Diff problem with a TC3
OK, I have a IRS aluminum diff. Last year I had it in my car for about 4 months, durring that time I snapped 4 screews, I had it in the rear then.
Today I put it in the front, put a brand new V2 in my car and 2 out 3 of my heats today ended with a snapped diff screew. Anyone ever expeirence this before? Should I just run the pastic set up, up front? Or will that melt out from the Mod.... can someone help me out I am baffled why this diff constantly breaks screews. Today first setting was, medium towards the tight side, so after I snapped the first one I set it to medium but on the light side, still nothing.... Man these car dont drive for crap with a 9 double in RWD mode. But, seriously, anyone have any thoughts other then "Don't run the IRS one" Thanks, Chris |
Re: Diff problem with a TC3
Originally posted by Smalls But, seriously, anyone have any thoughts other then "Don't run the IRS one" Thanks, Chris not really, sorry :p seriously though, i don't race mod, but as far as i know all the local tc3 mod drivers use the kit plastic diffs without any problems, so you should be fine with that (not to mention the weight savings) hope that helps |
Agreed, I've had mine for 4 1/2 years, & in truth I've never broken a diff adjustment screw(& that's using the old original steel outdrives, aluminum ones, & the plastic ones that I now use). When you rebuild your diffs, howare you tightening the screw? Are you cranking it down all the way first & then backing off, or some other way?
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:) Hey guys! Just got me self a TC3. I took off a guy. Being new to this car.....could anybody help? Is there anything I should be paying special attention to ? Like which part is more prone to break....so on and so forth.
Thanks Bryan :cool: |
The front end seems to be the most fragile. Invest in a big front bumper, both the foam part, and the plastic part under it. Cheap and it will save you a lot of parts. Also, the stock chassis will warp from heat, so always take out the motor soon after you run it.
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Hi,
Chris, you might want to put a small washer on the spring side of your diff. this was a problem when the TC3 first came out. some of the diff screws havel ess threads on them. as for plastic diffs in mod we run all the time with 7x1's and 8x2's. Thanks |
Also worth mentioning......is that the IRS aluminum diffs internals set up like the nitro TC3 ,not the electric TC3...everything is reversed as well as "having" to use the white plastic piece with the ears on it that has steel threads inside for the diff bolt to pass through...... instead of that little nut that used to fitt recessed in the stock plastic outdrives...Im not sure how youv'e set your's up, but if you mimic how the plastic outdrives go together you'll have an uncentered diff bolt that will quickly bend or snap........
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steel outdrives
Plastic ones last a long time
IRS ones are light and also last long the AE Steel ones laaaaaast a long time! Been using t for almost a year now without any problems, its just a tad heavier than the IRS. Peace and Hapy Racing! |
Originally posted by micros_rock The front end seems to be the most fragile. Invest in a big front bumper, both the foam part, and the plastic part under it. Cheap and it will save you a lot of parts. Also, the stock chassis will warp from heat, so always take out the motor soon after you run it. Bryan :cool: |
Yea you can run plastic diffs in mod, But they will melt together. Ive done it everytime I have tried it.
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Yup!! I agree with him.. Just a curiosity so we did it and it melt as what Trinityracinnut stated...
:nod: :cool: |
hey do the FT chassies worp from heat?
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Yes they do......thats one of the many reasons people switch to carbon fiber
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Nice and quick answer there buddy!! :nod: :cool:
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