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Old 01-23-2012, 10:18 PM   #1081
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Originally Posted by Madulla View Post
i tested the whole set a while back ...

4.25T - 35.8 lb/in
4.5T - 31.7 lb/in
4.75T - 29.2 lb/in
5.0T - 26.2 lb/in
5.25T - 24.9 lb/in
5.50T - 22.9 lb/in
5.75T - 21.2 lb/in
6.0T - 20.0 lb/in
6.5T - 17.9 lb/in

unless they made some changes, it's a fairly usesless set on rubber. btw - i have two sets for sale should anyone disagree with me.
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A post from Seaball. The softest 3racing spring is 17.9. A blue AE spring is 17. Most people use a green 12 for rear and silver 14.5 for front. Blue is the next spring and is too hard to use. To tune the car you need to use a different company spring Tamyia,HPI,Xray,Yokomo,AE ect. 4mm shock towers help to get the ride height and droop settings.
As I said in my post, people would disagree with me. My car sure does not feel useless with rubber tires and the Sakura springs... Scott runs a lot stiffer setup then I do, but I am doing just fine with the 2 softest springs on the car right now. I run 5 and 5.5mm ride heights and currently running 3mm front downstop, 5mm rear (using droop blocks instead of ride height droop variance). I do have the -1 lower spring mounts, but not having any issues getting the settings I need with the shocks and springs and normal towers.
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Old 01-24-2012, 04:49 AM   #1082
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I like your idea of the servo mounts with ball studs. I am sure I have some Tamiya plastic servo mounts from my old M-03 that should work equally well.
The M-03 plastic servo mount with a 10mm bolt works fine as a battery brace up front. In the rear the bullet connector from my lipo pack just touches the upper deck and keeps the rear of the battery away from the belt.

Last edited by SteveM; 12-24-2015 at 08:58 AM.
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Old 01-24-2012, 05:14 AM   #1083
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Originally Posted by 6376vette View Post
If you are having issues with your car then something else besides the springs are the problem. The spring kit is probably one of the best investments for this car. I have tuned for high traction carpet, low traction carpet, asphalt, seal coated tennis court, and concrete and never had to look elsewhere for springs.

Chassis set up has everything to do with spring choice. I have run the softest to the hardest spring and everywhere in between depending on the surface. Even one step up or down makes a big difference. If the spring kit came with anything softer it would be unusable because it wouldn't support the chassis.
I'm using tamiya yellow mini springs all around on my XI. Standard shocks (threaded), standard retainers, standard towers.

Those springs are measured at 14lbs. I also have 6.5 3Racing springs, which are much harder. Infact, they are slightly harder then trf mini blue, which are 17lbs. The 14lbs support the car fine. I'm confident I could run 12lbs if I wanted to. I'm running 6.5mm ride height with those 14lbs trf mini springs by the way.
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Old 01-24-2012, 07:46 AM   #1084
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I'm using tamiya yellow mini springs all around on my XI. Standard shocks (threaded), standard retainers, standard towers.

Those springs are measured at 14lbs. I also have 6.5 3Racing springs, which are much harder. Infact, they are slightly harder then trf mini blue, which are 17lbs. The 14lbs support the car fine. I'm confident I could run 12lbs if I wanted to. I'm running 6.5mm ride height with those 14lbs trf mini springs by the way.
What benefit have you seen from running a very soft spring? In my experience I have never even thought of going softer than 6.5.

Maybe one thing we should be considering in car weight. I'm running 1550g in race trim for the vta class. If you guys are running a much lighter tc weight then I can better understand the lighter springs.
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Old 01-24-2012, 08:06 AM   #1085
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Originally Posted by SteveM View Post
The M-03 plastic servo mount with a 10mm bolt works fine as a battery brace up front. In the rear the bullet connector from my lipo pack just touches the upper deck and keeps the rear of the battery away from the belt.
The 3Racing center weights also have horizontal threaded holes where you can do a similar thing. I used that for one, and the wires to the battery, space the other side (similar to how you did it, except it is where my wires run under the top deck). The battery pinches the wire against the aluminum center post, which should not give me any wear issues. I doubt I need the rear bolt through the center weight, but there are some pretty big impacts in VTA.

All good ideas to keep the battery off the belt though!
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3Racing Sakura Zero S-dsc_1061.jpg  
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Old 01-24-2012, 08:14 AM   #1086
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Originally Posted by wollow86 View Post
I'm using tamiya yellow mini springs all around on my XI. Standard shocks (threaded), standard retainers, standard towers.

Those springs are measured at 14lbs. I also have 6.5 3Racing springs, which are much harder. Infact, they are slightly harder then trf mini blue, which are 17lbs. The 14lbs support the car fine. I'm confident I could run 12lbs if I wanted to. I'm running 6.5mm ride height with those 14lbs trf mini springs by the way.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 6376vette View Post
What benefit have you seen from running a very soft spring? In my experience I have never even thought of going softer than 6.5.

Maybe one thing we should be considering in car weight. I'm running 1550g in race trim for the vta class. If you guys are running a much lighter tc weight then I can better understand the lighter springs.
I think back to the main point, we all agree that springs are a tuning aid. Whether you want stiffer or softer, there are many options, the Sakura set being one, as well as the HPI, Tamiya, Associated, etc being others. As such, I think the consensus is that it is recommended to have a variety of springs for tuning the car.

