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Old 01-29-2012, 08:16 AM   #1141
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bappe View Post
speaking of springs, i have made a list of some brands spring rates (google is your friend ) all lists is from various threads here on rctech

Yokomo
Spring Rating [lb/in]
Orange 18.87
Green 16.06
Pink 14.93
Yellow 14.71
White 12.94
Blue 12.12

Rayspeed
Spring Rating [lb/in]
Gray 19.90
Red 18.26
White 17.17
Yellow 14.87
Blue 14.29
Green 13.20

Associated
Spring Rating [lb/in]
White 40.00
Yellow 31.91
Purple 30.30
Copper 23.26
Red 23.08
Gold 18.35
Blue 16.53
Silver 13.89
Green 11.43

Tamiya
Spring Rating [lb/in]
Purple 22.72
Gray 20.91
White Short 17.24
Blue Short 15.27
White 14.82
Blue 14.08
Yellow 13.33
Red Short 13.24
Yellow Short 12.90
Red 11.86

3Racing
Spring Rating [lb/in]
4.25T 35.8
4.5T 31.7
4.75T 29.2
5.0T 26.2
5.25T 24.9
5.50T 22.9
5.75T 21.2

What is the rate for the springs that come with the stock non-threaded shocks?

Are they the same springs that come with the threaded shocks?
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Old 01-29-2012, 09:13 AM   #1142
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What is the rate for the springs that come with the stock non-threaded shocks?

Are they the same springs that come with the threaded shocks?
5.5 and yes they are the same springs on the threaded shocks.
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Old 01-31-2012, 07:26 AM   #1143
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Since this thread has fallen to page 3, and it seems to be only filled with the same questions regarding which hopups to get, I thought I would break the mold and attach my most current setup from this past weekend.

Date: 1/29/2012
Track: ThunderRC, Nashville TN
Surface: Treated CRC Ozite Carpet (very very high traction especially in the grooze)
Car: Sakura Zero S (w/ all Zero upgrades, TC6 ball ends and rod ends, 44mm CVD's in rear, Xray hard front bumper, narrow CF chassis, short rear arms) USVTA legal
ESC: Speed Passion Cirtix
Motor: Novak Ballistic 25.5
Servo: KO Propo PDS-2123 Low Profile
Gearing: 93 Spur, 49 Pinion, 2.0 IDR (19T center, 38T diff), 3.8 FDR
Weight: 1569g, mostly balanced with a tad leaning to the battery side (for home track right hand sweeper) still within the bubble gauge balance lines

Front
Camber: 1.5*
Caster: 4*
Toe: 0*
Front Block: FF0
Rear Block: FR0
Sway: None
Diff: Spool
Ride Height: 5mm
Droop: 1mm (over ride height)
Shock Oil: 35wt
Spring: 5.0 3Racing
Shock Hole: 2nd hole from outer
Rod Mount: longest links
Wheel Base: 1.5mm spacer in front of arm, 1mm spacer behind arm
Tires: VTA Spec HPI 26mm Treaded

Rear
Camber: 2*
Caster: 0*
Toe: 2*
Front Block: NRF0 .25 shims
Rear Block: NRR2 .25 and .5 shims (.75 total)
Sway: None
Diff: Gear Diff 2000wt
Ride Height: 5mm
Droop: 2mm (over ride height)
Shock Oil: 27.5wt
Spring: 6.50 3Racing
Shock Hole: inner most
Rod Mount: longest links
Wheel Base: 1mm spacer in front of arm, 2mm spacer behind arm
Tires: VTA Spec 31mm Treaded

Car took some tweaking to get to this point on Sunday. Initially with the super high grip track, was traction rolling. Stiffened the front springs from 5.5 to 5.0, and changed the front droop from 3mm over ride height to 1mm. Went down to a 1/4" band of traction compound on the inside fronts, full rears (SXT 3.0). I also lowered the ride height to 5mm (from 5.5) and lowered the body 1 hole (our home track is a bit bumpier). Car has a lot of turn in, and rolls the corners nicely. The back end is slightly loose on throttle which eliminates on power push and gives me some throttle steer and quicker rotation out of the corners. I could stiffen the entire car more for that track as it was so smooth, but one day was not enough time for me (and my lack of tuning knowledge) to make the necessary changes and fine tune them into a driveable car. The changes I made took place over 3 practice sessions, 3 qualifiers (with 2 more short practices in between) and finished with a very solid car in the main. Was running 3rd in the B-Main until a wheel came off. Got back on the track 2 laps down, and managed to pass the 3rd, 4th, and 5th place cars, and raced the 3rd place car to the finish (even though down 2 laps).

Same setup last night (with full traction compound on the front) felt good on the home track (same CRC Ozite, no traction additive to the carpet, still medium/high grip) with a tighter, more technical layout.

I need ECS axles, as the car chatters like mad in the twisties.
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Old 02-01-2012, 01:10 AM   #1144
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Hi guys, can this car handle 55mph without breaking to easily? I want to replace my Tamiya TB03 and this car has really cheap parts and I have heard good things of it.

I drive on a very smooth clean carpark and rarely does my car come back dirty after so I don't think dirt in the belts should be too much of an issue. Are the belts on these strong enough for 8.5t 3s, are there any hop up ones and how long does a pair of belts (and whatever else wears on a belt drive, this is my first one) last? What I really want to know is how reliable the drivetrain is.

