Team Corally RDX Touring Car
08-28-2006, 03:48 AM
#8656
Tech Initiate
Really confused about what hop ups i need to buy to get my car right, i will be racing on aspalt most and carpet midweek as a bit of practice so i dont want to spend too much for the stuff for carpet racing. i have the uk edition with 2.9 chassis( i think) going insane and just want to get racing so any help will be very much appreciated!!!
08-28-2006, 04:21 AM
#8657
RDX out of box is fast everywhere asphalt,carpet rubber,carpet foam!! i ran the rdx ul version but whit a diff out of box and i can compete whit the top guns at my club!! so the RDX is the SHITTTTT!!!!! lol
out of box and its fast!! already jsut take the time whit the car to understand it do litlte tunning there and there !! and you will be dialed!!!
Later!!
out of box and its fast!! already jsut take the time whit the car to understand it do litlte tunning there and there !! and you will be dialed!!!
Later!!
08-28-2006, 04:42 AM
#8658
Tech Initiate
trouble is if im trying to copy a set up sheet they all include optionl extras, i dont mind buying them for aspalt but just want to compramise a bit for the carpet
08-28-2006, 04:51 AM
#8659
I have run RDX new from box over one year, and there is still many set ups to try, afther a year, it is true that with some hop ups you can be faster or the car more esay to drive, but the hop ups is to make the set up better for you and your driving style.
Afther all, what i want to say is that RDX is a good car, but if your car doesn´t go that fast as other RDX to save time, you may try them set up first.
Afther all, what i want to say is that RDX is a good car, but if your car doesn´t go that fast as other RDX to save time, you may try them set up first.
08-28-2006, 07:49 AM
#8660
Tech Fanatic
Originally Posted by syndr0me
The setups between foam and rubber are pretty significantly different. I can't really think of one that will let you switch back and forth easily without seriously compromising performance of one or the other. Everybody I've ever seen that races both classes has two cars, and then sometimes a third one if they race asphalt too.
You can get a used RDX for cheap if you look around. I've seen them go for under $250 with a good collection of parts. It works out well for having spares on hand, and can give you a second car for another class.
You can get a used RDX for cheap if you look around. I've seen them go for under $250 with a good collection of parts. It works out well for having spares on hand, and can give you a second car for another class.
Thanks
08-28-2006, 10:14 AM
#8661
I dont know what some of these guys are talking about but you can most definatley run with minimal changes and make the car work on both surfaces. The only parts I changed from asphalt to carpet was the spool to a diff and the springs . I changed the setup some but no other parts and was plenty fast on both surfaces. You dont absolutley need all the option parts such as low roll blocks and stuff unless you want them or plan on running at the highest level of competition and traction like the IIC. If you want to know what I did to make my asphalt car a good carpet car with minimal spending shoot me a pm.
08-28-2006, 11:30 AM
#8662
Didn't someone win one of the big races last year with a box stock carpet spec kit? Maybe that setup should be posted more prominently on the web site. It's true that most of the setups have just about every option part imaginable on them. It couldn't hurt to put a few up that are extremely close to the stock kits so people don't feel like they have to buy all the upgrades. Plus, like someone else said, those setups are mostly for high-traction big races, and may not transfer so well to clubs.
I personally have downgraded a bit, and gotten rid of the offset bulkhead and 4mm chassis (for now). I'm basically running Brian McGreevy's setup from the Novak race, and have found it to be very smooth, easy to drive and plenty fast. It's about as close to a "kit" setup as I can find, though it still makes use of a decent number of option parts.
http://www.corallyusa.com/2005/setups/RDXnovakBRIAN.pdf
I personally have downgraded a bit, and gotten rid of the offset bulkhead and 4mm chassis (for now). I'm basically running Brian McGreevy's setup from the Novak race, and have found it to be very smooth, easy to drive and plenty fast. It's about as close to a "kit" setup as I can find, though it still makes use of a decent number of option parts.
http://www.corallyusa.com/2005/setups/RDXnovakBRIAN.pdf
08-28-2006, 11:54 AM
#8663
Tech Initiate
do you know of any set up sheets that are near to the standard uk kits for aspalt? does the aluminum steering block make much difference?
08-28-2006, 12:23 PM
#8664
Originally Posted by Tez
do you know of any set up sheets that are near to the standard uk kits for aspalt? does the aluminum steering block make much difference?
I don't think any of the aluminum steering parts do anything than help make it more durable, and possibly take up a little slop? Nothing that'll make you lose races... unless you break.
08-28-2006, 01:28 PM
#8665
This is as close to stock as you can get. It works pretty darn good too.
http://www.corallyusa.com/2005/setups/RDXDaygerNATS.pdf
I would run level ride height though... 5mm should be good. I think the 4.5mm and 5.5mm is a typo. Downstops just try and start with 2mm of uptravel.
-Korey
http://www.corallyusa.com/2005/setups/RDXDaygerNATS.pdf
I would run level ride height though... 5mm should be good. I think the 4.5mm and 5.5mm is a typo. Downstops just try and start with 2mm of uptravel.
-Korey
08-28-2006, 01:45 PM
#8667
Originally Posted by syndr0me
Simply, one gives you more caster than the other. It affects the handling characteristics of your car. Here's a good explanation of it:
Caster -- Almost every car has some caster built-in. Caster is the angle that the car's front wheels pivot on when turning. Most on-road Touring Car type kits use between 5 and 10 degrees of caster. Off-road kits like buggies and trucks have about 25 to 30 degrees of 'kick-up' on the front axles. More caster generally gives more steering going into a turn, but less coming out. The opposite is also true: less caster give less steering going into a turn (initial steering), but more steering as you exit. Caster also gives more stability on straightaways, but this effect is more pronounced in 2WD vehicles.
Source: http://www.hpiracing.com/glossary.htm
Caster -- Almost every car has some caster built-in. Caster is the angle that the car's front wheels pivot on when turning. Most on-road Touring Car type kits use between 5 and 10 degrees of caster. Off-road kits like buggies and trucks have about 25 to 30 degrees of 'kick-up' on the front axles. More caster generally gives more steering going into a turn, but less coming out. The opposite is also true: less caster give less steering going into a turn (initial steering), but more steering as you exit. Caster also gives more stability on straightaways, but this effect is more pronounced in 2WD vehicles.
Source: http://www.hpiracing.com/glossary.htm
The more caster you run, the more mid to exit steering you get due to weight transfer as the car rolls through the corner.
Jeff
08-28-2006, 01:52 PM
#8668
that hpi information is crap. never, ever, would you experience more turn in with more castor. the car gets lazy on center, and turns more mid>>out with increasing castor. very little castor usually results in a very twitchy car. high castor cars are typically very smooth and easy to drive provided there aren't any switchbacks or quick stuff.
all you have to do is try it once and you'll know. it's a pretty coarse adjustment.
all you have to do is try it once and you'll know. it's a pretty coarse adjustment.
08-28-2006, 04:33 PM
#8669
Originally Posted by Bazzer
I'm having problems with leaky shocks can someone pass any ideas on what it could be and how to fix it. the car has only been run maybe 10 times the most including practice and races.
Thanks Corey
Thanks Corey
