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Old 01-10-2012, 07:32 PM   #976
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Drat.....foiled again. When I switched the front diff to move the belt to the other side of the chassis the belt is now fouled by the stock battery tray guides in the middle of the chassis. They have to come out which means I have to use tape on the battery. No biggie, just not as convenient is all.
It's possible to make it work with the battery strap. Someone I race with did it, but it was a lot of work with a dremel.

I got rid of all 3 "inside" and the center "outside" battery holder parts. Just left the 2 "outside" corners. Used the "foot" of the original motor mount on the "inside" center hole. Put the flat side of the "foot" towards the battery, concave side towards the belt, screw up through the hole in the bottom. The belt touches the "foot" but it doesn't bind or cause much friction and I haven't noticed any wear on the side of the belt that touches in in the 3 months or so that I've run it that way. Tape does the rest. I double up 2 pieces of battery tape about 14-16" long.

I only take the battery out for a couple of things. To balance charge -- on my battery, the tape covers the balance hole. I've punched a hole in the tape before, but I've always been worried that would weaken the tape too much. Other than that about the only other reason I take the battery out is to change the pinion or mess with the gear mesh. The tape lasts about 6-8 race days for me -- I race about 2x a week, so about a month or so. I do "normal" battery charges with the battery in the car.
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Old 01-10-2012, 09:34 PM   #977
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Drat.....foiled again. When I switched the front diff to move the belt to the other side of the chassis the belt is now fouled by the stock battery tray guides in the middle of the chassis. They have to come out which means I have to use tape on the battery. No biggie, just not as convenient is all.
The center battery mount is where I replaced mine with a nyloc nut just to keep the battery from shifting. it works great and the belt clears without any issues. You can still use the battery strap.
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Old 01-10-2012, 09:45 PM   #978
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Originally Posted by SteveM View Post
Drat.....foiled again. When I switched the front diff to move the belt to the other side of the chassis the belt is now fouled by the stock battery tray guides in the middle of the chassis. They have to come out which means I have to use tape on the battery. No biggie, just not as convenient is all.
You can still use it. You just have to Dremel the inside barriers. I took the inside center out, Dremeled the front and back ones. The put the center one on the upperdeck. Sideways, with one screw and a zip tie. Its kinda Old Testament but it works.

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The center battery mount is where I replaced mine with a nyloc nut just to keep the battery from shifting. it works great and the belt clears without any issues. You can still use the battery strap.
another great way. strong work!
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Old 01-12-2012, 01:03 AM   #979
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You can still use the battery strap with the vertical motor mount. Just upgrade your battery holder.
Attached Thumbnails
3Racing Sakura Zero S-dscn0558.jpg   3Racing Sakura Zero S-dscn0568.jpg   3Racing Sakura Zero S-dscn0569.jpg  

Last edited by ariemus; 01-12-2012 at 08:27 AM.
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Old 01-12-2012, 02:05 AM   #980
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Anybody selling a Sakura Zero S??????????????
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Old 01-12-2012, 04:56 AM   #981
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You can still use the battery strap with the vertical motor mount. Just upgrade your battery holder.
What brand or mod is that strap mount?
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Old 01-12-2012, 06:10 AM   #982
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You can still use the battery strap with the vertical motor mount. Just upgrade your battery holder.
That looks interesting. What battery holder are you using? Please post what you're using.

I went at the stock battery holders with the Dremel last night and have something that might work. The battery can still move inward a bit too much and I still need to resolve that. If your battery holder is better I may just switch.
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Old 01-12-2012, 06:37 AM   #983
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Anybody selling a Sakura Zero S??????????????
Have you checked ebay or Integy.com?
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Old 01-12-2012, 08:31 AM   #984
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Found the battery mount by accident and didn't pay attention to the brand at the time. Too bad I didn't save the packaging. Got it at a local shop but the shop has recently closed down. I'll try to look it up online and let you guys know.
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Old 01-12-2012, 09:19 AM   #985
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Originally Posted by ariemus View Post
Found the battery mount by accident and didn't pay attention to the brand at the time. Too bad I didn't save the packaging. Got it at a local shop but the shop has recently closed down. I'll try to look it up online and let you guys know.
Your setup looks like the cat's meow and I'd be interested in knowing what battery strap/tray you are using for sure.
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Old 01-12-2012, 03:40 PM   #986
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What brand or mod is that strap mount?
It looks like a TC6 battery holder to me (strap not included).
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Old 01-12-2012, 05:10 PM   #987
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While we wait on that battery retainer that ariemus is using, I made some mods to the stock parts and I can now use the battery strap. The lipo can move slightly left to right in the tray and I'll see how I can fix that next. Here are a few pics.

Last edited by SteveM; 12-24-2015 at 08:58 AM.
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Old 01-12-2012, 06:41 PM   #988
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It looks like a TC6 battery holder to me (strap not included).
Yes.

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Originally Posted by SteveM View Post
While we wait on that battery retainer that ariemus is using, I made some mods to the stock parts and I can now use the battery strap. The lipo can move slightly left to right in the tray and I'll see how I can fix that next. Here are a few pics.
SteveM Your DIY looks good, don't need to upgrade the battery strap at all. To prevent the the battery from sliding, just add the battery stay. See my photo, its the round pink piece thats just under the top deck. Add 2 of these. See the Sakura XI for info how to do it. Although the XI has a battery stay on the motor mount and steering. You can DIY like mine. This piece will make the battery snug against the outer battery retainer and prevent battery from hitting the belt.
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Old 01-12-2012, 07:45 PM   #989
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Originally Posted by ariemus View Post
SteveM Your DIY looks good, don't need to upgrade the battery strap at all. To prevent the the battery from sliding, just add the battery stay. See my photo, its the round pink piece thats just under the top deck. Add 2 of these. See the Sakura XI for info how to do it. Although the XI has a battery stay on the motor mount and steering. You can DIY like mine. This piece will make the battery snug against the outer battery retainer and prevent battery from hitting the belt.
Looks like your stay is attached to the upper deck. I'll look into something like that too.

The TC6 parts I need (ASC31318 & ASC31304) aren't expensive so I'll order those anyway as they make for a cleaner install.

Last edited by SteveM; 01-13-2012 at 07:19 AM.
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Old 01-13-2012, 07:04 AM   #990
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ok Sakura Masters,

I got a weird one.

Using this car for VTA Racing with 2S and 25.5 Novak Ballistic Motor.

Geared 4.84 with a 92Spur and a 38 Pinion

19T Center Pulleys

Front Diff 30,000wt
Rear Diff 500

Other than that stock everything else

But on our track I'm getting the motor up to it's Temperature limit.

Now my Other VTA car a Associated TC4 FT (shaft drive) Geared taller at 4.6 comes in no problems after 10 min at 130F


No Timing advance on either car and the same track with the same traction.

Anyone got any Idea's?

Also the Track is very Very tight lots of 180 degree corners and about 40x60'



The current gearing is the smallest I can go in pinion as the motor is tight against the motor mount



With the Pinion off the car rolls free
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