3Racing Sakura Zero S
#976
Drat.....foiled again. When I switched the front diff to move the belt to the other side of the chassis the belt is now fouled by the stock battery tray guides in the middle of the chassis. They have to come out which means I have to use tape on the battery. No biggie, just not as convenient is all.
I got rid of all 3 "inside" and the center "outside" battery holder parts. Just left the 2 "outside" corners. Used the "foot" of the original motor mount on the "inside" center hole. Put the flat side of the "foot" towards the battery, concave side towards the belt, screw up through the hole in the bottom. The belt touches the "foot" but it doesn't bind or cause much friction and I haven't noticed any wear on the side of the belt that touches in in the 3 months or so that I've run it that way. Tape does the rest. I double up 2 pieces of battery tape about 14-16" long.
I only take the battery out for a couple of things. To balance charge -- on my battery, the tape covers the balance hole. I've punched a hole in the tape before, but I've always been worried that would weaken the tape too much. Other than that about the only other reason I take the battery out is to change the pinion or mess with the gear mesh. The tape lasts about 6-8 race days for me -- I race about 2x a week, so about a month or so. I do "normal" battery charges with the battery in the car.
#977
Tech Master
Drat.....foiled again. When I switched the front diff to move the belt to the other side of the chassis the belt is now fouled by the stock battery tray guides in the middle of the chassis. They have to come out which means I have to use tape on the battery. No biggie, just not as convenient is all.
#978
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)
Drat.....foiled again. When I switched the front diff to move the belt to the other side of the chassis the belt is now fouled by the stock battery tray guides in the middle of the chassis. They have to come out which means I have to use tape on the battery. No biggie, just not as convenient is all.
another great way. strong work!
#979
Tech Rookie
You can still use the battery strap with the vertical motor mount. Just upgrade your battery holder.
Last edited by ariemus; 01-12-2012 at 07:27 AM.
#980
Anybody selling a Sakura Zero S??????????????
#982
Tech Champion
iTrader: (165)
I went at the stock battery holders with the Dremel last night and have something that might work. The battery can still move inward a bit too much and I still need to resolve that. If your battery holder is better I may just switch.
#984
Tech Rookie
Found the battery mount by accident and didn't pay attention to the brand at the time. Too bad I didn't save the packaging. Got it at a local shop but the shop has recently closed down. I'll try to look it up online and let you guys know.
#986
Tech Regular
#987
Tech Champion
iTrader: (165)
While we wait on that battery retainer that ariemus is using, I made some mods to the stock parts and I can now use the battery strap. The lipo can move slightly left to right in the tray and I'll see how I can fix that next. Here are a few pics.
Last edited by SteveM; 12-24-2015 at 07:58 AM.
#988
Tech Rookie
Yes.
SteveM Your DIY looks good, don't need to upgrade the battery strap at all. To prevent the the battery from sliding, just add the battery stay. See my photo, its the round pink piece thats just under the top deck. Add 2 of these. See the Sakura XI for info how to do it. Although the XI has a battery stay on the motor mount and steering. You can DIY like mine. This piece will make the battery snug against the outer battery retainer and prevent battery from hitting the belt.
SteveM Your DIY looks good, don't need to upgrade the battery strap at all. To prevent the the battery from sliding, just add the battery stay. See my photo, its the round pink piece thats just under the top deck. Add 2 of these. See the Sakura XI for info how to do it. Although the XI has a battery stay on the motor mount and steering. You can DIY like mine. This piece will make the battery snug against the outer battery retainer and prevent battery from hitting the belt.
#989
Tech Champion
iTrader: (165)
SteveM Your DIY looks good, don't need to upgrade the battery strap at all. To prevent the the battery from sliding, just add the battery stay. See my photo, its the round pink piece thats just under the top deck. Add 2 of these. See the Sakura XI for info how to do it. Although the XI has a battery stay on the motor mount and steering. You can DIY like mine. This piece will make the battery snug against the outer battery retainer and prevent battery from hitting the belt.
The TC6 parts I need (ASC31318 & ASC31304) aren't expensive so I'll order those anyway as they make for a cleaner install.
Last edited by SteveM; 01-13-2012 at 06:19 AM.
#990
Tech Master
iTrader: (41)
ok Sakura Masters,
I got a weird one.
Using this car for VTA Racing with 2S and 25.5 Novak Ballistic Motor.
Geared 4.84 with a 92Spur and a 38 Pinion
19T Center Pulleys
Front Diff 30,000wt
Rear Diff 500
Other than that stock everything else
But on our track I'm getting the motor up to it's Temperature limit.
Now my Other VTA car a Associated TC4 FT (shaft drive) Geared taller at 4.6 comes in no problems after 10 min at 130F
No Timing advance on either car and the same track with the same traction.
Anyone got any Idea's?
Also the Track is very Very tight lots of 180 degree corners and about 40x60'
The current gearing is the smallest I can go in pinion as the motor is tight against the motor mount
With the Pinion off the car rolls free
I got a weird one.
Using this car for VTA Racing with 2S and 25.5 Novak Ballistic Motor.
Geared 4.84 with a 92Spur and a 38 Pinion
19T Center Pulleys
Front Diff 30,000wt
Rear Diff 500
Other than that stock everything else
But on our track I'm getting the motor up to it's Temperature limit.
Now my Other VTA car a Associated TC4 FT (shaft drive) Geared taller at 4.6 comes in no problems after 10 min at 130F
No Timing advance on either car and the same track with the same traction.
Anyone got any Idea's?
Also the Track is very Very tight lots of 180 degree corners and about 40x60'
The current gearing is the smallest I can go in pinion as the motor is tight against the motor mount
With the Pinion off the car rolls free