dyno'd-silver can 540j after long break-in
11-11-2010, 11:24 PM
#46
So confusing, so here people are attempting to research and READ, yet when we ask a question, we are told to just buy a red dot.
And while I did ask some questions. That's again what this site is for.
Personally, I think your jigs are used to illegally alter the motor. No jig for a motor would take 3 tries to make for something legal. If you claim it's a break in jig, I am going to laugh. You could make one of those with commercially available stuff for less than $50.
A linear power supply for a dyno? Really? Sure you are not trying to run a constant current through the windings?
And while I did ask some questions. That's again what this site is for.
Personally, I think your jigs are used to illegally alter the motor. No jig for a motor would take 3 tries to make for something legal. If you claim it's a break in jig, I am going to laugh. You could make one of those with commercially available stuff for less than $50.
A linear power supply for a dyno? Really? Sure you are not trying to run a constant current through the windings?
I'm sorry that you took the advice I gave you, with good intentions by the way, so badly. I was basing it on economics and was merely trying to point out the costs involved in doing them yourself. I did it cause Doc wasn't selling motors then and the only way to get a really fast motor was to do it myself. Turned into an enjoyable hobby within a hobby, but very expensive.
I don't think I'd do it now, since I can just buy one. If you still want to do this you at least have a list of the minimum equipment you will need. The Fantom dyno is my third and my present power supply is my second.
At one point in "tuning" a motor, I put a heavy load on the power supply. That's the reason for the linear PS instead of a switching PS and also the reason I'm on my second power supply.
When Doc said research and read, I'm sure he did not mean on r/c tech. What you're looking for won't be found here. Try going to a website "How Stuff Works" and look up electric motors and magnets and magnetism. Basic, but a start. Believe it or not, but wikipedia had some usefull stuff.
11-11-2010, 11:28 PM
#47
I remember my friend who was spec racing with handout chameleons (19T)
My friend won, apparently he is a good friend of our LHS and race organizer,
he was secretly given a faster motor so he could win. My friend was a newbie and had lots of crashes during that race but eventually won.
Induced cheating.
My friend won, apparently he is a good friend of our LHS and race organizer,
he was secretly given a faster motor so he could win. My friend was a newbie and had lots of crashes during that race but eventually won.
Induced cheating.
11-12-2010, 12:47 AM
#48
This is a hobby... those of us that race with a clear conscience know that cheating is cheating, even if the scrutineers don't have the tools to find out...
11-12-2010, 03:26 AM
#51
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...the best way to keep a level playing field is handout silver cans. engrave each can with a number. randomily pull a motor from a box,write down what each racers motor number...
11-12-2010, 07:44 AM
#52
Perrotto- Best way to break in a silver can is to run it in a motor jig at 4 volts using a slave motor. Oil the bushings, use clear comm drops every 12 hours on the burshes, and stop when the brishes are straight up and down on the comm- that will take several days. You can run it in reverse for a few hours if you want to pick up a few hundred RPM at the expense of torque (eg for F1). That's really it. Some motors will wind up in the low 13's, others in the 12's.
@Granpa I understand your reluctance toward sharing your knowledge. If possible could you explain what and why you do this? If you do not want to could you at least tell us if your techniques and reasons are similar to the 10amp load that RCcartips was referring to?
Last edited by 92gsr; 11-12-2010 at 08:30 AM.
11-12-2010, 09:54 AM
#54
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What is the spec (turns/endbell) of your slave motor?
But you knew that.
11-12-2010, 11:26 AM
#55
I'm sorry, but I do share my knowledge. I won't post step by step instructions, drawings, schematics but ----whatever. Just sent a PM to a guy in Australia who told me what he was doing. We discussed a couple of modifications he might make. I don't do step by steps in PMs either. Look at how many posts you see about how motor tuners are cheating. I had one guy tell me directly I was cheating. They don't know what I'm doing, but whatever it is must be cheating.
Hell, just because they can't figure out how to build a faster motor w/out cheating, doesn't mean that some guys can't. We're not all lazy or mentally challenged. I had to earn my MMT (master motor tuner) degree and so must everyone else. No one's just handing it to you. That doesn't mean that I won't nudge you in the right direction like I did for my Australian friend, but he'd already paid his dues.
11-12-2010, 11:42 AM
#56
I have no idea what he was talking about and could only guess or theorize and that wouldn't be fair to him. The breaking of the washer thing must be a reference to the "illegal" practice of "cranking" the comm. This of course is to get more advance. Someone was telling me that the comms are done now in a way that you can't "crank" them anymore. Never done it so can't really comment other than to say it was a pretty good motor guy.
I'm sorry, but I do share my knowledge. I won't post step by step instructions, drawings, schematics but ----whatever. Just sent a PM to a guy in Australia who told me what he was doing. We discussed a couple of modifications he might make. I don't do step by steps in PMs either. Look at how many posts you see about how motor tuners are cheating. I had one guy tell me directly I was cheating. They don't know what I'm doing, but whatever it is must be cheating.
Hell, just because they can't figure out how to build a faster motor w/out cheating, doesn't mean that some guys can't. We're not all lazy or mentally challenged. I had to earn my MMT (master motor tuner) degree and so must everyone else. No one's just handing it to you. That doesn't mean that I won't nudge you in the right direction like I did for my Australian friend, but he'd already paid his dues.
I'm sorry, but I do share my knowledge. I won't post step by step instructions, drawings, schematics but ----whatever. Just sent a PM to a guy in Australia who told me what he was doing. We discussed a couple of modifications he might make. I don't do step by steps in PMs either. Look at how many posts you see about how motor tuners are cheating. I had one guy tell me directly I was cheating. They don't know what I'm doing, but whatever it is must be cheating.
Hell, just because they can't figure out how to build a faster motor w/out cheating, doesn't mean that some guys can't. We're not all lazy or mentally challenged. I had to earn my MMT (master motor tuner) degree and so must everyone else. No one's just handing it to you. That doesn't mean that I won't nudge you in the right direction like I did for my Australian friend, but he'd already paid his dues.
thanks!- Chris
11-12-2010, 01:59 PM
#57
But that goes against everything the xbox generation expects...........that will just never work. Next you'll expect them to accept the fact that not everyone wins.
11-12-2010, 02:31 PM
#58
Sorry if I wasn't clear. I meant how and why do you put a large load on your motors during break in. Also despite my low post count I have been in the hobby since 1988 and I have been into silvercan tuning since 05. I have been reading the massive silvercan post for years now even though I don't comment much.
11-12-2010, 03:49 PM
#59
Sorry if I wasn't clear. I meant how and why do you put a large load on your motors during break in. Also despite my low post count I have been in the hobby since 1988 and I have been into silvercan tuning since 05. I have been reading the massive silvercan post for years now even though I don't comment much.
11-14-2010, 09:55 PM
#60
Mark, sent you another reply to your PM. Sorry you didn't get the first one