Team Corally RDX Touring Car
#8971
Originally Posted by syndr0me
Ceramic bearings are a fragile joke. Save your money and buy cheap bearings. Replace the ones that go bad without a second thought.
5x9x3 = http://www.avidrc.com/?action=item&id=32
10x15x4 = http://www.avidrc.com/?action=item&id=24
5x9x3 = http://www.avidrc.com/?action=item&id=32
10x15x4 = http://www.avidrc.com/?action=item&id=24
just my .02
#8972
Tech Initiate
Hello all, just a few comments concerning the car pushing mid corner comments. By no means am I saying your wrong, just from the way i currently understand it. Feel free to explain further.
Ok the cars pushing mid corner, the car pushes because the the front isnt getting enough traction. To rectify this with droop, I would want to try and keep as much weight on the front of the car. To do this I'd reduce the front droop. ( if anyone is un familiar with droop, i say reduce the front droop meaning remove the amount of downward travel) So my removing the droop the nose of the car wont be able to lift, trying to keep the weight forward. And I would do the opposite on the rear. I'd increase the rear droop to try and lift the rear in aid to plant the front.
Caster is very relevant to what kind of track your running, big high speed tracks generally like more caster. If your pushing problem is on a small tight track I wouldnt increase the caster. Small caster angles will provide more steering in low speed corners, with less initial turn in.
I would remove droop from the rear. I guess I would need to know more about the setup.
Also try 6 deg of caster too. That always helps the front end bite harder in the middle and exit of the corner.
#8973
I always found that at least for stock foam droop mattered more side to side than front to back since there is alot more weight transfer going in that direction. So more front droop, espically mid corenr will give you more bite, and the amount of rear droop basically sets at what part of the corner you want your car to really turn.
#8974
I've noticed on a few of the setups on the Corally page that the drivers are using the Associated droop gauge. I don't have access to one, so does anyone know how the numbers on the Associated gauge compare to the Hudy gauge? (i.e. 3 on the associated = ?? on the Hudy)
Thanks
Thanks
#8975
Tech Master
iTrader: (14)
Originally Posted by Ted B.
I've noticed on a few of the setups on the Corally page that the drivers are using the Associated droop gauge. I don't have access to one, so does anyone know how the numbers on the Associated gauge compare to the Hudy gauge? (i.e. 3 on the associated = ?? on the Hudy)
Thanks
Thanks
#8976
Tech Adept
Corraly gas car
Originally Posted by Jeff Brown
We will always help out. We just want to promote the local hobby shops since they provide the places to race.
Jeff
Jeff
That would be cool.
#8977
Originally Posted by duckman996
Both are in mm .... both are the same measurements.
#8978
Tech Initiate
I'm not sure about others but the tm droop gauge starts at -2!
#8979
Tech Lord
iTrader: (32)
I consulted my XXX-Main book last night after thinking through the droop suggestion and found the same thing you did. I went to 1.5mm (up) in the front and 2mm in the rear, and had a much better time with corner exit.
We've got a pretty tight track, so I may give 4 degrees a try next week to see how that feels.
We've got a pretty tight track, so I may give 4 degrees a try next week to see how that feels.
#8980
Originally Posted by 8800
Ok the cars pushing mid corner, the car pushes because the the front isnt getting enough traction. To rectify this with droop, I would want to try and keep as much weight on the front of the car. To do this I'd reduce the front droop. ( if anyone is un familiar with droop, i say reduce the front droop meaning remove the amount of downward travel) So my removing the droop the nose of the car wont be able to lift, trying to keep the weight forward. And I would do the opposite on the rear. I'd increase the rear droop to try and lift the rear in aid to plant the front.
Originally Posted by 8800
Caster is very relevant to what kind of track your running, big high speed tracks generally like more caster. If your pushing problem is on a small tight track I wouldnt increase the caster. Small caster angles will provide more steering in low speed corners, with less initial turn in.
Jeff
#8982
Belt flipping
Ok I have posted on this subject before, but Its getting to the point that I'm thinking about switching cars because of it.
Wondering if people have run into the problem of the front belt flipping all the time?