Thanks, all help greatly appreciated
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Old 02-01-2012, 09:03 AM   #1145
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the car has a solid drivetrain, the belts are bendo belts, very good quality (at least there are bendo belts on the xi..)

the car will handle 55mph, but if you crash in 55mph, it will break
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Old 02-02-2012, 06:12 AM   #1146
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Has anyone noticed the front body posts are quite brittle and tend to snap at the base? I'm used to the Tamiya ones which had a bit of flex in them. Any ideas?
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Old 02-02-2012, 06:33 AM   #1147
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Has anyone noticed the front body posts are quite brittle and tend to snap at the base? I'm used to the Tamiya ones which had a bit of flex in them. Any ideas?
I have broken 1 so far but it was a good hit. I think it has more to do with the soft bumper not supporting the posts. I have used associated posts but I broke one of these too. I would recommend getting harder foam for the bumper to see if that solves your problem.
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Old 02-02-2012, 07:19 AM   #1148
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Has anyone noticed the front body posts are quite brittle and tend to snap at the base? I'm used to the Tamiya ones which had a bit of flex in them. Any ideas?
As Scott said, better bumper. I have the Xray hard bumper for the T2/T3 and I have yet to break anything on the front end suspension. I just replaced both C-Hubs last night as they had actually worn out (too much slop around the hunge pins) but had never broken.
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Old 02-02-2012, 10:02 AM   #1149
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Just bought the Sakura Zero S and waiting for it to arrive.
I didn't get any updates YET...i will try out the stock 20T pulleys to check the belt tension and then move accordingly.
I bought a Sidewinder SV2 ESC and will be using an EZrun 9T or 10T motor(one with the rips) with a Zippy 6000mah 2S lipo battery.

For it i got the 25T 48pitch pinion gear which i hope will be OK and will not need the vertical mount to adjust!!!

Anything i should be aware of during building it?
(i'm too tired to check/search around!!!)
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Old 02-02-2012, 10:12 AM   #1150
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Originally Posted by vti-chris View Post
Just bought the Sakura Zero S and waiting for it to arrive.
I didn't get any updates YET...i will try out the stock 20T pulleys to check the belt tension and then move accordingly.
I bought a Sidewinder SV2 ESC and will be using an EZrun 9T or 10T motor(one with the rips) with a Zippy 6000mah 2S lipo battery.

For it i got the 25T 48pitch pinion gear which i hope will be OK and will not need the vertical mount to adjust!!!

Anything i should be aware of during building it?
(i'm too tired to check/search around!!!)
Assembly is straight forward. Change your diff fluids though. Heavy weight in the front lighter in the rear.

Spend some time with the suspension hinge pins and spacers. you need to work them a little with a sander so the arms will move freely.
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Old 02-02-2012, 10:12 AM   #1151
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vti-chris View Post
Just bought the Sakura Zero S and waiting for it to arrive.
I didn't get any updates YET...i will try out the stock 20T pulleys to check the belt tension and then move accordingly.
I bought a Sidewinder SV2 ESC and will be using an EZrun 9T or 10T motor(one with the rips) with a Zippy 6000mah 2S lipo battery.

For it i got the 25T 48pitch pinion gear which i hope will be OK and will not need the vertical mount to adjust!!!

Anything i should be aware of during building it?
(i'm too tired to check/search around!!!)
Buy yourself a 3mm tap and pre-thread the plastic components during assembly. This will save your wrist.
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Old 02-02-2012, 10:58 AM   #1152
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I have an electric screwdriver for that!!!!!!!
Bearings are OK???
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Old 02-02-2012, 11:20 AM   #1153
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I have an electric screwdriver for that!!!!!!!
Bearings are OK???
Bearings aren't the best but they're not bad either. Get the aluminium hexes soon. the plastic ones wear out quickly and put pressure on the bearing causing it to overheat and fail.
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Old 02-02-2012, 11:52 AM   #1154
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You will need to pre thread the all the holes or add a light oil to each screw. The plastic parts have no intrnal threads and trust me - your hands and finger will get sore if you plan to build for a few hours. A drill at low speed will help, but stop as soon as you feel it getting tight or you'll strip out your parts!

You will find the motor screws a challange to get to depending on the pinion gear/spur gear combo.

I had a problem with mine where the spur gear rubs the rear pulley. I had to shim the two further apart....some guys build it the way the instructions say to and have no problems..others say they touch and even sand the pulley down just slightly. After the belts stretch you can move it further apart.

The diffs will seem very tight but will loosen up after a bit as well.

Buy yourself a T2 / T3 bumper...or a TC5 bumper. I upgraded mine becuase the stock bumper is soft and has some memory to it...it will get stuck down and cause steering and ride height problems.

Be carefull to set the droop and ride height properly too. Take your time setting hte car up. It will pay off.

Good bang for the buck car...I have two now! You don't really need all the hop ups unless you take your racing VERY serious.
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Old 02-02-2012, 12:07 PM   #1155
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I do race but don't spend lots of $$$ into it.
I try mostly to fix things myself and keep it simple.
Sometimes lots of hop-ups lead you to the opposite direction.
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