skyball

Hey mingnon,

you're car looks really cool. Can you tell us the manufacturer and name of that body?

mingnon

iTrader: (12)

its the 1966 Ford Mustang GT - HPI part number 17519
http://www.hpieurope.com/piw.php?lang=en&partNo=17519

painted with
3 x thin hand sprays of Tamiya Clear Red Polycarbonate paint (thanks to a great pan can racer for the paint tips - Mr Choades)
then backed with 2 x coats Tamiya White
all the stripes etc are the standard decals that come with the bodyshell.
Wanted to paint the stripes but im lousy at masking so didnt want to bother. Liked the body so much and didnt want to wreck it so have now moved it to drifter chassis, and it allways gets some looks.

have now gone to HPI Racing 68 Camaro HPI 7494 (see attached pic) and doing one for fun thats a Parma 1961 Chevy Impala Body with a Chicago Police theme. All on the Sakura Zero S chassis, they fit well :-)

aquito

how did u get it for $119? it gives me $129 with tax and free shipping?

4bigkidtoys30

Hi Aquito,
I live in Colorado, out of state buys don't charge tax, if you live in California there will be tax!!! Hope this explains why you had tax.

thefan

iTrader: (3)

Has anyone tried removing screws on the top plate as per the setup sheet and if so which ones and what benefit is there in doing so?

Thomaseh

I run with only four screws in the top plate. It gives me a little bit smoother car with my current setup. Rubber 13.5T blinky esc.

thefan

iTrader: (3)

Do you remove the inside screws and leave the closest ones to the shock towers?

Thomaseh

That is correct. I have tried almost every combination, but with this I had most success

texastc

iTrader: (2)

Zero for sale here

wollow86

iTrader: (7)

It's taken me longer then I thought to get a chance to check... But I can confirm the XI and XI DH chassis will work on the Zero S/Zero.

All the bulkhead screws line up, and the suspension block screws. The motor mount screws are in the same pattern, but moved about 3mm forward (as it was from Zero to XI). Steering is the same. I compared to an XI chassis, and the steering is slightly further back on the XI, but the DH chassis is moved forward compared to the XI so should line up.

So all the zero s parts should work on an XI chassis, just moved to the XI configuration.

Also, the split blocks would require you to drill out and counter sink on a zero s or XI chassis where the pins from the block would normally go, but the pins from the standard blocks do line up with the screw holes on the DH chassis. So basically you can use the split blocks on any chassis with mods, or use standard blocks on the DH chassis.

Hope that's useful for you all.

aquito

Just got mine in the mail a couple of days ago and it's been a pain in the ass to build it, I already stripped an allen screw and I'm waiting to get a new part that broke during built...this is my first and last build from now on only RTR lol

luda

iTrader: (6)

I found the build pretty straight forward. Perhaps check your tools aren't doing damage and that you're not over tightening the parts.

Team_Krusty

iTrader: (3)

I think the problem with the build is that you basically have to 'cut' the thread into all the plastic and with 10mm screws everywhere it is a lesson in patience and sore hands lol.

Simon

luda

iTrader: (6)

true that. Alloy upgrades help as I have noticed since doing some upgrades.

Thomaseh

Attended to my second race ever, first 13.5T blinky race officially arranged here in Norway. Only 5 drivers, 3 of us driving Sakura Zero from the same club 1. Place went to Sakura, 2. place went to TOP Photon. 3. place for me and 4. place for the other Sakura. The track was really bumpy, the asphalt was 11 years old, but hell yeah. It was awesome to see the car doing just as well as the TOP car. I even beat him in the 1. final