Please continue discussing car setups, but in the terms of setup. I have yet to see an Xray or TC6 setup sheet that claims all other setup sheets are wrong. Scott and I run the same track in the same conditions, in the same class no less. His car setup is about as different from mine as possible. Pros and cons, go go!
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Old 01-24-2012, 10:21 AM   #1087
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speaking of springs, i have made a list of some brands spring rates (google is your friend ) all lists is from various threads here on rctech

Yokomo
Spring Rating [lb/in]
Orange 18.87
Green 16.06
Pink 14.93
Yellow 14.71
White 12.94
Blue 12.12

Rayspeed
Spring Rating [lb/in]
Gray 19.90
Red 18.26
White 17.17
Yellow 14.87
Blue 14.29
Green 13.20

Associated
Spring Rating [lb/in]
White 40.00
Yellow 31.91
Purple 30.30
Copper 23.26
Red 23.08
Gold 18.35
Blue 16.53
Silver 13.89
Green 11.43

Tamiya
Spring Rating [lb/in]
Purple 22.72
Gray 20.91
White Short 17.24
Blue Short 15.27
White 14.82
Blue 14.08
Yellow 13.33
Red Short 13.24
Yellow Short 12.90
Red 11.86

3Racing
Spring Rating [lb/in]
4.25T 35.8
4.5T 31.7
4.75T 29.2
5.0T 26.2
5.25T 24.9
5.50T 22.9
5.75T 21.2
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Old 01-24-2012, 12:08 PM   #1088
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Couple things to keep in mind:

* The Sakura Zero shocks are shorter than "normal" touring car shocks, so when using another brand of springs you need to that that into account if you don't use the other shocks as well.
* If you use other brands of shocks you either have to build them short (put a 4mm spacer inside the shock body to limit travel) or get the +4mm shock towers.
* Some brands of springs are progressive (they get stiffer the further they are compressed). When you set your preload or use them in any way shortened you will typically be "losing" the softest part of the spring.
* Spring rates are normally posted as straight compression rates. When you lay the shock down (change the angle the shock is mounted at) you change the effective spring rate. A vertical shock is "harder" than one at an angle.
* The oil you use impacts your spring and vice versa.

Scott, Grant and I all race at the same place in the same class. All of our cars are setup differently as we all have different driving styles. While our goal is the same (Winning!) we've all taken different routes and monetary outlays to try to get there. That's the part that needs to be focused on here. There isn't a right or a wrong, just ideas and implementations. What works for you may not work for someone else. What is working for me right now probably won't work as well this summer when the track goes from it's current high 60Fs to high 90Fs. It's all about making it work for you.
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Old 01-24-2012, 01:56 PM   #1089
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Hey guys,

Just a question about the steering systems from the XI.

Are they a straight swap for the system in the zero or do you have to make some mods to the chassis?
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Old 01-24-2012, 02:03 PM   #1090
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cant see why you should need the xi steering? is the steering system on the S bad? (never seen it irl)

i drive the xi, nice car, but the steering has developed ALOT of sloop now, its so much that im thinking of replacing it.. (50packs with the car, indoor on carpet)
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Old 01-24-2012, 02:36 PM   #1091
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The steering in the Zero isnt bad... But mine came apart last race and it doesnt have the same feel as it used to... so it needs to be replaced in the not too distant future... was just wondering if the XI steering was better and if it would slot straight into the Zero
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Old 01-24-2012, 02:51 PM   #1092
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The steering in the Zero isnt bad... But mine came apart last race and it doesnt have the same feel as it used to... so it needs to be replaced in the not too distant future... was just wondering if the XI steering was better and if it would slot straight into the Zero
Totally unsubstantiated, but my understanding is the XI steering is mostly bolt in. You will need to tape/glue/drill new holes to mount the servo though. I also understand you lose some amount of steering throw going to the XI steering in the Zero. For what it is worth, one of the big upgrades on the T3 Xray's, and finally implemented in the 2012, is the servo being mounted like it is in the XI, where it used to be like the Zero.

I have the aluminum steering setup for the Zero in my car and have been quite happy with it so far. Interestingly enough, one complaint I have had from a friend driving my car (and an issue he had with 2 other Zero's) is that when he completes a corner, the car tends to overturn and the driver has to correct back. If I think about it, I will bring the wheel back to center a hair sooner then feels right, and it tracks out straight. No idea if these are related to the servo orientation, but I am kind of curious to try now...
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Old 01-24-2012, 03:52 PM   #1093
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Ordering this car as soon as my pan car sales. Wondering if the futaba 9650 servo I was using in my pan will work ok in the touring car. Was thinking of upgrading it to metal gears eventually. They are .11 speed at 6v and 63 oz of torque.

Rob
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Old 01-24-2012, 04:50 PM   #1094
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Ordering this car as soon as my pan car sales. Wondering if the futaba 9650 servo I was using in my pan will work ok in the touring car. Was thinking of upgrading it to metal gears eventually. They are .11 speed at 6v and 63 oz of torque.

Rob
That's a mini sized servo. The mounts in the Sakura S are for standard sized servos. I use a Savox SC-1257TG servo in my S. It is .07/139oz at 6v. Overkill, I know. It was in my FTSC10 before I sold it.
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Old 01-24-2012, 06:36 PM   #1095
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Hey Grant,

How is the steering servo position different on the Zero S and the new XI?

I see that the new XRAY mounts perpendicular to the driving direction of the car, but from the pics of the XI it looks to mount in-line like the S...

I actually ordered the XI steering for my car as I feel like the plastic steering on my car has a bit of vertical play. I was not able to find the metal Zero steering so I ordered the XI one.

Thanks!!

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