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Old 02-15-2012, 06:26 AM   #1246
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Ok so I am going to bight the bullet and get a 3 racing sakura s

The descriptions are not clear does it come with a servo saver and does it come with a pinion and spur gear? If yes, what tooth count and pitch?

I will be using a 8.5t 4000kv motor with 2s and 3s, what parts should I keep as spares? I am thinking I would need a spare set of belts, center pulleys and diff pulleys. Anything else.

This looks like it will be a hell of a good basher and parts are cheap so I think this is the car for me
Just to add to this. The servo saver that comes with the car is weak. Get something else, Kimbrough at least, or an Xray at best. If you are going to be bashing with it, get the Xray T2/T3 Hard Front Bumper. It is a bolt on, and worth every bit of the $14 it costs. This is my first TC that I had to replace front plastics because they wore out, and not from breaking them.

If you are getting spare diff pulleys, I would recommend getting the diff plastics kit for the V2, which comes with a 37 and 38t pulley. If you run the 37's, you will not need the 19t pulley conversion for the layshaft (which parts are scarce on currently). If you want to run a spool down the road, you can get a 37t pulley for it from Tamiya.

For running the kind of power you are talking about, I would also consider getting CV axles for the back to replace the dog bones. 44mm are a perfect fit. Also, make sure and get aluminum hexes. 5mm is stock, but they are available in 4-7mm. You will tear through the plastic stock ones in no time with an 8.5.
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Old 02-15-2012, 12:01 PM   #1247
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Originally Posted by luda View Post
Just got a zero s and it had a 48p 80t spur and no pinion.
+1, not sure where the other numbers came from. 48p 80t was the stock spur.
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Old 02-15-2012, 01:43 PM   #1248
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Originally Posted by FauxMako View Post
+1, not sure where the other numbers came from. 48p 80t was the stock spur.
Your right, I got confused with the F109 I got at the same time. I switched to 64 pitch during the build, My bad.
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Old 02-15-2012, 01:46 PM   #1249
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Default silvercan help and help

silvercan help
i seen that some ppl said fdr of 4.? and others said 7.?
so im just getting rdy to order this car and would like to know what spur/pinion i should be starting with/?
has any one used the front oneway? does it help?
do i need pivot balls and extra belts? do they wear out fast?
i notice that no one has the gear adpt. (its sold out) so if i change the dif to 37 this will work as well? (so what oil should be use in the difs?)front7000&back10000
does any one have setup sheets for this chassis?
any tips for setting this chassis up for silver can gt would be great

thanks
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Old 02-15-2012, 01:59 PM   #1250
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Originally Posted by urban View Post
silvercan help
i seen that some ppl said fdr of 4.? and others said 7.?
so im just getting rdy to order this car and would like to know what spur/pinion i should be starting with/?
has any one used the front oneway? does it help?
do i need pivot balls and extra belts? do they wear out fast?
i notice that no one has the gear adpt. (its sold out) so if i change the dif to 37 this will work as well? (so what oil should be use in the difs?)front7000&back10000
does any one have setup sheets for this chassis?
any tips for setting this chassis up for silver can gt would be great

thanks
No idea on a silvercan. Touring and Boosted touring will be running between 5 and 8 FDR, where VTA and USGT will be between 3 and 4.5. Faster motor, higher FDR.

I have a front one-way, never used it. Front spool is great on our indoor carpet track. I would stick to a diff, and get a spool if you would like another tuning option. Skip the one-way for now.

I have not worn out belts, nor has anyone I know. We are running VTA, and the lower power contributes. Pivot balls for inside the hinge pin braces? Good to get if you break something, but not something I have ever worn out on any car.

That is the case, and yes the 37t pulleys will solve the belt tension issues, but not the spur gear wobble.

Diff oil, I would start with 100k in the front, and 1-2k in the back (2k comes with the car).

I posted my setup a few pages back, but for the most part, there is not a lot of setup sheets out there. There are lots of people willing to help, but the car is not established enough, and has no team drivers to assist with that.

