R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 02-04-2012, 07:04 AM   #1171
Tech Champion
 
nexxus's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Perth, Australia
Posts: 7,651
Trader Rating: 290 (100%+)
Default

Wow I run a lot more droop! For a 5.5mm ride height, I have droop set as 0 front and -4 rear

Mind you am struggling with on power over steer in VTA, would a Sway bar help (I have a pair but only one set of bulkhead mounts so I can only put one on, is it worthwhile, if so which one and where?)

Any other ideas to plant the rear end a tad? Got soft springs at rear 2nd hole from centre, Medium-Hard springs up front 2nd hole out, 2mm shims on roll centre on bulkhead, no shims on outside hubs, -1 camber front, -1.5 camber rear, 2 degrees toe out front 2 degrees toe in rear with narrow suspension blocks.
nexxus is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-04-2012, 07:52 AM   #1172
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Northeast GA
Posts: 1,685
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by nexxus View Post
Wow I run a lot more droop! For a 5.5mm ride height, I have droop set as 0 front and -4 rear

Mind you am struggling with on power over steer in VTA, would a Sway bar help (I have a pair but only one set of bulkhead mounts so I can only put one on, is it worthwhile, if so which one and where?)

Any other ideas to plant the rear end a tad? Got soft springs at rear 2nd hole from centre, Medium-Hard springs up front 2nd hole out, 2mm shims on roll centre on bulkhead, no shims on outside hubs, -1 camber front, -1.5 camber rear, 2 degrees toe out front 2 degrees toe in rear with narrow suspension blocks.
Does the rear start out ok or is it loose from the start? If loose from the start put the medium sway bar on the front. if it is good at the start and gets worse throughout the race you may be overheating the tires and causing them to get slippery. If that's the case stiffen the rear springs a little and see if it helps.

2 degrees toe out up front is too much. I run 0 to 0.5 degrees out on each tire. Reduce your front toe and it will help the rear end and reduce lap times. You could also try 1 degree rear toe.

Have you weight balanced the car? Front to rear and left to right. This will help a ton with consistent handling.
__________________
3Racing Sakura XI 17.5 TC
Formula Rabbit (FGX conversion) 21.5
STRC LCG 2WD Slash 17.5
Serpent S120 13.5
6376vette is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-04-2012, 08:04 AM   #1173
Tech Champion
 
nexxus's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Perth, Australia
Posts: 7,651
Trader Rating: 290 (100%+)
Default

Yeah I have balanced it with the Hudy things and it's spot on left to right, according to my 2 sets of scales, I am within 15 grams front to rear as well

Car gets loose from the get go if anything it settles down a tad once the tyres have some heat in them
nexxus is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-04-2012, 09:26 AM   #1174
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Northeast GA
Posts: 1,685
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by nexxus View Post
Yeah I have balanced it with the Hudy things and it's spot on left to right, according to my 2 sets of scales, I am within 15 grams front to rear as well

Car gets loose from the get go if anything it settles down a tad once the tyres have some heat in them
Yeah start with the medium sway bar up front. This will stiffen the front of the car and give you less steering but more rear end bite. Don't be afraid to change to the stiffest bar. Even the stiffest sway bar is completely useable on this car. I think you will see a huge difference with the sway bar and reducing your front toe out.

What is your rear diff fluid? I'm currently running 80wt shock oil and love it. A lighter oil will allow the diff to free up and roll through the turns better.
__________________
3Racing Sakura XI 17.5 TC
Formula Rabbit (FGX conversion) 21.5
STRC LCG 2WD Slash 17.5
Serpent S120 13.5
6376vette is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-04-2012, 04:36 PM   #1175
Tech Champion
 
nexxus's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Perth, Australia
Posts: 7,651
Trader Rating: 290 (100%+)
Default

Ok I have changed the front toe to 1 degree had to abandon using a front sway bar though as the ball stud on the front arm where it connects (the molded in one) snapped as I was trying to hook it up.... damnit!

Need to get some spare arms
nexxus is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-04-2012, 07:35 PM   #1176
Tech Adept
 
redbarton's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 230
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Dang! I broke a rear bulkhead cover while making a couple practice laps before our club race today. It was a good thing I brought an extra car for a class I haven't been racing lately. I ordered the aluminum front and rear covers, plus the spacers from HotShotRC.
redbarton is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-04-2012, 11:31 PM   #1177
Tech Master
 
pejota's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Vero Beach, FL
Posts: 1,018
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default

Nexxus

Sorry i'm late to this conversation, but here's my settings for VTA on medium grip asphalt.

