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Old 04-01-2012, 10:16 PM   #1426
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I got ya, that's what has attracted me to the zero as well. Plus I've always wanted to try one out....
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Old 04-01-2012, 11:11 PM   #1427
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Few pages ago, some guy fitted 416 shock towers to the S.
I have a set of TRF Shocks lying around and was planning to put on a new Zero S using this towers.

http://www.rcmart.com/tamiya-84086-t...h=595_744_1230
http://www.rcmart.com/tamiya-84087-t...h=595_744_1230

Somebody know if they fit???
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Old 04-02-2012, 12:47 AM   #1428
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Well I just pulled the Trigger on the S !!

All in all I have $270 all wrapped up in the car with about $10 in shipping. That's the kit with all the extra's I thought I might need for the season. Plus some upgrades, vertical motor mount, aluminum center pulley, 19t center gears, titanium turnbuckles, full spring and F/R sway bar sets with the mounting hardware.

I'll be racing it in 2-weeks. I'll be sure to post my thoughts.
Thanks for all the Help Guys!!
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Old 04-02-2012, 06:30 AM   #1429
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Race Report:
Outdoor Asphalt, Hot Sunny Day, Medium Grip
Large track, flowing with 2 180* turns
Vintage Trans Am class, 68 Camaro body, no spoiler (VTA guys will get this inside joke)
Qualified 4th, Finished 4th out of 9

Problems: On Power Push, Especially coming out of the hair pins
Sluggish turn in, just feels like i can't be agressive going into the turns

Attempted Solution #1: Switched to AE Green Springs up front, AE Gold springs in the rear

Thoughts: Meh. On Power push felt slightly better, but turn in still sucked

Attempted Solution #2: I purchased the roll center adjustment shims. They are pretty nice and easy to use. I place the .5 shims under the front of the rear arm mounts to get some anti-squat in an attempt to get more on-power steering.

Thoughts: Meh, again. Slight difference, but it still wasn't getting to the aggressive setup i like to drive. In contrast, I ran my old TC3 in a second VTA class the track is running and that setup suited my driving style much better.

Attempted Solution #3: Ackerman. Box stock setup has the steering links perpendicular the the centerline of the chassis. On my TC3, i noticed that they angle forward from the steering rack to the knuckles. I think i read that 6376Vette changed his from the stock setup as well, so i figured what the heck. I changed the location of the ballstud on the knuckle so that the arms angle forward. Checked my toe so i still had some toe out and went racing.

Thoughts: FINALLY! I've got some aggressive turn in. I felt much more confident with my steering input and could take the hair pins much tighter. I also gained on-power oversteer. Oops. Some of the turns if i accelerated really hard the rear wanted to slide out from under me. Knowing that, next race i'll switch the rear springs to AE Blue. Which is funny, because that's the spring setup on my TC3. One other thing about this change, i had to dial back the dual rate on my radio. On my M8, i think i'm down to 60%.
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Old 04-02-2012, 07:06 AM   #1430
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In case anyone is looking, I've just posted a NIB Sakura Zero S kit for sale on this forum.
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Old 04-02-2012, 08:22 AM   #1431
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Any idea where I can get these wheels?
I've never seen them before.

3Racing Sakura Zero S-sakura-wheels.jpg

3Racing Sakura Zero S-sakura-zero-wheels.jpg

The tires look stretched out though, probably not a good choice for racing.....
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Old 04-02-2012, 03:41 PM   #1432
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pejota View Post
Race Report:
Outdoor Asphalt, Hot Sunny Day, Medium Grip
Large track, flowing with 2 180* turns
Vintage Trans Am class, 68 Camaro body, no spoiler (VTA guys will get this inside joke)
Qualified 4th, Finished 4th out of 9

Problems: On Power Push, Especially coming out of the hair pins
Sluggish turn in, just feels like i can't be agressive going into the turns

Attempted Solution #1: Switched to AE Green Springs up front, AE Gold springs in the rear

Thoughts: Meh. On Power push felt slightly better, but turn in still sucked

Attempted Solution #2: I purchased the roll center adjustment shims. They are pretty nice and easy to use. I place the .5 shims under the front of the rear arm mounts to get some anti-squat in an attempt to get more on-power steering.

