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Old 01-26-2012, 07:05 AM   #1111
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Originally Posted by pejota View Post
Since we're on the subject of steering...

I put my car together per the kit instructions. I paid extra attention to getting the lengths of all the tie-rods as close to the instructions as possible.

Now is it just me, or does the car have a rather high amount of front toe-out?

Has anyone deviated from the kit settings regarding toe-out and how did it affect the car?

I'm really asking this out of curiosity because I've made minute other changes to the car and absolutely love it out of the box.
I think most everyone will deviate from the instructions when it comes to toe. As Scott said, .5* out on each wheel is a standard starting point. If you need more steering you can increase it, but the more toe out, the slower your car will be in a straight line. I am running straight 0 right now.
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Old 01-26-2012, 07:08 AM   #1112
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I've decided to go just straight servo horn (no saver), I use the DS1210 in my Nexx10 and Savage XS and they're tough as, titanium geared, waterproof etc and relatively cheap ($35ish) so given a good servo saver is $6 or $7, I'll go straight up, if my XS hasn't killed a servo with the endless tumbles etc it takes, I doubt my VTA car will.
While the servo is a concern to some extent, the actual steering rack, expecially with the stock plastic one is the bigger concern. One of the racers last night broke his rack twice because he had a servo horn instead of a saver on it. Usually you will blow the sides out of the piece that bolts to the front with the two ball ends in it. If you have the aluminum rack, you will either bend it, or it will find the next weak link in the system, which could be ball cups, or even knuckles.
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Old 01-26-2012, 07:15 AM   #1113
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Finally i decided to buy a new Sakura Zero S after searching around for a used car for drift and minimal racing.

I will be mostly drifting...and will be using hobbyking 35A ESC with a 10.5T motor.
What pinion gear do i need to get?(to be used for racing as well...don't have time to mess too much with the car)
I saw that i need the 19t center pulley to loosen up the rear belt...is it really needed??
What wheel off-sets for 190mm body for a biffed up look?
This is the body i will be getting...

Do i need any extra diffs or i can lock one up and use it up front or in the rear for each situation?
I know little about drifting, but will answer what I can.

A 35A ESC seems light for a 10.5 motor. Also, as you said you intended on racing it, I am not sure what class you would run in with a 10.5 and a USGT/Drift body. I am guessing mod touring? You would get eaten alive with that electronics combo though. It is hard to know gearing as it will vary based on a lot of things, including track size, class, wheels, etc. Start with a smaller pinion, check temps, and make it larger as needed.

The 19t pulley is a must have to me, though others disagree. It is both belts that run too tight, and it makes changing spurs/pinions a bugger, as the spur gear/layshaft assembly gets so twisted trying to put it in and take it out. With the stock 20 tooth, I remove the rear diff to do any mesh adjustment, as it is just too wonky otherwise.

It is a 190mm car, so 0 offset wheels should fill the wheel wells. It will also depend on the width of the wheels (24mm, 26mm, 31mm etc) and each body is a little different.

Hopefully that helps some, and maybe those running 48p gears can help you more with pinion decisions.
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Old 01-26-2012, 07:17 AM   #1114
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Originally Posted by nexxus View Post
I've decided to go just straight servo horn (no saver), I use the DS1210 in my Nexx10 and Savage XS and they're tough as, titanium geared, waterproof etc and relatively cheap ($35ish) so given a good servo saver is $6 or $7, I'll go straight up, if my XS hasn't killed a servo with the endless tumbles etc it takes, I doubt my VTA car will.
The savage is built for abuse. I ran straight horns on my losi 8 and had no.problems however a on road touring car is a different beast. Its built for speed and performance more than impact bashing. Save yourself a headache and get a good servo saver.
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Old 01-26-2012, 08:01 AM   #1115
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The savage is built for abuse. I ran straight horns on my losi 8 and had no.problems however a on road touring car is a different beast. Its built for speed and performance more than impact bashing. Save yourself a headache and get a good servo saver.
+1.

It's not the servo you'll break. It's the steering assembly or rod ends that you'll break. Been there, done that.
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Old 01-26-2012, 10:56 AM   #1116
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Thanks for the help!

We are just a dosen of racers playing around...drifting and some racing.

There are no rules here so everyone runs whatever he likes.

