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Old 01-03-2012, 06:46 PM   #931
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Do the parts interchange between the Sakura Zero and the Zero S.

I'd like to put the bulkheads and the bulkhead covers from the Sakura Zero on the Zero S?

I hope I'm not getting my cars mixed up?? Just wandering if the aluminum pink bulks would fit the Zero S?
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Old 01-03-2012, 06:49 PM   #932
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Originally Posted by orcadigital View Post
Mike's tocal track is also selling 3 Racing parts online as well (tisk tisk).

Hot Shots RC
http://www.hotshothobby.com/3Racing-Parts_c32.htm

I also know they are due to get a massive stock order this week of parts.

I will also add that HKS has been nothing but terrible experiences for me, and I would not recommend them in any way, shape, or form.
Agree with your comments on hks. 2 orders 2 major problems for me. One ended in a PayPal dispute before they would work it out. TQ , hotshots, and rc Mart get my business
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Old 01-03-2012, 07:42 PM   #933
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Google TQ rc racing.... He sells most if not all parts for the sakura.
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Old 01-03-2012, 08:12 PM   #934
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Old 01-03-2012, 10:24 PM   #935
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hey Big Midget, yes the pink bulkheads and other parts do fit thr 's', they are all interchangable.
I purchased an 's' to be stable mate with my zero, and I also purchased the ali parts for it., I had no problems fitting the ali parts... Ive evn got the x1 steering system in both cars.
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Old 01-03-2012, 11:05 PM   #936
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Did the X1 steering go straight in or did it require mods? How are you finding it?

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Originally Posted by davenz View Post
hey Big Midget, yes the pink bulkheads and other parts do fit thr 's', they are all interchangable.
I purchased an 's' to be stable mate with my zero, and I also purchased the ali parts for it., I had no problems fitting the ali parts... Ive evn got the x1 steering system in both cars.
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Old 01-04-2012, 12:09 AM   #937
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Just out of curiosity...

Has anyone got a mylaps transponder mounted in their car using the bracket that comes with the transponder?

Ive been looking at my car for about an hour and cant find a place to put the bracket that will make it easy to remove and change between cars in the future.
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Old 01-04-2012, 12:48 AM   #938
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Quote:
Originally Posted by goldsworthy1 View Post
Just out of curiosity...

Has anyone got a mylaps transponder mounted in their car using the bracket that comes with the transponder?

Ive been looking at my car for about an hour and cant find a place to put the bracket that will make it easy to remove and change between cars in the future.
You can use servo tape to mount the transponder directly or using the bracket. That's all I do.
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Old 01-04-2012, 03:31 AM   #939
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Midget View Post
Do the parts interchange between the Sakura Zero and the Zero S.

I'd like to put the bulkheads and the bulkhead covers from the Sakura Zero on the Zero S?

I hope I'm not getting my cars mixed up?? Just wandering if the aluminum pink bulks would fit the Zero S?
Yes I've done a part for part conversion and they all fit fine.

Also, to the guys asking about leaking diffs, a tiny bit of ae green slime on the parts of the casing that meet the air will sort that out in no time.
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Old 01-04-2012, 08:13 AM   #940
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Quote:
Originally Posted by goldsworthy1 View Post
Just out of curiosity...

Has anyone got a mylaps transponder mounted in their car using the bracket that comes with the transponder?

Ive been looking at my car for about an hour and cant find a place to put the bracket that will make it easy to remove and change between cars in the future.
I use one of the screws for the upper deck. Use the one in the front on the servo side. The transporter can be mounted to clear the steering and the belt. It also has a lot of stuff around it so it won't get damaged even in a major crash. No need to use a longer screw. Kit screws are long enough.
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Old 01-04-2012, 08:33 AM   #941
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Also, to the guys asking about leaking diffs, a tiny bit of ae green slime on the parts of the casing that meet the air will sort that out in no time.
Thanks for the advice...gonna redo the diff with different oil grade this weekend.

i just downloaded Sakura Zero manual and notice the rear is using ball diff + front is solid axle. Would that improve more feel & grip? Or is that mainly for experienced racer?
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Old 01-04-2012, 09:40 AM   #942
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Hey Mingnon, the x1 steering does fit strait into the zero/'s' chassis. but since im using the centre weights I did have to modify the top part of the steering,, there is a peice that sticks out the back . I cut that off , now I have clearance for centre weights without drilling extra holes.
I have also turned the servo 90* to fit across the chassis. I did have to drill extra holes for servo mounts.
I find it alot smoother and the car seems to turn in more direct.