Thoughts: Meh, again. Slight difference, but it still wasn't getting to the aggressive setup i like to drive. In contrast, I ran my old TC3 in a second VTA class the track is running and that setup suited my driving style much better.

Attempted Solution #3: Ackerman. Box stock setup has the steering links perpendicular the the centerline of the chassis. On my TC3, i noticed that they angle forward from the steering rack to the knuckles. I think i read that 6376Vette changed his from the stock setup as well, so i figured what the heck. I changed the location of the ballstud on the knuckle so that the arms angle forward. Checked my toe so i still had some toe out and went racing.

Thoughts: FINALLY! I've got some aggressive turn in. I felt much more confident with my steering input and could take the hair pins much tighter. I also gained on-power oversteer. Oops. Some of the turns if i accelerated really hard the rear wanted to slide out from under me. Knowing that, next race i'll switch the rear springs to AE Blue. Which is funny, because that's the spring setup on my TC3. One other thing about this change, i had to dial back the dual rate on my radio. On my M8, i think i'm down to 60%.
Awesome that you got it handling to your liking. I like aggressive turn in too. I think I may have actually found tons of aggressive corner exit too.

I was running Saturday and my new v2 diff apparently wasn't sealed too good. At the four minute mark all of the fluid was gone and the rear was really loose. Especially on corner exit. I found that if I stayed in the throttle it handled well enough to stay on the track. To my suprise I stayed on the throttle more than I thought I should and the car became a rocket out of the turns. I got all of my braking done on the straight and started the turn at 50% throttle. I was 100% in the gas by the time I reached apex. No corner exit push the car just pulled like a horse. Can't wait to try it with a full diff. I will be sure to report but this may put a dent in the coast the turns theory.
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Old 04-02-2012, 06:18 PM   #1433
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Midget View Post
Any idea where I can get these wheels?
I've never seen them before.

Attachment 902468

Attachment 902469

The tires look stretched out though, probably not a good choice for racing.....
Not sure about the rims, but They are DS racing drift tires. So definitely not a good choice for racing!!
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Last edited by BCZero; 04-02-2012 at 06:26 PM. Reason: Extra info
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Old 04-06-2012, 10:52 AM   #1434
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Stinks your in CANADA SteveM it would cost me more than new to pick that up from ya..
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Old 04-06-2012, 01:01 PM   #1435
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGTRUX View Post
Stinks your in CANADA SteveM it would cost me more than new to pick that up from ya..
I had a guy in Pennsylvania interested and the shipping to there is $24. Compares pretty closely to what I see on eBay.
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Old 04-06-2012, 04:04 PM   #1436
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I have noticed that a few guys have reported leaking diffs do they leak at the gasket or around the outdrive o-ring?
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Old 04-06-2012, 07:43 PM   #1437
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I know it's been posted before but don't remrber when or where, what optional parts are recommended for the Zero S, motor mounts, gears and the such ?

Also who in the US in selling this car ?

thanks
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Old 04-06-2012, 08:02 PM   #1438
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www.tqrcracing.com

The usual upgrades are the vertical motor mount, 19t pulley, and the aluminum gear adaptor that allow you to use the 19t pulley.

Other good ones are the aluminum wheel hexes and titanium turnbuckles.

I would also get 1mm and .5mm spacers, c-hubs, steering knuckles, rear uprights and suspension arms just to have in the tool box.

It comes with a 48 pitch spur, but i've switched over to the 3racing 92 tooth spur in 64 pitch.
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Old 04-06-2012, 09:43 PM   #1439
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thefan View Post
I have noticed that a few guys have reported leaking diffs do they leak at the gasket or around the outdrive o-ring?
Usually it is at the main seal.When you drive the screws in for the first time it mounds up the plastic around the hole. Simple fix. Run the screws in then take them out. File the plastic around the holes flush and everything should seal properly.
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Old 04-07-2012, 06:56 PM   #1440
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I just picked up my kit for vta and was wondering what pinion size to use with a 25.5t motor ? Its cool that it comes with 48p since i have few of them already .

what is the differences between 48 and 64p drive wise ?
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