Just go box stock, and post questions on handling from there.
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Old 02-15-2012, 07:07 PM   #1251
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would Associate springs tc3 work on stock shocks
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Old 02-16-2012, 12:12 AM   #1252
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Hey Urban.
I may be able to help you with setup - sakura s/ silvercan.
These setups are when running on low grip asphalt with outside temps approx 30*c here in New Zealand.

camber; front - 2*, rear 2*
toe; front 1* out, rear 0
caster; std kit
ride height; 5mm front and rear.
downstop settings; front 4, rear 5
shock settings; front no. 3 hole, rear no. 6 hole.
gear diff front and rear with 2000 oil in front and 800/900 rear.
shock piston; 3 hole front and rear.
shock oil; muchmore 350 front and rear.
springs; front 3 racing t6, rear 3 racing 6.5.
spur; 72
pinion; 33
fdr; 4.14
pulleys; std kit = 38t front and rear with 20t centre = ir 1.9.
wheels; 3 racing.
tyres; sorex 24/28
This setup works well for me at the moment.

Hope this helps
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Old 02-16-2012, 02:12 AM   #1253
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thanks all for the quick replies

so here is the list i have came up with
front uprights
rear uprights
c hubs
front belt
rear belt
gear diff pulley
ta05v.2 19t center pulleys (whats wrong with the 3 racing optional 19t center pulleys)
swing shaft protectors
CVD's (anyone know what size the the stock diff and are the diff have metal?)
vertical motor mount (what was wrong with the original)
xray bumper
metal hexes

A bit more than I expected but looks less than if I got a Ta05.v2

thanks
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Old 02-16-2012, 02:30 AM   #1254
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3 racing are out of the sak06 so you won't be able to use the 19t centre yet. The vertical motor mount is to make mounting the motor easier when using the larger pinion and smaller spur combos from what I can see.
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Old 02-16-2012, 02:55 AM   #1255
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double post.....
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Old 02-16-2012, 04:46 AM   #1256
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Questions??

Quote:
Originally Posted by orcadigital View Post
My understanding is that the Zero is discontinued, but the S is alive and strong. I see nothing that shows otherwise, and so many parts being backordered only shows the popularity of the car.

That being said, I have an S that is about to be for sale (never run, has the "necessary" upgrades, 19t pulleys, vert motor mount, alum hexes) and will be selling my full Zero with all upgrades (Xray bumper, TC6 balls and ends, ECS axles) in the next month or so.
How much will you be selling for? I am in the market currently for such a car.
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Old 02-16-2012, 09:43 AM   #1257
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TB03Racer09 View Post
thanks all for the quick replies

so here is the list i have came up with
front uprights
rear uprights
c hubs
front belt
rear belt
gear diff pulley
ta05v.2 19t center pulleys (whats wrong with the 3 racing optional 19t center pulleys)
swing shaft protectors
CVD's (anyone know what size the the stock diff and are the diff have metal?)
vertical motor mount (what was wrong with the original)
xray bumper
metal hexes
thanks
Just an FYI, I have yet to break any front plastics with the Xray bumper. Another guy at the track without one broke stuff almost nightly. Since he did the bumper, he has not had any broken pieces that I know of.

I put the replacement belts on from day 1, as they are more woven, less rubber. I assume that is the low friction bit. Hardly necessary, and I do not think breaking belts is a common thing (I have yet to see anyone in our club do it, and we have 5 regular running Zero's.

Here is the thing with the drive train. Stock is 38t diff pulleys, 20t layshaft pulley. Out of the box, it is tighter then I am compfortable with, many people disagree. The second piece of it, is that the stock layshaft pulley/spur gear holder is all one piece. It is also plastic and a bit wobbly. It won't fail, nor will the diff pulleys, but for freeing up the drivetrain, it is those little things that help (belt tension as well). Changing the layshaft setup to the 19t pulleys (3Racing are great, have on both of my cars) is the best way to do it, though it requires 3 pieces, the 19t pulleys, the alum spur gear holder, and the new shaft with the spacers (the spacers being the tough part to find, the shaft is the same as stock). With the backorder status on the layshaft conversion parts, the next best option is changing the diff pulleys to 37t. This gives you more appropriate belt tension, but does not solve the spur gear wobble. Is this better then just waiting for the layshaft bits to come available...hard to say. If you do go this route, and want to run a front spool, you will need to source the 37t pulley for the spool, which is a Tamiya part. Otherwise, use stock 38t stuff, and wait for the layshaft items to becomer available, and you are set.

