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Old 03-18-2012, 03:28 PM   #1381
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Originally Posted by Thomaseh View Post
So I bought this http://www.rcmart.com/rc-sakurazero-...=595_1419_1467 and now I cant get the rear higher than 4mm when the shocks are turned so much out that I have no more adjustment.
Anybody got any idea whats wrong?
The +4 shock towers are 4mm higher than the "regular" ones. Sakura shocks are shorter than "normal" shocks. Using the +4mm shock towers allows you to use "normal" shocks. But raising the upper mount point 4mm and using the "short" shocks means you don't get enough travel on the arms. Basically, you need to use longer shocks if you use the +4 shock towers.
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Old 03-19-2012, 03:36 AM   #1382
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Lol, when you say it like that I understand!
Talked to my local hoobyshop who got them without +4mm and they will trade them in for me
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Old 03-19-2012, 01:00 PM   #1383
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Ran both Sakuras this weekend--
VTA and RCGT (17.5, no boost, X-Patterns, HPI Mazda RX7 190mm body)

Bumpy asphalt, low traction, prepped by blowing then sprayed with grape soda/maple syrup mix

Both cars were loose on corner exit while accelerating. Dialed the Dual rate way back which helped some.

I was running Team Associated Silver fronts, Gold rears. Changed both cars to have Blues in the rear.

RCGT car responded well to this change. I was able to turn enough laps to finish 3rd or 4th if i was running with the TC guys. Finished first in both my heats, but chewed a spur before the main.

VTA felt much better after this change, but I wasn't 100% dialed. The car pushed on the two 180* turns at the track. I'd like to blame this on the bald VTA tires (the hobby shop I ordered from dropped the ball on their "in stock" VTA tires). In hindsight, I should have tried softer front springs, but I could still drive the car to P4 qualifying slot and finished on the podium in 3rd.

Two things i want to try...
Sway bars- anyone using them and give me an idea of which ones to start with?
Front Spool- can i just buy the shiny purple part or do i need the white gear (from the ball diff assembly) to go with it?

@6376vette- I didn't get a chance to try the 2* blocks yet. I wasn't 100% happy with the spring choices and bald tires so i just drove through those issues.
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Old 03-19-2012, 01:18 PM   #1384
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Originally Posted by pejota View Post
Two things i want to try...
Sway bars- anyone using them and give me an idea of which ones to start with?
Front Spool- can i just buy the shiny purple part or do i need the white gear (from the ball diff assembly) to go with it?
I run indoors on a carpet track and use Sorex 28R tires with medium inserts, kit springs and AE 40 wt shock oil. I have tried the lightest sway bars on my Sakura front & rear and didn't like them at all. My car was too twitchy and I removed them.

I was running the stock gear diff filled with Ofna Diff Locker (OFN10230) that makes the front virtually a spool. I've since switched to the actual spool and the car seems harder to drive consistently now. You need to purchase three seperate items to build the front spool. 1) SAK-02 - 38T white pulley; 2) SAK-09 - Solid Axle Outer Joint (2); and 3) SAK-08/PK - Front Solid Axle

There is a new part coming soon
SAK-09/HD that should help make the front spool even better.

Last edited by SteveM; 03-20-2012 at 06:59 AM.
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Old 03-19-2012, 02:39 PM   #1385
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Originally Posted by pejota View Post
Ran both Sakuras this weekend--
VTA and RCGT (17.5, no boost, X-Patterns, HPI Mazda RX7 190mm body)

Bumpy asphalt, low traction, prepped by blowing then sprayed with grape soda/maple syrup mix

Both cars were loose on corner exit while accelerating. Dialed the Dual rate way back which helped some.

I was running Team Associated Silver fronts, Gold rears. Changed both cars to have Blues in the rear.

RCGT car responded well to this change. I was able to turn enough laps to finish 3rd or 4th if i was running with the TC guys. Finished first in both my heats, but chewed a spur before the main.

VTA felt much better after this change, but I wasn't 100% dialed. The car pushed on the two 180* turns at the track. I'd like to blame this on the bald VTA tires (the hobby shop I ordered from dropped the ball on their "in stock" VTA tires). In hindsight, I should have tried softer front springs, but I could still drive the car to P4 qualifying slot and finished on the podium in 3rd.

