Team Corally RDX Touring Car
#7831
Tech Elite
iTrader: (6)
Originally Posted by Obsidian
Greetings everyone,
I was thinking about rebuilding my rear diff (have had the car over a year but never rebuilt it. didn't need it) I'm sure it has the old diff screw so I pick that up. Any other suggestion on what else I should get?
Thanks for your help.
Cheerz
I was thinking about rebuilding my rear diff (have had the car over a year but never rebuilt it. didn't need it) I'm sure it has the old diff screw so I pick that up. Any other suggestion on what else I should get?
Thanks for your help.
Cheerz
#7832
Tech Regular
Thanks for the help Syndrome, Ollie and Jeff B.
#7834
Tech Elite
iTrader: (6)
Speaking of rebuilding diffs ...has anyone noticed (of those that went from carpet to asphalt), that on asphalt the diffs seem to stay smoother longer? ...I was totally expecting the oposite to be true as in would seem the dirt and stuff from asphalt would tend to make the diffs crunchy sooner ...all I can think is that I guess carpet fibers tend to "muck up" diffs sooner than asphalt dirt????
#7835
Originally Posted by HarshGuy
Speaking of rebuilding diffs ...has anyone noticed (of those that went from carpet to asphalt), that on asphalt the diffs seem to stay smoother longer? ...I was totally expecting the oposite to be true as in would seem the dirt and stuff from asphalt would tend to make the diffs crunchy sooner ...all I can think is that I guess carpet fibers tend to "muck up" diffs sooner than asphalt dirt????
Jeff
#7837
Jeff/Brian M/Sushi >> How much of a "must-have" is the 4mm chassis for carpet (club racing). Sushi - I am talking about Rain City if that helps...
-Rich
-Rich
#7838
Originally Posted by RichO
Jeff/Brian M/Sushi >> How much of a "must-have" is the 4mm chassis for carpet (club racing). Sushi - I am talking about Rain City if that helps...
-Rich
-Rich
Jeff
#7839
Hey guys, I have a body mounting question for you. I am planning on mounting a Protoform Nemesis body on the RDX. I was wondering if there is a work around for the rear body mounts. The mounts are almost inline with the wing mount. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks guys.
#7840
Tech Lord
iTrader: (32)
Originally Posted by rc_bam226
Hey guys, I have a body mounting question for you. I am planning on mounting a Protoform Nemesis body on the RDX. I was wondering if there is a work around for the rear body mounts. The mounts are almost inline with the wing mount. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks guys.
#7841
Tech Champion
iTrader: (13)
Yup, my car still works great witht he 2.9mm lower deck. On carpet with foams I always run the thicker upper deck... that seemed to make the biggest difference. The 4mm lower deck is actually milled down to 2.5mm where the bulkheads sit, so it lowers the roll center another .5mm then the stock chassis, and it's more rigid. I know most of the team at carpet nats actually ran just a stock chassis. Daygers car I think was pretty much a bone stock carpet spec kit with a lowered front tower, and low roll blocks.
-Korey
-Korey
#7842
Tech Regular
Sushi boy please post your carpet/foam setup with the 2.9 chassis, please .
#7843
Tech Champion
iTrader: (13)
This is what I run here at Rain city. The carpet is CRC fastrack and we use Jack the gripper as traction compound.
Front:
-Oil: AE 60wt
-Pistons: Tamiya 3 hole
-Spring: 30lbs
-Shock position: one hole in from outside on tower, outside hole on arm (Assuming you are using the old arms. On the new arms it will be the inner hole)
-Camber link position: upper row, outside hole
-Camber: -2 deg
-Caster: 4 deg
-Toe: 0 deg
-wheelbase: mid
-Ackerman: stock
-Droop/uptravel: 2mm up
-5mm ride height
-low roll blocks with 2.5mm shims on them to space the arms out.
Rear:
-Oil: AE 40wt
-Piston: tamiya 3 hole
-Spring: 22lbs
-Shock position: outside on tower, SRC x-long extension on the arm
-Camber link position: Top row, outer hole on tower, and middle hole on rear hub carrier.
-Camber: -2 deg
-Toe: .5-1.0 deg
-wheelbase: mid
-5mm ride height
-Droop: 2mm up
-low roll blocks
Other:
-Front diff
-75% suspension arms... or the new ones
-Narrow hex/wheel adapters all around ( you might have to trim the front knuckles a tiny bit to clear the wheel. If you run a std wide one up front that will result in more aggressive steering)
-lowered shock tower (not the "drilled" std shock tower to make it lowered)
-Parma Cyan fronts and Parma Magenta rears trimmed to about 56-57mm. Try to keep them all the same size... the fronts tend to wear a little faster. If the stagger becomes to big the car starts to push and do weird stuff.
-3.4mm upper deck, 2.9mm lower deck.
-Parma alfa body, stock wing.
That should get you guys goin. If I missed anything let me know.
-Korey
Front:
-Oil: AE 60wt
-Pistons: Tamiya 3 hole
-Spring: 30lbs
-Shock position: one hole in from outside on tower, outside hole on arm (Assuming you are using the old arms. On the new arms it will be the inner hole)
-Camber link position: upper row, outside hole
-Camber: -2 deg
-Caster: 4 deg
-Toe: 0 deg
-wheelbase: mid
-Ackerman: stock
-Droop/uptravel: 2mm up
-5mm ride height
-low roll blocks with 2.5mm shims on them to space the arms out.
Rear:
-Oil: AE 40wt
-Piston: tamiya 3 hole
-Spring: 22lbs
-Shock position: outside on tower, SRC x-long extension on the arm
-Camber link position: Top row, outer hole on tower, and middle hole on rear hub carrier.
-Camber: -2 deg
-Toe: .5-1.0 deg
-wheelbase: mid
-5mm ride height
-Droop: 2mm up
-low roll blocks
Other:
-Front diff
-75% suspension arms... or the new ones
-Narrow hex/wheel adapters all around ( you might have to trim the front knuckles a tiny bit to clear the wheel. If you run a std wide one up front that will result in more aggressive steering)
-lowered shock tower (not the "drilled" std shock tower to make it lowered)
-Parma Cyan fronts and Parma Magenta rears trimmed to about 56-57mm. Try to keep them all the same size... the fronts tend to wear a little faster. If the stagger becomes to big the car starts to push and do weird stuff.
-3.4mm upper deck, 2.9mm lower deck.
-Parma alfa body, stock wing.
That should get you guys goin. If I missed anything let me know.
-Korey
#7844
Originally Posted by syndr0me
Corally came out with an updated rear body post plate about a year ago that's got several holes drilled in it so you can mount your body posts closer together and avoid the problem you're having. I imagine by now, all the new ones you can buy have the updated mounting holes.
#7845
Tech Regular
Any word when more of the new arms will be in the us. What is the hold up?