SikKustomz

iTrader: (10)

Profile 2. Stock settings besides punch 80%. Gearing stock spur?11 pinion tight track. Battery 2s 5,000 reedy.

jorgesimes

please send mail to [email protected] because in my point of view could be more of a RMA thing.

narcotiks

iTrader: (8)

The capacitor wire connected to the PCB on the vtx 10
The negative capacitor prong closest to the negative battery port and the the part of the PCB connecting to the negative battery port are touching , im not sure if this is my doing by trying to tin the ports or from the factory... ?????

jorgesimes

Sorry, but i don't understand what you mean, could you post a photo plz.

Thanks in advance.

jorgesimes

Are you talking about this on the circle:



From factory.

narcotiks

iTrader: (8)

Yeah that right there haha thank god!
Is there a teqnique to soldering the wires to the esc cause I'm having some trouble ... Using lead free solder

wingracer

iTrader: (24)

Ditch the lead free solder. Get some good 60/40 rosin core.

grippgoat

iTrader: (8)

I had trouble, too. I'm using 60/40. The Viper is REALLY good at conducting heat away from the solder terminals. I found using a higher wattage iron helped (was originally using 40w, I think the one I'm using now is like 50w?). Put it on max temp. Give it a good long time to get up to temp. And give it a good long time to recover between wires. Whenever I borrow a fellow racer's 60w induction iron at the track, it always goes much more smoothly. At some point I'll have to get something nicer.

-Mike

narcotiks

iTrader: (8)

How did you end up doing it? I'm finding it really difficult to do
I've got one of the really high end weller soldering stations and have currently got it on 425 degrees and it's beginning to heat up the terminals quicker to tin them.. I just tried To clean off all the lead free solder that I tinned on the terminals and I'm gonna use 60/40 but still it's tricky. How did everyone do theirs? Tin wires onto the terminals with a little extra solder fed in? Or tinned the ports and wires and extra solder ...???

jorgesimes

I didnīt have any problem, my guess is your solder is not so good, but a good 60/40 1mm solder should do the work, no need for long time heat in the posts. Just apply solder to the posts, the wire are pre solder applied use that end and should be more than enough and easy. Also soldering station is a must have nowadays.

narcotiks

iTrader: (8)

how do you remove the circuit board part of the motor? and can the stator be removed so i can inspect it?

jorgesimes

There is video on youtube, check for viper. It's 3d animated but you can check it. On the phone right now, so not easy to post it. About the stator i don't advice to take it out.

ekim628

iTrader: (9)

Here is the helpful 3D animation video

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_WUFn...2&feature=plcp

4wheeldrive

iTrader: (22)

I downloaded the newest viper update and the instructions say to open up the .rar file but the file for version A30 is a .vuf file. Am I missing something here? What do I do with the file now?

narcotiks

iTrader: (8)

managed to re solder the tiny black comonent, but i seeem to have lost the little spring that goes on the front end of the rotor. does this spring do anything imortant?