Two things i want to try...
Sway bars- anyone using them and give me an idea of which ones to start with?
Front Spool- can i just buy the shiny purple part or do i need the white gear (from the ball diff assembly) to go with it?

@6376vette- I didn't get a chance to try the 2* blocks yet. I wasn't 100% happy with the spring choices and bald tires so i just drove through those issues.
Great update. I will be converting mine to usgt this week so the tuning info is greatly appreciated.

If you have a solid understanding of tuning your chassis, and it sounds like you do, then go for the sway bars. They work great when used properly. To anyone who doesn't have a full grasp of all of your other tuning options hold off on the sway bars. They can complicate things.

We run on high traction carpet and I am currently using the stiffest sway bar in the front (5 stripe) and the softest in the rear 2 stripe) on my vta car. they really give you a great tuning option. Instead of making spring and oil changes to make the car a little better you can change the sway bar for mild changes. I will make a small sway bar change to keep up with track conditions as they change throughout the race day.
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Old 03-19-2012, 02:45 PM   #1386
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Pejota, SteveM is bang in with the parts for front spool. But get a second pair of solid axle outer joints as spares, that's the part that wil break if you crash. I've done it twice on my XI (exactly the same spool).

The spool will give you more corner exit steering, but less entry steering, the car will also push more while breaking. It will be harder to drive then the heavy diff, but potentially faster over a lap depending on the track layout.

The sway bars start at 1.4 I think for the kit bars in the zero/XI. Mainly they will help the car transition better, and can make a surprising difference to the cars balance. I was running 1.2 front and 1.4 rear for more entry grip into se high speed corners at my home track, but on a tighter track I found the car was pushing to much on the direction change for back to back hairpins, so I went back to 1.4 and it was better.

For the rear end on corner exit I've found you do need a bigger front to rear difference in springs with the zero s then the XI. On a similar surface I'm using the 3racing 5.5 fronts and 6.0 rears, but on the zero s it was 5.5 to 6.5. That's with the standard zero rear arms though. The harder front spring will also make the car push more.

Are you using the narrow rear blocks? Or narrow arms? If not grab a pair of the XI rear arms. From memory that's SAK-01X or something. They do generate more rear grip. By the sounds of your cars handling you don't want to try the 2* rear toe yet. That will have less rear grip then the 3*, but if you do find more grip the car will rotate better with 2*.
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Old 03-19-2012, 02:46 PM   #1387
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As far as the spool. definitely go for it. I have locked the front diff with putty and it worked great but then I changed to the spool. Man what a difference. I increased my acceleration out of the corner and decreased my lap times. It may make the car a little twitchy on corner exit but once you get used to it you will definitely love the improvement. Remember you are transferring the power quicker because of the reduction in rotating mass. The car will pull harder when you hit the gas.

Once you install the spool keep an eye on the axles and cups. You will experience more wear on these components but I think its worth it.

Oh and you will need the spool, gear, and the outdrive cups.
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Old 03-19-2012, 07:50 PM   #1388
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Thanks all...

I had a spool in my FT TC4 which is why i'm asking about it for the S. I loved the acceleration off the corner.

To compensate for the lack of turn in, i went with a 2* castor hub on my TC4 and loved it. I've heard that the Xray c-hubs are a direct fit for the S, so i might try the same thing with my S when i get to it.

The reason for the sway bars was my sloppy handling in the chicane... the car was coming directly at me on the driver's stand and it was like watching Kate Upton in slow motion. (yes, i had to YouTube her to see what all the fuss was about)

@Wollow-- both of my cars are basically box stock...

Two interesting things from the weekend...
1. Both of my cars have the same setup on them. The X-Pattern tires make the GT car more planted so i'm interested to see what fresh HPI Vintage tires will do.

2. A guy came up to me to see which car i was driving. He thought it was one of best looking cars out there. I told him it was a Sakura S and only cost me $120 bucks. He said it looked better than his TC6.1
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Old 03-19-2012, 08:23 PM   #1389
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Thanks all...

