Team Corally RDX Touring Car
01-14-2006, 08:49 AM
#5101
rdx
Originally Posted by Brian McGreevy
There are no plans for a new car or any conversion to make it a new car. We are only coming out with small updates .
As far as chassis are concerned for carpet/foams...
At the Novak race, myself and Jim Herrmann (also TQ) ran the 2.9 mm chassis. Jeff Dayger, Justin Zorc, Ron Atomic and Brian Lutz ran the 3.9 mm chassis. We all made the A in Stock Foam and we were all very fast. Each chassis has a slightly different feel but there is no saying that one is always faster, even on the highest grip (like the Novak race was). The 3.9 mm chassis does have the "bling" appeal to it, though.
As far as chassis are concerned for carpet/foams...
At the Novak race, myself and Jim Herrmann (also TQ) ran the 2.9 mm chassis. Jeff Dayger, Justin Zorc, Ron Atomic and Brian Lutz ran the 3.9 mm chassis. We all made the A in Stock Foam and we were all very fast. Each chassis has a slightly different feel but there is no saying that one is always faster, even on the highest grip (like the Novak race was). The 3.9 mm chassis does have the "bling" appeal to it, though.
still a fast car 
01-14-2006, 08:55 AM
#5102
Originally Posted by Brian McGreevy
YGM, 429.
My car, even with the extreme grip at the Novak, carried so much speed that you could practically drive it in the middle of the track and still turn the fast laps. It's easy to drive and very smooth.
My car, even with the extreme grip at the Novak, carried so much speed that you could practically drive it in the middle of the track and still turn the fast laps. It's easy to drive and very smooth.
Thanks in advance!
01-14-2006, 09:17 AM
#5103
Im getting my diff bolt in the post soon and want i dont want to get it 100% rite this time so if you can explain how tight/loose i should have my front diff...it had to be tighter than the rear because im having oversteer problems 
Thanks,
Big Will
Thanks,
Big Will
01-14-2006, 10:27 AM
#5104
droop
ok where do i start................
i have bought new foams for the rdx.d/p for the back and d/p/o for the front.i was previously running 56 mm tires.i was setting the droop in this procedure...i would back out droop screws and shock collars.then i would set 4mm ride height.then i would use my ride height gage in the fron by using the 5mm block,screw down droop screw untill tire lifted off the table,then back it back down to the tire rests on the table.do that both sides.rear i would do the samething but i would use 5.5mm
so when i put the new foams on i followed this same procedure..well the car rolled really bad....my qeustion is and im thinking that i would want to screw the droop screws down even more.say use like 6mm in the front and 6.5mm in the back.would that be the right direction to go?
also with tightness of front/rear diff...whats the tightening going to do in the front front verses having a loose diff in the front.
if its tight in the fron it will give me more steering in correct?
and loose would give me more steering out?
or is it the other way around?
any info would be good...although i do not know how much longet i will be keeping this car for.but untill i do i still want to try to get it to be competive.
thanks guys,
matt morris
i have bought new foams for the rdx.d/p for the back and d/p/o for the front.i was previously running 56 mm tires.i was setting the droop in this procedure...i would back out droop screws and shock collars.then i would set 4mm ride height.then i would use my ride height gage in the fron by using the 5mm block,screw down droop screw untill tire lifted off the table,then back it back down to the tire rests on the table.do that both sides.rear i would do the samething but i would use 5.5mm
so when i put the new foams on i followed this same procedure..well the car rolled really bad....my qeustion is and im thinking that i would want to screw the droop screws down even more.say use like 6mm in the front and 6.5mm in the back.would that be the right direction to go?
also with tightness of front/rear diff...whats the tightening going to do in the front front verses having a loose diff in the front.
if its tight in the fron it will give me more steering in correct?
and loose would give me more steering out?
or is it the other way around?
any info would be good...although i do not know how much longet i will be keeping this car for.but untill i do i still want to try to get it to be competive.
thanks guys,
matt morris
01-14-2006, 10:39 AM
#5105
Well im pretty sure that the tighter your front diff is and your rear is looser than the front you will have more steering. If you want more sterring you would want your rear to be more tighter than your front 
Big Will
Big Will
01-14-2006, 12:57 PM
#5107
Guys wonder if you can help, I'm looking to get rid of my RDX, whats a fair price for a second hand(used 3 times on carpet) one, with a good spares package???
