1gdsmracer

iTrader: (96)

What do you have holding the battery on the inside from hitting the belt?

sonspit

its a hard case.. what battery do u think would be ideal?
and whats your avg speeds?

On-Road-Boy

iTrader: (2)

Hey all just wondering if any one knows the part number for the 8 diff screws or where I can find some ?

Thanks

Speed Passion

I tried to make something that looks factory and is versatile. What I used was two ball cups, and two of the ball studs from the swaybar kit and a small rubber m2.8x1.8 o-ring.

Put the small rubber o-ring over the pink ball stud. Put the ball stud into the ball cup. With the o-ring on it, it will stay put and act as a small shock absorber also. Place the ball cup standing up and screw it in from the bottom of the chassis. It's small, light and easy to make and looks factory.

Hope that helps.

sonspit

post a pic plz. i just got the vertical motor mount. thx

capnkids

To hold my battery away from the belt I just drilled and tapped a small length of aluminum square stock that was 5mm in width and depth. mounted it in pre existing holes through the bottom of the chassis. I used a M3 flat head screw mounted horizontally to hold the battery tight against the outside battery mounts. They work like the car's servo mounts except instead of holding the servo against the mount, I leave the screw sticking out about 6mm and it provides a stand off to push against the battery case. Kind of looks like an upside down capital L.

People like Yeah Racing make aluminum servo mounts you can buy that are exactly the same thing. Somewhere earlier in this forum the idea is shown in pictures.

capnkids

The diff screws that are Titanium are 3 Racing part number TS-FSM2608M. Get the TI ones. You just can't get the steel ones supplied in the kit tight enough in my opinion. They strip out way too easy.

capnkids

Ran my first race with the Zero S today. It was my first race in almost 15 years. I have some work to do on my driving, but the car had great speed. The setup for a rough asphalt cold track was fairly dialed. Of course my driving did not allow me to push the car super hard, but I led several laps in both the heats and the main before eventually getting over taken by better drivers. But I think the chassis had the speed needed to place very well.

I am very happy with things. Need to practice, practice practice.

Sakuraszero

just ceased the motor in the s lol dont brushless motors last long?

sporadicidiocy

I'm using the old motor mount "foot" along with two 2mm spacers and a M3X8mm button head screw to act as the battery standoff. Actually using two of these now because for some reason I have another "foot" leftover
Had to raise the rearward one with a 2mm spacer plus some other leftover part (conveniently pink as well) since towards the center pulley the belt is a little higher there. Looks pretty nice... even more pink than before

On-Road-Boy

iTrader: (2)

Thanks all sorted

6376vette

Have to strongly disagree here. the titanium screws have weak heads and will snap off leaving the thread in the hole. especially the countersunk heads but the button heads do it too. maybe a different titanium screw would work better but I would stay with steel.

6376vette

What seized? Bearings stator or rotor? aren't you doing speed runs with your car and a mod motor?

Kevin Marcy

I've had good luck with the Turnigy 6000mAh "Nanotech" batteries which they rate at 65~130C. The track I race at has about a 180' straightaway, and mod cars are probably hitting 50-55mph. I've only put a 3.5T motor in it once, and it hit 56mph (by radar gun) at the halfway point of the straight. Then the rotor exploded and it went from 56 to zero in about 30' (I think the previous owner of the motor may have over-cooked it). Anyway, the gearing I mentioned in the earlier post was for running a 7 minute race with a 4.5T motor. If you're just trying to get top speed and aren't worried about motor temperature after a long run (and have a lot of room to "wind it out"), you might want to start in the 6-7 FDR range. But it's better to start with a higher ratio (smaller pinion) and work your way down to find the performance you want. Pinion gears are much cheaper than motors, ESCs or batteries.

Speed Passion

I forgot to mention a 2mm spacer on the bottom. I use the same exact setup on the back also so it looks symmetrical even though in the front the belt is lower, on the rear the belt it higher but this configuration still easily clears it. I don't know what the latest battery dimensions are today; I'm using a 2s that fit's exactly no play. Using a Zippy lightmax 4000mah that is 46mm depth so fits perfectly.

You can probably do different ball cup configurations and screw lenghts to make it perect. The metal ones that come on the kit are longer I believe, so if you have a gap still those work also (where I got the idea with in the first place), but have to use a different ball cup like the ones on the shocks. I use this configuration as need less washers and it's taller. I pop on a large antenna cap (cut to size) to extend the gap more for my 3s which is smaller in width.

Hope that helps.