R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 01-06-2012, 08:31 AM   #946
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 6
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by BCZero View Post
I tried all the combinations and settled on gear diff in the rear with the solid axle up front, the ball diff just didn't feel as settled for me, but it's probably dependent on your driving style....if you get a really thick 100k+ diff oil in the front it will act close enough to a fixed axle any way, and then you still have the metal out drives, compared to the plastic ones that break easy on the fixed diff...I'm one break away from going back to 2 gear diffs.
Thanks so much for your advice.

Since im still very new to Sakura products...just gonna test diff oil variation until it break then would buy the solid axle for the front. The track where i usually go to has both touring and buggy (mostly Nitro 1/8) courses. Their main product they stock are Mugen Seiki, are their suspension & diff oil good?
driftmeister8 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-07-2012, 06:34 AM   #947
Tech Adept
 
BCZero's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 103
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

The best weight oil I used when I ran a front gear diff was 300k weight, basically worked like a fixed axle, just heavier...

Can't comment on Mugen seiki oils in particular haven't used them. The weight rating "should" be pretty much universal though.
__________________
Stock: XRay T3 '12, F1: Tamiya F104v2, Buggy: Tamiya TRF201, SCT: AE SC10 4x4 FT, Radio: Airtronics MT-4
BCZero is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-07-2012, 07:07 AM   #948
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Northeast GA
Posts: 1,685
Default

I locked my front gear diff with plumbers putty. Love the way the car pulls out of the turns. Shaved .2 seconds a lap on a track that averages 12.5 seconds a lap.
__________________
3Racing Sakura XI 17.5 TC
Formula Rabbit (FGX conversion) 21.5
STRC LCG 2WD Slash 17.5
Serpent S120 13.5
6376vette is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-07-2012, 12:57 PM   #949
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Dallas, TX, USA
Posts: 10
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Does anyone here have experience with both the Sakura Zero S and the Xpress Roadrunner Pro (new old stock)? I am looking to get into TC racing with either of these kits. Any help would be appreciated.
Zarkon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-07-2012, 02:11 PM   #950
Tech Addict
 
FauxMako's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Marietta, GA
Posts: 523
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Zarkon View Post
Does anyone here have experience with both the Sakura Zero S and the Xpress Roadrunner Pro (new old stock)? I am looking to get into TC racing with either of these kits. Any help would be appreciated.
I assume that "new old stock" means it's out of production and no longer supported. Given that, I'd go with the kit that is in production and supported over the kit that is out of production and not supported. Unless you know of a reliable supply of spare parts for the Xpress I'd steer away from it.
__________________
Mike

3 3Racing Sakura Zeros: Mustang Boss VTA // Lexus LFA USGT // MazdaSpeed 6 TC
Mini M03 & M05
Life is better with a soundtrack
FauxMako is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-07-2012, 04:16 PM   #951
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: London Ontario Canada
Posts: 557
Talking

Lou's Speedway near London Ontario Canada is now handling the ZERO S and all the parts and hop ups. Adam Hutchinson who won VTA at the Halloween Classic and the Cleveland US Indoor Champs is building a ZERO S for CANADIAN VTA 21.5. Adam helps out at Lou's. Three cars were purchased for CVTA Class Racing.
__________________
Number 49 Lou's Speedway Canada, Honda House www.hondahouse.com
ElliotCanada is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-07-2012, 07:47 PM   #952
Tech Champion
 
SteveM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Ottawa, Ontario, CANADA
Posts: 5,622
Trader Rating: 125 (100%+)
Default

I ran my Sakura Zero S tonight in practice for a club race tomorrow in Ottawa and it was brilliant. It was a bit loose in the rear but some minor tweaks had it tracking much better. Should be very interesting to see how it does in race conditions. I can't believe this sedan works this well for the price.
SteveM is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-08-2012, 10:03 AM   #953
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 6
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by BCZero View Post
The best weight oil I used when I ran a front gear diff was 300k weight, basically worked like a fixed axle, just heavier...

