Team Corally RDX Touring Car
#3227
Tech Champion
iTrader: (13)
The number the setup sheets have for droop is the ride height of the car when the suspension arms are at their full extension. So basically just lift up on the car untill the tires or juuuuuuust touching the setup board, then take ride height while holding the car in that position.
Some of the setup sheets like mine and Jeffs use a slightly different number. We figure out our droop the same way as I just described but we subtract our ride height from it. So lets say we have 7.0mm and our ride height is 5mm. So we do 7.0-5.0 = 2.0mm. This is called 2.0mm over ride height, or "droop". I hope I explained this well enough, I think I confused myself halfway through that lol.
-Korey
Some of the setup sheets like mine and Jeffs use a slightly different number. We figure out our droop the same way as I just described but we subtract our ride height from it. So lets say we have 7.0mm and our ride height is 5mm. So we do 7.0-5.0 = 2.0mm. This is called 2.0mm over ride height, or "droop". I hope I explained this well enough, I think I confused myself halfway through that lol.
-Korey
#3228
Originally Posted by Sushi Boy
The number the setup sheets have for droop is the ride height of the car when the suspension arms are at their full extension. So basically just lift up on the car untill the tires or juuuuuuust touching the setup board, then take ride height while holding the car in that position.
Some of the setup sheets like mine and Jeffs use a slightly different number. We figure out our droop the same way as I just described but we subtract our ride height from it. So lets say we have 7.0mm and our ride height is 5mm. So we do 7.0-5.0 = 2.0mm. This is called 2.0mm over ride height, or "droop". I hope I explained this well enough, I think I confused myself halfway through that lol.
-Korey
Some of the setup sheets like mine and Jeffs use a slightly different number. We figure out our droop the same way as I just described but we subtract our ride height from it. So lets say we have 7.0mm and our ride height is 5mm. So we do 7.0-5.0 = 2.0mm. This is called 2.0mm over ride height, or "droop". I hope I explained this well enough, I think I confused myself halfway through that lol.
-Korey
#3230
Originally Posted by AdrianM
Jeff - Are you coming to Speedline this weekend or are you on Summer Sizzler duty?
Jeff
#3231
Tech Master
iTrader: (6)
I have a LCG I'm looking to trade for a FK05 or preferably a RDX. The car was only ran on carpet for a few packs and is in excellent condition. Included are a fare amount of spares and hop ups. It also comes with everything to convert it to a cmg or sd ssg. If any one is interested please PM or Email me. I have pics. Later, Rob
#3232
Tech Champion
iTrader: (103)
Originally Posted by Rob Phillips
I have a LCG I'm looking to trade for a FK05 or preferably a RDX. The car was only ran on carpet for a few packs and is in excellent condition. Included are a fare amount of spares and hop ups. It also comes with everything to convert it to a cmg or sd ssg. If any one is interested please PM or Email me. I have pics. Later, Rob
#3233
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
Originally Posted by Jeff Brown
I'm not sure........ I have to work on Rob today to get the final word. I want to come down there obviously.
Jeff
Jeff
#3234
Originally Posted by AdrianM
Cool...Todd Hodge just called and said Billy Easton is coming in tonight. Ralph Burch and Jared Scott are coming too. Sedan Mod is going to be hardcore.
Jeff
#3236
Originally Posted by ALL APPROVED
hey jeff should I change spur gear or just use stock....
Jeff
#3237
Can you give me a start ratio for a monster stock pro,carpet
short to medium size with tight infield,78 spur 48dp?
Thanks for your help....
short to medium size with tight infield,78 spur 48dp?
Thanks for your help....
#3238
Well, I am assuming foam tires........ I would start at a 22 tooth as this will give you a 1.0 inch rollout which should be pretty good with the Monster.
But yer in the UK and probably Rubber Tires. I would still start around a 22 tooth, perhaps a 21.
Jeff
But yer in the UK and probably Rubber Tires. I would still start around a 22 tooth, perhaps a 21.
Jeff
#3239
Thanks Jeff, using the RDX in anger on sunday for the first time thanks again
#3240
Tech Lord
iTrader: (32)
A few months ago, when I got my Hudy setup station, I noticed the rear toe wasn't equal on my car, even though I had 2MM worth of spacers on both sides. I thought perhaps it was a problem with the holes in the chassis, but when I got the 4mm chassis, it did the same thing. It's off by about .5 degrees from one side to the other, even though the spacers are the same. It's different enough that it's evident when you look at the spaces between the control arm and the shocks in the rear from side to side. I have very little clearance there since I'm running the RPM ballcups, and noticed that one side hits while the other clears the shock just fine. When I look at the chassis from the rear, the one side has the bulkhead snug against the part of the chassis where the milling stops and the chassis is at its full thickness, while on the other side there's a tiny gap. I was able to loosen the side with the gap and retighten it to close it some, but it's still off a little bit from one side to another.
So, all I can figure, is that my right rear bulkhead (the one without the motor mount) is bent or warped. Is that something that actually happens to these cars during a wreck, or could it have been a manufacturing defect? I can balance out the two sides in terms of rear toe, but it would mean using a different number of spacers from side to side, which seems kind of goofy. Should I just replace it and hope the next one is better, or is this within normal manufacturing tolerances?
The holes seem to be drilled evenly (checked with calipers) but it rocks every so slightly on a flat surface. :-(
So, all I can figure, is that my right rear bulkhead (the one without the motor mount) is bent or warped. Is that something that actually happens to these cars during a wreck, or could it have been a manufacturing defect? I can balance out the two sides in terms of rear toe, but it would mean using a different number of spacers from side to side, which seems kind of goofy. Should I just replace it and hope the next one is better, or is this within normal manufacturing tolerances?
The holes seem to be drilled evenly (checked with calipers) but it rocks every so slightly on a flat surface. :-(
Last edited by syndr0me; 09-02-2005 at 12:52 PM.