Team Corally RDX Touring Car
10-25-2005, 06:42 PM
#3901
Which one
So, is the only difference between the 3 Corally kits, the upper deck thickness and the diff and one way. If I were switching to 64 pitch spurs, will any spur work, and recommendations?
10-25-2005, 06:45 PM
#3902
Originally Posted by Superfly1967
So, is the only difference between the 3 Corally kits, the upper deck thickness and the diff and one way. If I were switching to 64 pitch spurs, will any spur work, and recommendations?
Castor Blocks are different also
10-25-2005, 06:49 PM
#3903
Originally Posted by imprsme
NONE are "weak designed" if they were they wouldn't have put them in the kit! 
Now if you are asking which parts tend to break...same as all the other cars. Arms, Steering knuckles and shock towers are things I have broken. But only after a GOOD LICK! But other than those I haven't broken anything else.
Now if you are asking which parts tend to break...same as all the other cars. Arms, Steering knuckles and shock towers are things I have broken. But only after a GOOD LICK! But other than those I haven't broken anything else.
I was just wondering what extra things you would want on a race day, things like extra arms or a front belt. What else breaks easy?
10-25-2005, 06:56 PM
#3904
On race days I like to have Arms, towers, Knuckles (if you don't get the Alu. ones), a belt Front belt would be nice also. Spring kit. and pistons. Toes spacers. A small parts bag assortment. Other than those I can't think of anything else that I have needed.
10-25-2005, 07:30 PM
#3905
dang...
shock towers? How do you break those? 
Originally Posted by imprsme
On race days I like to have Arms, towers, Knuckles (if you don't get the Alu. ones), a belt Front belt would be nice also. Spring kit. and pistons. Toes spacers. A small parts bag assortment. Other than those I can't think of anything else that I have needed.
10-25-2005, 07:39 PM
#3906
Originally Posted by RCknight
I was just wondering what extra things you would want on a race day, things like extra arms or a front belt. What else breaks easy?
That is the number one option part to purchase.
Jeff
10-25-2005, 07:55 PM
#3908
Originally Posted by Superfly1967
So, is the only difference between the 3 Corally kits, the upper deck thickness and the diff and one way. If I were switching to 64 pitch spurs, will any spur work, and recommendations?
KImbrough work great as do PRS, but in the PRS line you have to order OVAL Spur Gears.
10-25-2005, 08:49 PM
#3909
Originally Posted by Jeff Brown
SRC1000 - Rubberneck Hard Foam bumper
That is the number one option part to purchase.
Jeff
That is the number one option part to purchase.
Jeff
As for Towers The only way I have broken those is by running the outer most camber hole. But like I said you got to take a good shot to break it!
10-25-2005, 09:59 PM
#3910
I'm starting to wonder when I'll break my last arm. The novice class with 19T and all different cars don't break a thing, and the slightest brush against the wall and I'm replacing an $8 arm. I know better driving will help, and I'm practicing for hours EVERY week, but this is really starting to wear me down. Is there anything that will help? I'll run softer arms or aluminum arms or whatever it takes. I've got the strong bumper and the other plastic thing. It's really wearing me down.
10-25-2005, 10:15 PM
#3911
If you're breaking front arms make sure you have your arms spaced out an extra 1 mm from the bulkheads. Several others and myself have noticed that when this is done nearly all front-end breakages go away. Are you running aluminum steering blocks? If you space out the front you don't have to.
Side note: Running the front wider will give the car a touch more steering, also.
Side note: Running the front wider will give the car a touch more steering, also.
10-25-2005, 10:39 PM
#3913
Right now, I've got two 1mm spacers in there, and wide hexes. Should I go to three 1mm spacers and narrow hexes? I've got the aluminum knuckles too. I'm completely obliterating the arms... all three I broke tonight were in three pieces when I came off the track. I'm not kidding about these being minor incidents either. I swear, I'm being very patient, but ordering a bag of arms every week gets old. Thanks for the help.
Originally Posted by Brian McGreevy
If you're breaking front arms make sure you have your arms spaced out an extra 1 mm from the bulkheads. Several others and myself have noticed that when this is done nearly all front-end breakages go away. Are you running aluminum steering blocks? If you space out the front you don't have to.
Side note: Running the front wider will give the car a touch more steering, also.
Side note: Running the front wider will give the car a touch more steering, also.
Last edited by syndr0me; 10-25-2005 at 10:58 PM.
10-25-2005, 10:52 PM
#3914
Just an FYI about something I discovered with the car tonight.
I had some bearings go bad (they were old, we race on carpet) so I decided to replace them all with a ceramic kit from ACER. Everything worked great, and it did a great job of reducing the friction in the drive train. I can't say I noticed much on the track, but that's a different debate.
Anyway, with the ceramic bearings in there, the front pulley seems to seize up at weird intervals. I noticed that the real pulley has a slight amount of play between the bulkheads (maybe 1mm on each side) but the front pulley is completely jammed with NO play at all. It looks like that lack of play in the front was putting pressure on the larger seals of the ceramic bearings, and causing them to bind. Replacing them with the stock bearings fixed the problem.
So, I'm not sure what that means, exactly. It's not immediately apparent what design benefit is given by having the front pulley have no wiggle room, but it does seem to cause issues with ceramic bearings that don't use metal shields. If there's no benefit, an extra tiny bit of play in the front would be a nice change for the RDX2. :-)
I had some bearings go bad (they were old, we race on carpet) so I decided to replace them all with a ceramic kit from ACER. Everything worked great, and it did a great job of reducing the friction in the drive train. I can't say I noticed much on the track, but that's a different debate.
Anyway, with the ceramic bearings in there, the front pulley seems to seize up at weird intervals. I noticed that the real pulley has a slight amount of play between the bulkheads (maybe 1mm on each side) but the front pulley is completely jammed with NO play at all. It looks like that lack of play in the front was putting pressure on the larger seals of the ceramic bearings, and causing them to bind. Replacing them with the stock bearings fixed the problem.
So, I'm not sure what that means, exactly. It's not immediately apparent what design benefit is given by having the front pulley have no wiggle room, but it does seem to cause issues with ceramic bearings that don't use metal shields. If there's no benefit, an extra tiny bit of play in the front would be a nice change for the RDX2. :-)
10-25-2005, 11:45 PM
#3915
Originally Posted by Brian McGreevy
If you're breaking front arms make sure you have your arms spaced out an extra 1 mm from the bulkheads.