Any help you can give would be greatly recieved
Any help you can give would be greatly recieved
01-14-2006, 12:58 PM
#5108
How much for the Spares Package?
01-14-2006, 01:51 PM
#5109
Originally Posted by Mission_carbon
Well im pretty sure that the tighter your front diff is and your rear is looser than the front you will have more steering. If you want more sterring you would want your rear to be more tighter than your front
Big Will
Big Will
The tighter the rear diff is, the more push the car will have.
The tighter the front diff is, the more steering the car will have.
I typically run the front diff tighter than the rear for less push and more steering.
01-14-2006, 02:33 PM
#5110
Mission I want to get rid of everything together sorry, but I will only split if I have too, the spares package has, a complete set of bulkheads, a spare top deck, a rear body mount, plate a oneway, a set of front hubs, a set of king pins, and a set of wishbones as well as a set of body posts.
01-14-2006, 02:58 PM
#5111
Originally Posted by Mi2_Tastic
Guys wonder if you can help, I'm looking to get rid of my RDX, whats a fair price for a second hand(used 3 times on carpet) one, with a good spares package???
Any help you can give would be greatly recieved
Any help you can give would be greatly recieved
01-14-2006, 03:05 PM
#5112
yea thats what i thought also...but had someone tell me to tighten it up to loose steering..
now all i need to do is figure out a easy way to do my droop setting with out it being a big hasle trying to remember how to do it.
do most of you guys run 1mm of droop in the front and 1.5 in the rear?
thx,
matt
now all i need to do is figure out a easy way to do my droop setting with out it being a big hasle trying to remember how to do it.
do most of you guys run 1mm of droop in the front and 1.5 in the rear?
thx,
matt
01-14-2006, 03:10 PM
#5113
Originally Posted by koabich
Your first sentence is correct but your second sentence is wrong. I think you just miss typed.
The tighter the rear diff is, the more push the car will have.
The tighter the front diff is, the more steering the car will have.
I typically run the front diff tighter than the rear for less push and more steering.
The tighter the rear diff is, the more push the car will have.
The tighter the front diff is, the more steering the car will have.
I typically run the front diff tighter than the rear for less push and more steering.
01-14-2006, 07:11 PM
#5114
Any word on when the 3.9mm chassis will be in stock again?
01-14-2006, 07:27 PM
#5115
Okay guys, what can I do to make my car transition faster thru the turns (recover faster), from below setup. Running stock on a small carpet track with lots of turns.
4 degree caster blocks
0 degree front toe
1.5 rear toe (or what manual says to run)
1.5 degrees camber all around
17# Front springs with 60wt oil
14.5# back springs with 40wt oil
5mm ride height all around
2mm up travel (also known as droop)
Front shock mounts: all the way in at top and bottom
Rear shock mount: 2nd to last hole out
Front camber mount: lower row, 2nd hole from the most inner position
Rear camber mount: lower row, 2nd hole from the most inner postion
Jaco Orange double pink in front
Jaco doulbe pink in rear
Roll center postions set as manual instructs.
Thanks,
Mike
4 degree caster blocks
0 degree front toe
1.5 rear toe (or what manual says to run)
1.5 degrees camber all around
17# Front springs with 60wt oil
14.5# back springs with 40wt oil
5mm ride height all around
2mm up travel (also known as droop)
Front shock mounts: all the way in at top and bottom
Rear shock mount: 2nd to last hole out
Front camber mount: lower row, 2nd hole from the most inner position
Rear camber mount: lower row, 2nd hole from the most inner postion
Jaco Orange double pink in front
Jaco doulbe pink in rear
Roll center postions set as manual instructs.
Thanks,
Mike