Box stock with the following exceptions:

Front Springs - 35wt oil, Associated Silver spring (14.5lb)
Rear Springs- 35 wt oil, Associated Gold spring (19.5lb)- 2mm preload spacer

Front Track- I added a 1mm spacer between the hex adapter and the wheel to widen the front track

Rear Inner Camber link- 2mm Spacer

Rear Toe Block- 3*

Car runs like a dream.


Quote:
Originally Posted by nexxus View Post
Wow I run a lot more droop! For a 5.5mm ride height, I have droop set as 0 front and -4 rear

Mind you am struggling with on power over steer in VTA, would a Sway bar help (I have a pair but only one set of bulkhead mounts so I can only put one on, is it worthwhile, if so which one and where?)

Any other ideas to plant the rear end a tad? Got soft springs at rear 2nd hole from centre, Medium-Hard springs up front 2nd hole out, 2mm shims on roll centre on bulkhead, no shims on outside hubs, -1 camber front, -1.5 camber rear, 2 degrees toe out front 2 degrees toe in rear with narrow suspension blocks.
pejota is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-05-2012, 12:18 AM   #1178
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Northeast GA
Posts: 1,685
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by pejota View Post
Nexxus

Sorry i'm late to this conversation, but here's my settings for VTA on medium grip asphalt.

Box stock with the following exceptions:

Front Springs - 35wt oil, Associated Silver spring (14.5lb)
Rear Springs- 35 wt oil, Associated Gold spring (19.5lb)- 2mm preload spacer

Front Track- I added a 1mm spacer between the hex adapter and the wheel to widen the front track

Rear Inner Camber link- 2mm Spacer

Rear Toe Block- 3*

Car runs like a dream.
You may want to try less rear toe for vta. I'm running 1 or 0 depending on the night. I bet your losing a tenth by running 3. That's a lot of rear toe and a lot of tire scrub.


By adding the spacer on the wheel you are reducing the hex contact area on the wheel increasing the chance of damage. I would recommend getting wider hexes instead of spacers .3racing has them from 4mm to 7mm. I do agree that widening the front track can help the car.
__________________
3Racing Sakura XI 17.5 TC
Formula Rabbit (FGX conversion) 21.5
STRC LCG 2WD Slash 17.5
Serpent S120 13.5
6376vette is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-05-2012, 02:26 AM   #1179
GDF
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 31
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

The Sakura Zero S is my first TC and its been a great experience so far.

I need some advice on how to get more steering.

I built it following the manual exactly. Besides the 19t pulley my car is stock. At the track (medium grip asphalt) I felt the car was slower down the straights and the rear would sometimes spin out coming out of a turn.

A pro offered to setup my car and he immediately noticed that the stock setup had massive toe-out in the front. He set it to 1*. Height was set to 5mm front and back. As soon as I got back on the track I noticed I could go faster down the straights and the rear was more planted. But now I do not have enough on power steering and I have to slow down to make the turn.

It looks like that massive toe out in the front was giving me plenty of steering at the expense of speed. I was recommended to switch the front to a lighter oil possibly 35wt and/or softer spring. Does anyone what wt is the stock oil? It looks like the stock spring is 5.5t, and the softest Sakura spring would be 6.5t. Not sure if that would make enough of a difference.
GDF is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-05-2012, 06:57 AM   #1180
Tech Master
 
pejota's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Vero Beach, FL
Posts: 1,018
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default

I'll definitely consider the rear toe changes. Especially since I believe that i have this car the way i want it. I'll report back when i can.

As for the front spacers, it's what i had in my box at the track that day. I'm pretty sure they are actually the #8 washers that originally came with the RC10 to raise the height of the body mounts. I'll look into different spacers, but the outside diameter of the spacer is 11mm and fits into the hex on the wheel nicely.


Quote:
Originally Posted by 6376vette View Post
You may want to try less rear toe for vta. I'm running 1 or 0 depending on the night. I bet your losing a tenth by running 3. That's a lot of rear toe and a lot of tire scrub.


By adding the spacer on the wheel you are reducing the hex contact area on the wheel increasing the chance of damage. I would recommend getting wider hexes instead of spacers .3racing has them from 4mm to 7mm. I do agree that widening the front track can help the car.
pejota is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-05-2012, 08:27 AM   #1181
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Northeast GA
Posts: 1,685
Exclamation

Quote:
Originally Posted by pejota View Post
I'll definitely consider the rear toe changes. Especially since I believe that i have this car the way i want it. I'll report back when i can.

