sonspit

okay so i installed the vertical motor mount and the zero top deck, flipped the belts and modded the battery tray on my s. but i took it out for a run and it pulls to the left on throttle but tracks perfectly straight when its free rolling. can any one help me with this?

sonspit

i've put a .3mm shims under all 8 places on all 4 bulkhead covers and still have the same problem. and i bought a whole new top deck just to make sure it wasnt the one i modded

sonspit

did this too

ta04evah

iTrader: (2)

I'm using a Hobbywing Xtreme Stock esc and a Hobbywing Xerun 21.5 motor, with 19 teeth center pulleys I end up with a roll out of around 71. I use this gearing in my touring car, but only when the temps are really cool, when it's a bit warmer I drop it down to a 41 tooth pinon.

I use a similar ratio with my VTA car, but will drop another tooth on the pinon to allow for the larger diameter VTA tires and it's close to the ratio I used with my old VTA car at SMA.

Cheers
Rob.

sonspit

no input ? im gonna rebuild my shocks and diffs today to see if it fixes the issue

cygnusx1

Cross weights, alignment, ride heights, loose links, tire rub, tight bearing? Have to be methodical to find that stuff. Good luck.

Speed Passion

Agreed with all the above. Usually the balance is very common culprit. This is why people spend a lot of time balancing their car. One thing not mentioned is the tires. be sure they are balanced and even. Also make sure your camber is correct and even on both sides.

Hope that helps!

sonspit

i rebuild the shocks and diffs. after i rebuilt the 1st diff in the rear and the shocks. i took it for a go and it seemed better so i went ahead and did the frnt diff but i cant run it right now because wifee always flipping... "you spend too much time on the cars, all i ask is some quality time, blah blah blah"lol but i will let you guys know after i get it outside... and thanks

ta04evah

iTrader: (2)

I was going to say check your diffs, make sure they both turn smoothly, if they feel "notchy" then you have them done up too tight and could be causing your steering issues.

Bwhahaha! Hey you've got something on your forehead, it looks like a deep thumb mark.
Anyway, hope it works good for you when you get the chance to try it again. My wife is awesome, she encourages me to race & buys me stuff for my cars.

Cheers
Rob.

Sakuraszero

Can someone help me I thought I blown the motor up in the s so i bought another one installed it and its doing the same thing so not motor lol. What happens is when I press throttle it does nothing but if I hold the throttle and turn the front wheels it will go but when I stop and press the trottle again it wont move unless I turn the front wheels anyone know what it might be?

jdeadman

iTrader: (41)

Bad receiver?

Waflet

iTrader: (35)

Hideeho
What kind motors, receiver, & ESC are you using? Are the motors sensored or sensor less? If sensor less I have run into the problem that the rotor gets into a position that the ESC doesn't think it's in & won't move until it gets bumped, moving the rotor to the proper position. Moving the front wheels will move the car a little, moving the rotor into position. Next time it does it try pushing the car a little while giving it some throttle, if it takes off that's your problem. Unfortunately the only fix for it is a sensored motor & ESC.

If your motor is sensored do the same thing. If it takes off your problem could very well lie in either the sensor cable or the ESC sensor. Try another sensor cable. Then try another ESC, borrow one or install your motor & sensor cable in some else's car.

If its still not fixed try a different receiver.

The concept is to replace 1 component at a time, putting the others back in place as you switch to a new one in, until the problem is rectified. The component that is replaced & fixes the problem is one that needs replacing permanently (& is hopefully still under warranty ).

sonspit

they are notchy!!! so they're too tight? i thought they were just damaged and i dint know that could effect steering.. i tighten them up because it seemed like the only way to get them to stop leaking.. thanks i'll try loosening them up now.
and i ran it today and it was better but still doing wierd things. going left some time, going right sometimes and perfect other times... all on power or braking. but not as bad as before. loosened the droop screws so they dont effect droop at all since i dont have a gauge and i feel like they werent equal all around.

ta04evah

iTrader: (2)

Try loosening them a little bit and hopefully they won't leak.
When you build the diffs, check out this guide from 3 Racing http://os.3racing.hk/articles.php?articles_key=133
Follow what they advise and your diffs should not leak and last for a long time.

Also, are you using the servo saver that comes with the kit? If you are then throw it away, it's been mentioned many times how the kit servo saver has caused a lot of problems that are very similar & alike to yours.

Cheers
Rob.

urban

ok some where in this thread it said if i add a spacer on the camber i will get more grip in the rear?
is that adding a spacer to rear bulkhead ball stud?

what is the part # to the shorter rear arms? is it SAK-X01
if i used Narrow Suspension Mount would that be the same as changing you arms?
would u used the Narrow Suspension Mount and shorter arms togethwer?

if i change my driveshafts to SAK-X27 do i need any other parts?
what is the diff between SAK-X27 and #SAK-40E