azeroth

iTrader: (21)

a set of zero s front dif caps and a xi or ultimate rear shock tower

GENERALTALKS

Thanks Azeroth. I thought the guy was using a Tamiya part but that's even better...cheaper.

azeroth

iTrader: (21)

recently did it on mine it makes a difference at least on mine it did.
i am still fighting with loose going into tight corners on carpet but it is getting better could be the driver as well<G>

GENERALTALKS

I like the body on your avatar...what is it please.
How much rear toe are you running: 2 or 3 degrees. Try the 3deg block it should give you more rear grip. Also the droop is very important...a bit less on the rear should also slow the turnin a bit.

azeroth

iTrader: (21)

THAT IS A PT8 on my nitro gt
I have had rear toe from 2 to 4 it likes 2.5 the best. droop from ride height+1 to ride+5 front and rear i almost think it is a weight bias problem front to rear (or Driver)

TeamThibault

what droop are you guys running?
I guess im having a rebound problem with grip.
as a newbie i set my rebound to 100% and im not get any traction. Im thinking that I will try to set it to 20%
to see if that helps me out. (im thinking that may of been most of my problem)

for a binky 13.5 what pinion/spur should i start with 80/25 sounds all right?

azeroth

iTrader: (21)

i am running 1mm of shock rebound droop i change as ness last night i ended up with ride+3 front ride +4 rear worked the best (shock rebound makes the car think it has stiffer springs than what you have so less is better)

TeamThibault

I guess as a newbie I should of re read this. and then put it to action
im thinking this was my one of my problems from the start
I guess when you re read the whole thread from the start you can learn stuff

TeamThibault

narrow chassis & battery strap
i hate using tape for batterys and would like to find holder&strap any one have any ideals?
had a great weekend kept breaking front arms tho

azeroth

iTrader: (21)

i have had a rash of arms earlier this winter and then a rash of c hubs as for a hold bat hold down i did make a couple of T's that bolted in with the slide pieces and used a rubberband like on a 1/12 but that let the battery move to much and went back to strapping tape

Need4SomeSpeed

Hey everyone new on here and I am speed freak. I was looking at the Sakura Zero all wheel belt drive. I am going to go with this kit because it looks strong and its cheap unless you guys have any better ideas. What I wanted to know is. What is the best and the strongest and fast motor combo I can use. Iwant to bash with it and maybe get into racing.

Delta_Ice

iTrader: (1)

I have went through the first 30 pages on here and to save me a ton of steps can one of you guys who have been running these awhile message me a list of needed upgrades and wanting upgrades? Looking to buy 2 of tje rebranded hobbyking ones to have a full set of parts but want to make sure i get the needed upgrades at the aame time. Thanks!

SteveM

iTrader: (165)

The car is great box stock, but I found the following upgrades helpful.

1) alloy spur gear adapter
2) 19T center pulleys (makes for a 2.0 internal ratio)
3) Vertical motor mount

If you use the vertical motor mount you must swap the belts to the other side of the chassis. You must also Dremel the upper deck slightly to allow clearance for the motor mount.

Also, swapping the belts means the front belt rubs on the plastic battery tray guides and these will also need to be ground a bit. Not hard to do and I posted pics of everything. You will have to dig through the pages to find them.

Nego

iTrader: (107)

Het guys got a question,whats the advantage or down side ti a one way front diff? Thanks will keep on reading more in here.

SteveM

iTrader: (165)

Biggest downside is you lose front brakes, and when you do brake you can spin out. Upside is the car turns in on long sweepers much better. Not mant racers using a one-way anymore and most have gone to a spool or a gear diff with heavy diff fluid.