As for the front spacers, it's what i had in my box at the track that day. I'm pretty sure they are actually the #8 washers that originally came with the RC10 to raise the height of the body mounts. I'll look into different spacers, but the outside diameter of the spacer is 11mm and fits into the hex on the wheel nicely.
Don't get me wrong I think its awesome you are experimenting with track width. Most people overlook this tuning area. I was just concerned that by reducing hex contact you would increase the likelihood that a wheel could break. Broken parts aren't fun.
__________________
3Racing Sakura XI 17.5 TC
Formula Rabbit (FGX conversion) 21.5
STRC LCG 2WD Slash 17.5
Serpent S120 13.5
6376vette is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-05-2012, 08:37 AM   #1182
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Northeast GA
Posts: 1,685
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by GDF View Post
The Sakura Zero S is my first TC and its been a great experience so far.

I need some advice on how to get more steering.

I built it following the manual exactly. Besides the 19t pulley my car is stock. At the track (medium grip asphalt) I felt the car was slower down the straights and the rear would sometimes spin out coming out of a turn.

A pro offered to setup my car and he immediately noticed that the stock setup had massive toe-out in the front. He set it to 1*. Height was set to 5mm front and back. As soon as I got back on the track I noticed I could go faster down the straights and the rear was more planted. But now I do not have enough on power steering and I have to slow down to make the turn.

It looks like that massive toe out in the front was giving me plenty of steering at the expense of speed. I was recommended to switch the front to a lighter oil possibly 35wt and/or softer spring. Does anyone what wt is the stock oil? It looks like the stock spring is 5.5t, and the softest Sakura spring would be 6.5t. Not sure if that would make enough of a difference.
Since it sounds like your car is on the edge of loose and tight at the same time I would soften both springs. The kit is 5.5. I would try 6.5 front and 6.0 rear. I think the kit weight. oil is very light. Around 20. This can also cause problems. I agree with changing to 35 at oil. We run a tight high traction carpet track and 40 front 30 rear with the 6.5 rear springs and 6.0 front hooks up pretty good.

Also try 2 degrees of camber on all tires. This may help as well.


Since you are having an on power issue it means that to much weight is shifting toward the rear of the car. Stiffening the rear will have more effect then softening the front. You may need to soften all four corners to prevent the rear from being too stiff as I have recommended above to get the balance correct.
__________________
3Racing Sakura XI 17.5 TC
Formula Rabbit (FGX conversion) 21.5
STRC LCG 2WD Slash 17.5
Serpent S120 13.5
6376vette is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-05-2012, 11:41 AM   #1183
Tech Initiate
 
davenz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 42
Default

Hi GDF, with my sakura zero, I run 6.5 rear and 5.75 front springs with 35 oil in front and rear dampers. camber = 2* all round.
ride height is 5mm front and rear. 5mm hexes front and 4mm rear.
toe = 1* out on the front, and for 13.5 i have 3*in on rear - and 0 toe for stock.
hope this helps some
Dave


--------------------------------------
Sakura zero - tekin rspro/13.5 redline
Sakura s - mtronics ip6/540j
davenz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-05-2012, 11:49 AM   #1184
Tech Master
 
pejota's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Vero Beach, FL
Posts: 1,018
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default

When i put the car together i noticed a huge disparity between the front and rear track with the VTA tires.

I didn't like that at all. And that was actually the first change i made to the car. Made an immediate difference on turn-in.


Quote:
Originally Posted by 6376vette View Post
Don't get me wrong I think its awesome you are experimenting with track width. Most people overlook this tuning area. I was just concerned that by reducing hex contact you would increase the likelihood that a wheel could break. Broken parts aren't fun.
pejota is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-06-2012, 04:58 AM   #1185
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: SE Melbourne
Posts: 304
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

Hi!

Any advice for what sort of FDR would be reasonable for running silvercan or 21.5?

Thanks!
__________________
SERCCC - The world's best temporary RC track ;)

SERCCC, www.serccc.com
Space for rent!
luda is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Sakura Zero - New Touring Car! InZane Electric On-Road 1355 02-14-2014 05:14 PM
New to the RC scene...need some help! Jmoney12 Rookie Zone 13 06-15-2010 10:21 AM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 08:39 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0