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Old 02-17-2012, 06:44 AM   #1276
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thanks orcadigital for the detailed response. I think I will forget about stocking spare suspension parts and go for the xray bumper. I plan on using a 23t pinion so i don't think the vertical mount wouldn't be needed.
NP. If you are running 48p and the stock spur, you are golden, no need to change mounts. There are several larger spurs that 3Racing makes that have the holes in then to get to the motor mount screw. The reason the issue comes up so much, is many Sakura's (at the price point they have) are great VTA cars (new Sakura Zero = used TC3/TC4). We run fairly aggressive FDR's (4.0 and lower) and to get there, you have to run a smaller spur. I am running an 84t 64p spur right now, which is about as small as I can go with the spur gear holder. Smaller, and the corners of the holder would interfere with the teeth.

The nice thing sticking with the stock mount, no modifications needed to the top deck or battery mounting.
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Old 02-17-2012, 06:46 AM   #1277
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Don't give up on spares. Murphy's Law......you will only break the part you don't have.
Unless it's an FGX, in which case you will just break MORE then you have...
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Old 02-17-2012, 07:38 AM   #1278
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Unless it's an FGX, in which case you will just break MORE then you have...
How the words of truth are so painful. At least I have only broken 2 rear arms since I got the rabbit. Racing is more fun than repairing.
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Old 02-17-2012, 07:42 AM   #1279
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My club won't allow us to run the FGX and we're stuck with the F104 only.
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Old 02-17-2012, 07:59 AM   #1280
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How the words of truth are so painful. At least I have only broken 2 rear arms since I got the rabbit. Racing is more fun than repairing.
That is true. It is nice to see you actually able to spend time tuning instead of rebuilding the front end with all new parts over and over.

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My club won't allow us to run the FGX and we're stuck with the F104 only.
Not to hijack the Zero thread, but how come? UF1 and the big series all seem to consider them comparabile. I think only the F201 is separate due to being 4WD, and obviously the pan cars with.
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Old 02-17-2012, 08:12 AM   #1281
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Not to hijack the Zero thread, but how come? UF1 and the big series all seem to consider them comparabile. I think only the F201 is separate due to being 4WD, and obviously the pan cars with.
The club uses the Canadian TCS rules for the F-1 class and for 2012 the rules allow only the F104 chassis. The F103, F201 and even the F104W are not allowed. Same goes for any F-1 chassis from other manufacturers like 3Racing.
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Old 02-17-2012, 08:26 AM   #1282
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Well, we dont have an F1 class at all! We struggle to get enough people to drive the only 1/10 onroad electric class we have in Norway, which is 1/10 Modified!
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Old 02-17-2012, 10:29 AM   #1283
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SAK-06 is in stock at 3Racing, ordered one right away.
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Old 02-17-2012, 10:42 AM   #1284
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SAK-06 is in stock at 3Racing, ordered one right away.
Thanks for the heads-up. Ordered mine as well.
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Old 02-17-2012, 01:52 PM   #1285
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I wish 3 racing built in more durability to the fgx like they did the zero and f109. Its still a fun car but it took a lot of work to make it durable.

For the guys that don't have a f1 class I'm sorry. You're really missing out. The f1 cars are as much fun as the zero but they are a lot different to drive.

Too bad they limited you to f104 only. There are some great chassis and great conversions available and none have an edge over the other. Sounds like someone made a deal with tamiya to promote thier cars.

Thanks Grant. It feels a lot better to tune and race the car instead of worrying about breaking it. Open wheels have their obstacles but what I went through was ridiculous.

Funny there is more talk about f1 racing on this thread then the fgx thread. A lot of talk about chassis conversions of the week over there. Sorry guys. Back to the zero.
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Old 02-19-2012, 11:40 PM   #1286
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im thinking of ordering a graphite chassis but not sure what one to order
I run on carpet
do i need any other parts to make the chassis fit?
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Old 02-20-2012, 12:45 AM   #1287
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Default Front belt rubbibg against chassis

I just finished building a sakura s and I found it's front belt is rubbibg against the chassis just under the steering assembly.. Any idea how to solve this?


By dmz_dx at 2012-02-19
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Old 02-20-2012, 04:35 AM   #1288
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I just finished building a sakura s and I found it's front belt is rubbibg against the chassis just under the steering assembly.. Any idea how to solve this?
I just finished building mine as well, but do not have that problem.
Maybe a file will work? or raising your diff?
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Old 02-20-2012, 06:24 AM   #1289
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I'm not sure, but perhaps you have the belt adjustment in the wrong spot? Check that first...that the notches are where they say they're suppose to be.

Becuase these cars are made of FRP the tolerances might not be great and why there's build variation from one person to the next.

As long as the belt is not touching. Go with it! If it's touching perhaps lightly sand the chassis with 600 to round the edges in that spot.
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Old 02-20-2012, 08:09 AM   #1290
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Is there a metal alternative for the plastic outdrives on the front spool? I've jut snapped mine with a light impact?
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