Do i have to change the front center pulley as well...if i do the rear?
Note that i know nothing about these cars as i race 1/8th nitro buggies.

Will i be better of with the 60A ESC?
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Old 01-26-2012, 11:10 AM   #1117
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Originally Posted by vti-chris View Post
Thanks for the help!

We are just a dosen of racers playing around...drifting and some racing.

There are no rules here so everyone runs whatever he likes.

Do i have to change the front center pulley as well...if i do the rear?
Note that i know nothing about these cars as i race 1/8th nitro buggies.

Will i be better of with the 60A ESC?
Sounds fun!

There are 3 pulleys on the car. There is the center layshaft pulley (2 actually, but they are the same and fit on each side of the spur gear) and then one on each diff. The stock diffs are 38 tooth, and you want to keep them the same as each other (though you could change them both to 37, 39, or 40). The center one stock is 20. With the 20 in the center, and 38's on each end, the belt is tight. You can get 37 tooth pulleys for the diffs which works, or a 19 tooth for the center, which most prefer as it is a one time change, and the stock spur mount is a bit wobbly. If you change the pulleys on the diffs (you have to order them separate), you would also need to do the same on any other diffs you get, and things like the spool and one way are only available in 38 (unless you can find a Tamiya equivalent in a different tooth count).

I am not very familiar with those ESC's, but my vague understanding is that the 35amp is more suited towards 18th scale, 60amp for stock and superstock 10th scale, and 120+ for mod touring. Hopefully someone else can chime in to confirm or correct.
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Old 01-26-2012, 11:37 AM   #1118
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OK...got the cleared now!!
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Old 01-26-2012, 12:18 PM   #1119
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OK...got the cleared now!!
Be aware, that if you buy the 19T center layshaft pulley gears you also need to buy the alloy spur gear adaptor.

The good news is that with the 38T pulley on each diff your drive train ratio is an even 2.0:1

You could use different pulleys on the front and/or rear diff and Losi offered this as a tuning option years ago with their XXX-S sedan. This gives an over or under drive setup. I used to run the XXX-S sedan but never reied the uneven diff pulley setup.
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Old 01-26-2012, 12:19 PM   #1120
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Why do i need the adaptor?
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Old 01-26-2012, 12:31 PM   #1121
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Why do i need the adaptor?
The stock 20T center pulleys are each a single moulded part that attach to either side of the spur gear. The 19T optional pulley gears are just the gears pulley themselves and slip onto the alloy adapter. Can't use these without the adapter.
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Old 01-26-2012, 12:37 PM   #1122
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Why do i need the adaptor?
Because the "stock" plastic gear holder has 20T pullies molded on that can't be removed. If you want to use the optional pullies you have to use the optional gear holder in order to install the optional pullies.
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Old 01-26-2012, 12:40 PM   #1123
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Here is the stock setup as well as the optional with the spur adapter.

Last edited by SteveM; 12-24-2015 at 08:58 AM.
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Old 01-26-2012, 12:45 PM   #1124
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Originally Posted by orcadigital View Post
I think most everyone will deviate from the instructions when it comes to toe. As Scott said, .5* out on each wheel is a standard starting point. If you need more steering you can increase it, but the more toe out, the slower your car will be in a straight line. I am running straight 0 right now.
Thanks for that response. I'll have to measure and see where I am. I was hoping someone else would chime in and say they've measure the box stock toe and found it to be X degrees and that they changed it to X degrees and really liked/hated the change.

I'm very happy with the car as it sits and don't want to chase pointless changes that make the car worse.
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Old 01-26-2012, 01:04 PM   #1125
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Thanks for that response. I'll have to measure and see where I am. I was hoping someone else would chime in and say they've measure the box stock toe and found it to be X degrees and that they changed it to X degrees and really liked/hated the change.

I'm very happy with the car as it sits and don't want to chase pointless changes that make the car worse.
Yeah unfortunately it won't always be the same as the measurements can vary (center to center, end to end, exposed thread, etc), not to mention small variations in the rod ends, and even drastic things like which hole you are in on the knuckle.

If you are happy with what it is, get it on a setup board and measure the total toe (in or out, hopefully out), and then using the tool or other methods center the rack, adjust the servo and servo linkage so that it is also 0, then set your toe to the same as it was before. This will keep everything centered, and should maintain the setup that you are currently liking.
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