TeamPink91

I recently dedided to start using a reciever pack on my 12th scale after a transponder failure. But I have some questions like where do I plug it in if I am using a personal transponder, and do I have to wire anything differently for the speedo. Thanks

TeamPink91

Ok forget that, I figured out all the wiring issues. So now what do any of you recomend for charging and how long it should run without dying. Thanks again.

berger

iTrader: (1)

How do you have yours wired out of interest, could you post a picture of it?

TeamPink91

I have my reciever pack (5 cell), plugged in the battery slot, steering and esc in their places and the personal transponder in the 3rd channel slot. Sorry i couldn't get you the pic it said the file was too large.

berger

iTrader: (1)

Oh right doesnt matter, thought you had something fancy rigged up Thanks though

TeamPink91

I'm not the fancy type I just do what works.

S-T-R-l-K-E-R

charging rate would depend on what batts you use. i use RX packs too and they are qute small. i only use .1amps with them cause thats what the manufacturer (promatch) recommends if you have the sub C or AAA packs .5amps is a safe bet.

fast-ho-cars

iTrader: (4)

this works with the LRP Q-comp and Novak GT7 .

removing the red wire was something i only had to do on older ESC's

i have a old TEKIN 2 channel rec. i took the AMB transponder wires out of the plug, then routed/cut 2 1/8" channels into the plastic plug. soldered my rec-pack wires onto the top of the gold pins then reinserted into the plug. basically the rec pk and x-ponder are using the same plug. i add a Novak switch for the rec-pk. when i turn the rec-pk....... the ESC, servo, x-pond, & Rec turn on.

if you don't use a personal X-ponder just plug the rec pk into the rec. however if you don't add a on/off switch to your rec pk your car will turn on.

i did not pull the red wire form the esc to the rec. the switch for my LRP & GT7 does not get used (AND SHOULD NOT) so i removed it completely. i mount mine in a 3-2 hump config on the t-bar like the Trinity drivers do. the CRC and SM non-t-bar racers run then usually in a 5-cell flat stick config behind the servo

4-cells power the motor

5-cell micro pk powers the 4 (ESC, SERVO, REC & X-POND) items, also steering is quicker due to increased voltage

weight i don't believe is much of a issue. where i race AMB shop x-ponders (huge for a 12th scale) are used at every race. My personal x-ponder and the 5-cell pk probably weight the same +or - a few grams

i charge mine after 2 heats on a Noval Mil Pro charger at 1 amp and have had no problems on a pack that is over 1 year old. the car was raced twice a week for 6+ monsth to top that


NOTE: on some ESCs, if you remove the red wire going into the REC from the ESC....then your 4-cell pk powers the ESC and Motor. you have to turn on your REC PK first then the ESC. reverse when shutting down.

Not all ESCs are the same when it comes down to receiving power from the REC when the red wire is left in. in this config you may end up draining some of your REC=PK into the motor..........not sure

andsetinn

Why lose the weight of 2 big cells just to have to add 6 small ones?

I don't race in the 4 cell class, there is no 4 cell class locally, but if I did, I think I would add 2 small cells to the 4 cell batterypack. 2,4v plus 4,8 would give me 7,2 for the radio. It could be tricky to charge just 2 cells but there are lots of chargers capable of it. You'd save the weight of 4 small cells.

Grams saved are seconds earned.

fast-ho-cars

iTrader: (4)

wouldn't work

when the two 190 milliamp cells went dead, your car would aslo.
the 3300 cells wouldn't be able to push the power thru. plus it would be tuff to charge your pk

your pack is only as good as your weakest cells....hence matching comes into play. you can't match a 6 cell pack with different types of cells with different charge characteristics. capacity, etc. etc.

andsetinn

I was thinking more of 600mAh cells, if that doesn't last five minutes to pump up the voltage to the receiver and servos,,,, then you should get cheaper servos.

You charge the 2 cell and 4 cell packs as 2 separate packs so matching doesn't come into it.

You have 2 packs, one with 4 cells and one with 2 cells. The 4 cell pack is used to drive the motor. The 2 cell pack is then added to the 4 cell pack and both packs used to run the receiver and servos.