Can't comment on Mugen seiki oils in particular haven't used them. The weight rating "should" be pretty much universal though.
Thanks for the great advice...put 300k gear oil for the front, it felt like an FWD car. No oil leaks whatsoever since it's so thick. I notice the stock 2000 diff oil is totally drain out. Not surprise the rear has none inside too. What do you reckon the rear diff oil weight should be to balance off some of the FWD effect.

Btw my stock Tamiya semi-slick are totally gone after the wonderful drive. If the effect is like an Front Drive, should I buy different tyre soft/hard for front & back combo?
driftmeister8 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-08-2012, 10:19 AM   #954
Tech Elite
 
Pro10noob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: The Netherlands
Posts: 2,074
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

I don't know what you guys doing "wrong" but in my Sakura i had 900 oil in the rear and it worked perfectly.
Had to refill it once every 2 races but after a replacement of the o-rings in the dif by a softer type i had no leakage at all

regards Roy
__________________
l===/o\===l
[_]-###-[_] V-link proto type Pro10,JKMR P235-SE Pro10
P235-VL Pro10 comming soon
Sponsered by me,myself and i :)
Pro10noob is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-08-2012, 06:55 PM   #955
Tech Adept
 
competionpark's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Crossville, Tennessee
Posts: 133
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Send a message via Yahoo to competionpark
Default

hey guys, my brother and I have purchased these kits as our first touring car kits and put them together this weekend. we are really excited about making some right turns as we have been racing oval cars for the last twelve years. there are a few questions that may have already been covered.
1. what is a ballpark fdr for 25.5 vta on large outdoor tracks
2. as far as weight added, how much lead are people adding to balance the lars l/r and where
3. not being used to tc's we didn't really have much of an idea as to what servo to use for steering. his car has a spektrum z590 in it that we had laying around, but what are optimum specs? I figured someting around a 90oz with a .13-.15 would work, but any suggestions?

looking forward to making some laps and getting involved in tc's

thanks in advance
competionpark is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-08-2012, 07:17 PM   #956
Tech Master
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Grand Portage, MN
Posts: 1,362
Trader Rating: 39 (100%+)
Default

for VTA (25.5) I would start at about 4.0 FDR but it all depends on the track our indoor track is very tight so we run about 4.5-4.8 FDR

For Servo do with .08 to .1 speed and anything over 75oz
__________________
______________________________________________
Jason Deadman

I race toy cars for fun. If I need to explain, you'll never understand.
jdeadman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-08-2012, 08:09 PM   #957
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: NZ
Posts: 674
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Zarkon View Post
Does anyone here have experience with both the Sakura Zero S and the Xpress Roadrunner Pro (new old stock)? I am looking to get into TC racing with either of these kits. Any help would be appreciated.
Avoid the Xpress,
Ancient design, possibly too fragile as well.
1101 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-08-2012, 09:24 PM   #958
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Northeast GA
Posts: 1,685
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by jdeadman View Post
for VTA (25.5) I would start at about 4.0 FDR but it all depends on the track our indoor track is very tight so we run about 4.5-4.8 FDR

For Servo do with .08 to .1 speed and anything over 75oz
+1 on the FDR and servo. Most of our racers are around 3.7 to 3.8 but get a cooling fan first. As far as weight the car will probably be left side heavy. I would suggest you put as much as will fit in front of the battery. If you need to add more place it behind or on top of the battery. Balance the car 50/50 left to right and as close to 50/50 front to rear as you can get it. Set your ride height then place the car on 4 scales to adjust the pressure applied to each tire. Try to get the fronts to be even then get the rears even. Then add the diagonal weights together and the totals should be close to even. This will make a huge difference in handling.
As far as how much weight to add.....depends on how much aluminium you have. If I remember correctly my box stock zero s needed 70 grams to make 1550. My sons almost stock zero s with the narrow chassis needed 100 grams. My almost full zero needs around 50 grams.
__________________
3Racing Sakura XI 17.5 TC
Formula Rabbit (FGX conversion) 21.5
STRC LCG 2WD Slash 17.5
Serpent S120 13.5
6376vette is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-09-2012, 08:52 AM   #959
Tech Champion
 
