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Old 12-27-2011, 01:31 PM   #901
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I was building mine over the holidays as well and the screws are all terrible. The plastic parts are also very tight making things worse. I had bought the rear alloy bulkheads and it was much nicer to bolt on the rear shock tower.
the screws are OK.
Put a small drop of thin oil or silicon spray on the screw & it make it alot easier to screw into the plastic parts
I figured this out only after my car was 90% built
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Old 12-27-2011, 02:58 PM   #902
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the screws are OK.
Put a small drop of thin oil or silicon spray on the screw & it make it alot easier to screw into the plastic parts
I figured this out only after my car was 90% built
The main issue with the screws is that the heads are not deep and my hex driver didn't go into them well. The stiff plastic is an easy fix and a dab of oil or silicone fluid works well.
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Old 12-27-2011, 03:34 PM   #903
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The main issue with the screws is that the heads are not deep and my hex driver didn't go into them well. The stiff plastic is an easy fix and a dab of oil or silicone fluid works well.
Have you tried a new hex driver? I have yet to have a problem with the kit screws or the titanium screw.
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Old 12-28-2011, 04:17 AM   #904
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Have you tried a new hex driver? I have yet to have a problem with the kit screws or the titanium screw.
Yes...I've been building for many years and I have a good set of hex drivers.
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Old 12-28-2011, 02:01 PM   #905
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Could someone do me a quick favour and measure the standard shock length end to end?
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Old 12-28-2011, 09:21 PM   #906
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They're mini shocks, around 60mm full length, around 50mm measured from center of ball studs, using 22mm springs.
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Old 12-28-2011, 10:14 PM   #907
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They're mini shocks, around 60mm full length, around 50mm measured from center of ball studs, using 22mm springs.
Super thank you
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Old 12-29-2011, 08:54 AM   #908
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What is the difference between the stock gear diffs that come standard in the Zero S kit and the Ver. 2 gear diffs for the Sakura Zero?
The main difference is the outdrives. They are aluminum instead of steel, and have wider slots designed to be used with pin blades. The gears look identical between the 2, and I do not know if they are any harder/softer.

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So if I pick up a Zero S, I would need to upgrade the diffs?
No need to upgrade them unless you want to. It's hard to say how the wear will compare between steel outdrives, and aluminum with blades.

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In looking at the parts, (ie, suspension arms, hubs, suspension arm pins) the 3Racing parts seem almost identical to XRay parts. Are the 3Racing suspension parts interchangeble with the XRay parts?

Also I noticed that that XRay shafts are 50mm / 52mm while the 3Racing shafts are shorter at 44mm / 46mm. I doubt that the Sakura Zero has shorter arms so is this because the Sakura Zero has longer diff outdrives?
Xray C-Hubs are a direct fit. Knuckles and arms I was under the impression match Tamiya offerings for the 416/417. You can use the shafts from the Tamiya 416/417, including the Spec-R ECS axles. They are 46mm.

One note on the rear arms, as I have not seen this mentioned yet. There are 2 rear arm options, regular Zero, and hard Zero. These arms are not the same. The hard arms are a direct replacement for the ones that come with the Zero S. The regular arms are shorter (narrow the car, but not sure how they compare to the XI arms) and have a second mounting hole for the lower shock mount. Both holes are further inboard then the hard arms. I am able to use the narrower standard arms and the narrow suspension blocks with the 44mm axles. 46mm would not work, and 42 would probably be better. I have not tried with a V2 diff (with the different outdrives). I also found I had to add an extra 0.5mm shim on the rear inner hinge pin with these arms (2.5mm total) and had to sand the rear hub carrier sides so that it rotated freely around the outer hinge pin.
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Old 01-01-2012, 07:25 AM   #909
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Anyone selling a Sakura???
Interested in getting one with brushless system on.
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Old 01-01-2012, 08:52 AM   #910
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Just finished the build on my Zero. I added the alloy rear bulkheads and the spur gear adapter. Overall, not too bad and I just need to prep a body and install my electronics for the next club race.

Last edited by SteveM; 12-24-2015 at 08:58 AM.
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Old 01-01-2012, 02:15 PM   #911
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Did you run a bead of CA glue on your tires? I dont think they are preglued from the factory.

Other wise, looks great! You'll love it!
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Old 01-01-2012, 02:55 PM   #912
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Did you run a bead of CA glue on your tires? I dont think they are preglued from the factory.

Other wise, looks great! You'll love it!
Thanks for the compliment. I don't plan to use the kit tires so they are still not glued.

I changed spurs so that I could match the FDR I am using with my TC3 and now I can't access the rear bolt that secures the motor to the mount. I rjust ordered the vertical motor mount, part SAK-S17/PK.
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Old 01-01-2012, 03:53 PM   #913
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That's the easy way to do it... but if you look at the kit spur you'll see it has giant holes to allow you to access that screw.

Some of my other spurs had them as well, others didnt
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Old 01-01-2012, 05:00 PM   #914
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That's the easy way to do it... but if you look at the kit spur you'll see it has giant holes to allow you to access that screw.

Some of my other spurs had them as well, others didnt
As I mentioned, I'm not using the kit spur as I prefer 64P gears in my sedans. I went with a 92T spur and 44T pinion with 38/19 pulleys to give a FDR of 4.182.
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Old 01-02-2012, 08:49 PM   #915
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Here's my Zero with a freshly painted body. I didn't have pink paint and this is the best I could do with what I had on hand and considering the very cold weather for painting.

Last edited by SteveM; 12-24-2015 at 08:58 AM.
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