What u see in the pics is not the finished result, you can see the peice i had to cut off, and now I have replace the connecting arm with the correct one. Also now i have a low profile servo mounted.
It gives plenty of room for electrics.


I forgot to mention. I am using the 's' bottomg chassis plate on the zero.
Attached Thumbnails
3Racing Sakura Zero S-trains-001.jpg   3Racing Sakura Zero S-trains-002.jpg  

Last edited by davenz; 01-04-2012 at 01:07 PM.
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Old 01-04-2012, 12:32 PM   #943
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davenz View Post
Hey Mingnon, the x1 steering does fit strait into the zero/'s' chassis. but since im using the centre weights I did have to modify the top part of the steering,, there is a peice that sticks out the back . I cut that off , now I have clearance for centre weights without drilling extra holes.
I have also turned the servo 90* to fit across the chassis. I did have to drill extra holes for servo mounts.
I find it alot smoother and the car seems to turn in more direct.

What u see in the pics is not the finished result, you can see the peice i had to cut off, and now I have replace the connecting arm with the correct one. Also now i have a low profile servo mounted.
It gives plenty of room for electrics.
Davez
appreciate the reply and the pics, think i may have a go at this myself.
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Old 01-05-2012, 03:42 AM   #944
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Quote:
Originally Posted by driftmeister8 View Post
Thanks for the advice...gonna redo the diff with different oil grade this weekend.

i just downloaded Sakura Zero manual and notice the rear is using ball diff + front is solid axle. Would that improve more feel & grip? Or is that mainly for experienced racer?
I tried all the combinations and settled on gear diff in the rear with the solid axle up front, the ball diff just didn't feel as settled for me, but it's probably dependent on your driving style....if you get a really thick 100k+ diff oil in the front it will act close enough to a fixed axle any way, and then you still have the metal out drives, compared to the plastic ones that break easy on the fixed diff...I'm one break away from going back to 2 gear diffs.
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Old 01-05-2012, 04:13 AM   #945
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davenz View Post
Hey Mingnon, the x1 steering does fit strait into the zero/'s' chassis. but since im using the centre weights I did have to modify the top part of the steering,, there is a peice that sticks out the back . I cut that off , now I have clearance for centre weights without drilling extra holes.
I have also turned the servo 90* to fit across the chassis. I did have to drill extra holes for servo mounts.
I find it alot smoother and the car seems to turn in more direct.

What u see in the pics is not the finished result, you can see the peice i had to cut off, and now I have replace the connecting arm with the correct one. Also now i have a low profile servo mounted.
It gives plenty of room for electrics.


I forgot to mention. I am using the 's' bottomg chassis plate on the zero.
Just curious, what is the purpose of converting to the XI steering rack? Is it just to orient the servo 90 degrees? I have not had any space issues with electronics, and just not understanding the benefit of the conversion?

Quote:
Originally Posted by BCZero View Post
I tried all the combinations and settled on gear diff in the rear with the solid axle up front, the ball diff just didn't feel as settled for me, but it's probably dependent on your driving style....if you get a really thick 100k+ diff oil in the front it will act close enough to a fixed axle any way, and then you still have the metal out drives, compared to the plastic ones that break easy on the fixed diff...I'm one break away from going back to 2 gear diffs.
I run 100k front, 2k back, and have been pleased with the results. I have another diff built with 800 I might try swapping in the rear as well, as I know some other drivers are running 700 in their Xray's with good results. I have a front spool, but the plastic outdrives do seem a weak point, and I am hesitating to use it.
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