Swing shaft protectors I assume you are refering to what most call "bone blades", little plastic C shaped pieces that go on the inner pins of the axles and serve as the wear surface between the outdrives and the axle pins. These only work on the V2 diffs, or if you get the V2 outdrives. Stock diff outdrives are steel, and made to mesh directly with the pins. V2 diffs have aluminum outdrives with a larger slot for the blades. Buying a V2 diff gives you 4 blades (you only need 2) and extras are not really an issue, especially initially.

CVD's. The car comes with 46mm front CVD's (steel), and 46mm rear dog bones. I am personally not a fan of dog bones, but that is totally a personal preference. I also narrowed my rear end of the car, so I upgraded the rear to 44mm steel CVD's. 44mm and 46mm will both work fine on a stock Zero, as well as one using narrow hinge pin blocks. If you use narrow blocks and the narrow arms, you need 44mm axles. Because of that, 44mm all around works fine, but there is no need to replace them out the outset as they are steel and quite durable.

The vertical motor mount is mostly a convienence, and literally refers to the orientation of the motor mount screws (vertical mount means the motor screws are top and bottom, horizontal means left and right, or front and back of the car). Many cars use a horizontal mount (Xray, TC6, Serpent, Tamiya, etc), but the spur gear mount is set up for those special spur gears that have the larger holes between the mounting holds and the teeth. This allows you to tighten the "rear" motor mount screw by passing the wrench through the spur gear in those holes. Unfortunately, most 64p gears, and most smaller spurs that are compatible with the 3Racing spur gear mount, do not have those holes. In that case, you have to set your gear mesh, tighten the front motor screw, then remove the spur gear assembly and tighten the second screw. Or you can drill a hole in your spur (assuming it is large enough, I am running an 84t 64p spur and there is no meat to do such a thing). The vertical motor mount provides 2 unobstructed motor mount screw locations for easy pinion and mesh adjustments. It also requires some slight modifications. You must flip the belts to the opposite side of stock, grind the top deck for clearance of the mount (easy 5 min with a dremel, or the carbon top deck fits without modification), and either grind or remove the inner battery hold down pieces (the belt is in the way now). The upfront time spent doing the modification is worth it the first time you have to change pinions or set your gear mesh though.

Xray hard bumper is awesome. I am modifying one for my new Serpent, as it has saved me from ever breaking a front plastic part on my car. Pretty awesome, and best $14 I have spent on the car.

Aluminum hexes are a necessity to me. From others running the plastic stock ones, even in 25.5 VTA, the pin indentations begin to hour-glass very quickly, leading to all kinds of wobble and inconsistency in breaking and accelerating (the wheels will be able to turn some number of degrees independently of the diff/drivetrain). 5mm is stock, and 3Racing has options from 4mm to 7mm. If you are unsure, get the 5mm ones, and know that you can add shims if necessary.

Sorry this got so long, just wanted to explain the advice given previously so you can move forward on the right track.

Grant
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Old 02-16-2012, 09:46 AM   #1258
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How much will you be selling for? I am in the market currently for such a car.
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Old 02-16-2012, 11:45 AM   #1259
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this is just a random question, but has anyone tried to run the smaller front pulley to get a overdrive of the front wheels?

What kind of changes to handling would that produce? Not that I'm looking to change it just struck me as a possible tuning option.

Cheers
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Old 02-16-2012, 11:51 AM   #1260
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Originally Posted by jdeadman View Post
this is just a random question, but has anyone tried to run the smaller front pulley to get a overdrive of the front wheels?

What kind of changes to handling would that produce? Not that I'm looking to change it just struck me as a possible tuning option.

Cheers
I assume drifters do this sort of thing, but for traction racing I am not sure I would see an advantage. Dunno though.
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