I had a spool in my FT TC4 which is why i'm asking about it for the S. I loved the acceleration off the corner.

To compensate for the lack of turn in, i went with a 2* castor hub on my TC4 and loved it. I've heard that the Xray c-hubs are a direct fit for the S, so i might try the same thing with my S when i get to it.

The reason for the sway bars was my sloppy handling in the chicane... the car was coming directly at me on the driver's stand and it was like watching Kate Upton in slow motion. (yes, i had to YouTube her to see what all the fuss was about)

@Wollow-- both of my cars are basically box stock...

Two interesting things from the weekend...
1. Both of my cars have the same setup on them. The X-Pattern tires make the GT car more planted so i'm interested to see what fresh HPI Vintage tires will do.

2. A guy came up to me to see which car i was driving. He thought it was one of best looking cars out there. I told him it was a Sakura S and only cost me $120 bucks. He said it looked better than his TC6.1
Be sure to scuff in those fresh vta tires. they don't handle until that are worn in a little. A few minutes on the street should do the trick.
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Old 03-21-2012, 10:31 PM   #1390
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Can someone help me out with vta gearing. I am going to get the 19t pulleys. What is the largest pinion that will work with the stock mount and spur? Should I just go 64p from the get go?
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Old 03-22-2012, 06:02 AM   #1391
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This is a little unorthodox, but here's what i'm running.

stock 20 tooth pulley
optional 37 tooth gears front and rear, that gives me a 1.85 internal ratio
64 pitch, 94 tooth spur
geared about 3.8 or so, cant' remember off the top of my head.

I have yet to switch over to the vertical mount, so the motor mount screws are a bit of a pain, but i'm finding that the 94 tooth spur puts my motor in just about the middle of the motor mounts so i have plenty of adjustments left.

Hopefully others chime in, i think gearing and spurs is something we haven't discussed much



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Can someone help me out with vta gearing. I am going to get the 19t pulleys. What is the largest pinion that will work with the stock mount and spur? Should I just go 64p from the get go?
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Old 03-22-2012, 06:09 AM   #1392
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Can someone help me out with vta gearing. I am going to get the 19t pulleys. What is the largest pinion that will work with the stock mount and spur? Should I just go 64p from the get go?
Go 64 pitch. I'm using a 88 spur with the 19 tooth pulleys and the 38 tooth diff gears for a 2.0 internal ratio. I have run from a 3.7 FDR to a 4.25 FDR and never came close to maxing out the adjustment of the vertical motor mount. The 88 spur also gives you a nice selection of pinions that most shops stock. I usually use a 42 to 47 pinion.
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Old 03-22-2012, 06:15 AM   #1393
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64P gears is the way to go for sure and I'm running 90T spur and 42T pinion with the 19T center pulleys for a FDR of 4.286. I run 17.5 blinky sedan class.

The VTA class uses a different motor and tire set so you will likely need to make some adjustments to the gearing.
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Old 03-22-2012, 06:23 AM   #1394
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64P gears is the way to go for sure and I'm running 90T spur and 42T pinion with the 19T center pulleys for a FDR of 4.286. I run 17.5 blinky sedan class.

The VTA class uses a different motor and tire set so you will likely need to make some adjustments to the gearing.
Vta uses a FDR of 3.6 to 4.2 in most situations. Recommended to start at 4.0 and adjust from there.
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Old 03-22-2012, 11:49 PM   #1395
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building vta racer using sakura zero s

Gearing that i'm using is

- 37tooth rear diff housing (optional)
- 37 tooth tamiya front pulley on front solid axle (sak08)
- 20 tooth centre pulleys
This allows it to have a 1.85 ratio

Vertical motor mount
CF topplate
Out of the box chassis
SAK-U05 aluminium gear adaptor - have modified this by filing off two of the gear pegs. This means that the spur gear is held by two screws not four. BUT it allows a 56/58/60/62/64 RW spur gear to be fitted (48pitch), currently running 58tooth

So far have fitted 41tooth pinion (48pitch).
BUT
with a little dremel work on the vertical motor mount am fairly certain will be able to fit 43/44 pinion.

At our local track we run 21.5 blinky, on med grip, technical track.
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