Can you point me in the right direction for some good sources? I'm a crappy painter and would happily pay for a painted body.

Hi,

you will need a 190mm. Proline/protoform has a big selectrion to choose from ! their website is www.pro-lineracing.com . For tires there are a lot of tires you can chose from but it all depends on what type of surface you want to run on.
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Old 05-16-2011, 04:11 PM   #239
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Dialed! Thanks for both answers Kevin.
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Old 05-23-2011, 11:30 AM   #240
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Kevin, whats your current setup at the front;
gear diff or spool? if gear, what oil are you using?

also, you have said previously if you went front diff that you would use the standard cvd's. What is wrong with using the xrays ecs with a front diff?
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