I have tried, No belt tensioner, belt tension in the forward hole, belt tensioner in the middle hole. I put a new belt after every day of racing(expensive!!!) made sure diffs weere in the right direction. I have check to make sure its not hitting my pinion or my battery(Its close to my battery, but still not touching) everything!
and to know avail. I don't even have to hit hard, I can almost be sure that If I hit one pipe or bump a car I have a about a 1 in 3 chance of it flipping. If I do get slammed into a pipe then I can almost count on it. Once it does, my speeds goes to crap I can tell immediately what happened and I just pull the car. So unless I run a almost clean run, I don't finish
Raced last night at our club race with a brand new belt, it flipped, so I put on the tensioner, the problem with the tensioner is that the belt always seems to slide to the outside of the tensioner so its not even in the groove anymore. It doesn't scrub as much speed, but it still is noticable.
Any suggestions? I love the car and dont want to get a different one, but If I can't figure out the problem I'm going to have to.
Woody
Wondering if people have run into the problem of the front belt flipping all the time?
I have tried, No belt tensioner, belt tension in the forward hole, belt tensioner in the middle hole. I put a new belt after every day of racing(expensive!!!) made sure diffs weere in the right direction. I have check to make sure its not hitting my pinion or my battery(Its close to my battery, but still not touching) everything!
and to know avail. I don't even have to hit hard, I can almost be sure that If I hit one pipe or bump a car I have a about a 1 in 3 chance of it flipping. If I do get slammed into a pipe then I can almost count on it. Once it does, my speeds goes to crap I can tell immediately what happened and I just pull the car. So unless I run a almost clean run, I don't finish
Raced last night at our club race with a brand new belt, it flipped, so I put on the tensioner, the problem with the tensioner is that the belt always seems to slide to the outside of the tensioner so its not even in the groove anymore. It doesn't scrub as much speed, but it still is noticable.
Any suggestions? I love the car and dont want to get a different one, but If I can't figure out the problem I'm going to have to.
Woody
#8983
Tech Champion
iTrader: (38)
Originally Posted by RC_Woody
Ok I have posted on this subject before, but Its getting to the point that I'm thinking about switching cars because of it.
Wondering if people have run into the problem of the front belt flipping all the time?
I have tried, No belt tensioner, belt tension in the forward hole, belt tensioner in the middle hole. I put a new belt after every day of racing(expensive!!!) made sure diffs weere in the right direction. I have check to make sure its not hitting my pinion or my battery(Its close to my battery, but still not touching) everything!
and to know avail. I don't even have to hit hard, I can almost be sure that If I hit one pipe or bump a car I have a about a 1 in 3 chance of it flipping. If I do get slammed into a pipe then I can almost count on it. Once it does, my speeds goes to crap I can tell immediately what happened and I just pull the car. So unless I run a almost clean run, I don't finish
Raced last night at our club race with a brand new belt, it flipped, so I put on the tensioner, the problem with the tensioner is that the belt always seems to slide to the outside of the tensioner so its not even in the groove anymore. It doesn't scrub as much speed, but it still is noticable.
Any suggestions? I love the car and dont want to get a different one, but If I can't figure out the problem I'm going to have to.
Woody
Wondering if people have run into the problem of the front belt flipping all the time?
I have tried, No belt tensioner, belt tension in the forward hole, belt tensioner in the middle hole. I put a new belt after every day of racing(expensive!!!) made sure diffs weere in the right direction. I have check to make sure its not hitting my pinion or my battery(Its close to my battery, but still not touching) everything!
and to know avail. I don't even have to hit hard, I can almost be sure that If I hit one pipe or bump a car I have a about a 1 in 3 chance of it flipping. If I do get slammed into a pipe then I can almost count on it. Once it does, my speeds goes to crap I can tell immediately what happened and I just pull the car. So unless I run a almost clean run, I don't finish
Raced last night at our club race with a brand new belt, it flipped, so I put on the tensioner, the problem with the tensioner is that the belt always seems to slide to the outside of the tensioner so its not even in the groove anymore. It doesn't scrub as much speed, but it still is noticable.
Any suggestions? I love the car and dont want to get a different one, but If I can't figure out the problem I'm going to have to.
Woody
#8984
I know you said you checked to make sure sure the diffs were in the right direction, but it really sounds like they are the wrong direction which would want to make the belts slide off the tensioner and might cause the flip. But like what was said post a pic of it and maybe someone will be able to see what the problem is.
#8985
Tech Lord
iTrader: (32)
If any of you foam/brushless guys are feeling bored in early December, we're going to host a race with a SS4300/LiPo class. KC is right in the middle, so it's close to everybody. :-)
http://www.fastlanehobby.com/flyers/nats2006.pdf
http://www.fastlanehobby.com/flyers/nats2006.pdf