SteveM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Ottawa, Ontario, CANADA
Posts: 5,622
Trader Rating: 125 (100%+)
Default First Impressions

I have now run my Sakura in a club race ahe my impression of the Sakura is that it's a decent sedan and in the hands of a better driver it can be a contender for club events. It is not a high quality kit like the 417X, T3, 411, etc, so don't expect miracles. The stock setup worked well for me and if I had to pick one thing to fix it would definitely be the alloy motor mount. Access to the rear motor screw is a PITA and if you want access to the screw you must use the kit spur. You have to pass your wrench through the holes in the spur to reach the screw to adjust gear mesh. If you use a different spur (like I did) then there is no access to the rear screw. I have the optional vertical alloy motor mount on order and holefully this will resolve this design flaw.

The plastic parts seemed brittle during assembly and threading the bolts into parts was tough. I was worried that they would not hold up to racing but despite my off-track fun (I hit a few boards) nothing broke. The car took the punishment without a problem. My ride height was 6.5mm and I need to get that down. The clip shocks are not ideal but proved reliable and smooth. Associated 40wt oil and kit springs seemed to work well. The instructions give droop screw settings but you really need to double check with a gauge. I used my Associated droop gauge to ensure left to righ were equal.

I added one 0.3mm shim to the plastic steering belcrank as there was too much slop for my liking. This tightened the steering and helped the car track better. The stock servo saver was used which seems to be a direct copy of the Tamiya HD version and I had no issues. There was too much over stear with the stock setup and the rear was sliding out a bit too much. I moved the top of each rear shock in two holes and this resolved the problem. I didn't use the kit tires and rims replacing these with a new set of pre-glued Sorex 24Rs. I used Simple Green to clean the tires after each run and once dry, I applied a full coat of traction compound.

The rear shock tower bolts to the back of the rear bulkheads which places the rear body posts quite far back on the body. This made things tricky when trying to put the body clips on and I had to use pliers as room near the rear wing is tight. More of a pain than anything else. Fat fingers perhaps. I'm loving the stock gear diffs. No leaks and they still feel butter smooth after the weekend of racing. One less thing to worry about or fix.

I chipped a tooth on my 64P spur in the last qualifier and my repair wasn't quite right. I still managed to qualify 7th overall and made my club's GT2 A-main. Other than this glitch the car was a joy to drive.

Last edited by SteveM; 01-10-2012 at 09:13 AM.
SteveM is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-09-2012, 01:41 PM   #960
Tech Adept
 
redbarton's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 230
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

I ran my Zero S for the second time this last Saturday in our local club 17.5 (Blinky) class. I qualified last for the A-Main, but managed to move my way up and finish a very solid 3rd. I was one lap up on 4th, but two laps down from the leaders. (9.5 to 10.5 avg fast laps in A-main) I felt this was a great result since the top two guys are definitely veteran racers with years of experience and I've only been racing TC's off and on for about 2 years.

At the club level, this chassis is definitely more than capable. The stock set up is pretty decent for carpet. I moved my front shocks in one hole and the rear shocks out to free up the back end a little and to gain more steering on our very tight track. I also added about 2 oz. of weight to the battery side to balance things out. I might reduce that a little though.

One thing I don't like is the rear droop situation. It seems the rear shocks are too short to let the rear arms drop down in the proper range. I might switch out to a longer shock end to help out with this. The fronts are okay though. I also need to find a slightly thinner shock spacer. I go from 6.5mm to 4mm ride height with the stock stuff. I need to be at 5. Maybe new shocks and the +4mm towers are my next upgrade?
redbarton is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Sakura Zero - New Touring Car! InZane Electric On-Road 1355 02-14-2014 05:14 PM
New to the RC scene...need some help! Jmoney12 Rookie Zone 13 06-15-2010 10:21 AM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 01:19 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0