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Old 12-25-2011, 06:17 AM   #886
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I'm new to electric racing as well as on road. I've been racing off road buggies for 6 years now.
I will be racing in Club races so no rules apply.
My q's are whether the drivetrain can handle the power of a 5.5T motor?
What battery capacity should i use for racing?
How large should the battery be to fit the car's battery place?? I mean external diamensions...
What body do we use?? 190 or 200mm??
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Old 12-25-2011, 07:20 AM   #887
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Originally Posted by vti-chris View Post
I'm new to electric racing as well as on road. I've been racing off road buggies for 6 years now.
I will be racing in Club races so no rules apply.
My q's are whether the drivetrain can handle the power of a 5.5T motor?
What battery capacity should i use for racing?
How large should the battery be to fit the car's battery place?? I mean external diamensions...
What body do we use?? 190 or 200mm??
I don't know how much help this.is because I run vta with mine but the chassis should be able to handle the power but you may find yourself picking up some of those pretty pink parts to make it better.

The 190 or 200 body's should work fine but you should get more wheel well room with a 200.

If you are new to on road you may want to go 17.5. 5.5 is going to be crazy fast on the race track. Crazy fast = lots of broken parts. That goes for anyone's chassis. the sakura is as tough as any other but it will still break.
Whatever you decide have fun with the sakura. Its a great car.
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Old 12-25-2011, 06:50 PM   #888
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I received my Christmas present from my girlfriend, she loves the pink.

Since I can't link to pics:

Kit
Alum Damper set
19T pulley set
Alum shock spring base
Spur shaft
Alum gear adapter
s17 vertical motor mount
Alum belt tensioner
Alum servo mount
Alum brushless heatsink/fan in pink

Now to figure out what to do about the body and running gear.
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Old 12-25-2011, 10:27 PM   #889
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I almost soldered on a 5.5T on mine, but decided to try 17.5 since I'm not really shooting for absolute straightline speed, plus our track isn't big enough for 5.5T really.

I'm glad to say, I'm having a blast running 17.5, nice balance in speed and cornering and I have my car pretty much dialed in for the small track that we run on.

All my friends' cars are running 17.5, including a Xray T3 11, BD5, and TA05V2 and we're all pretty even in lap times, some have better straight line speed, some better cornering. All that means are nice tight races, great fun!
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Old 12-26-2011, 01:22 AM   #890
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Thank you for the info...

What pinion do i get with the kit...if any?

Does it include rims with it?
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Old 12-26-2011, 10:09 AM   #891
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Do the Tamiya TA05/TT01 or X-Ray T2 shocks fit the car?

Any others manufacturers shocks work on the standard shock mounts?
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Old 12-26-2011, 10:13 AM   #892
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vti-chris View Post
Thank you for the info...

What pinion do i get with the kit...if any?

Does it include rims with it?
No pinion included, tires and rims are.
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Old 12-26-2011, 07:16 PM   #893
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Hey guys, got my Zero S for christmas and started building it today. I got some upgraded parts with it as well. Has anyone else had problems with these screws.. They are horrible. Unless my tools are just that bad which i don't think is the case, what are you guys doing about this. I dont race until the spring so I have planty of time, but this is annoying.
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Old 12-26-2011, 07:22 PM   #894
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I had no problems with the screws from 2 kits. A high quality hex screw driver is a must with any kit. $15 for a driver is not much to spend to stop the headache of 1 stripped screw.
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Old 12-26-2011, 07:32 PM   #895
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Yea, if it wasnt bad before, it is now so ill be picking one up. It is 2.0mm for most the screws in this kit right, my label has worn off. And my problem now is that I have a screw mostly in but not quite and I am at the point where I can not unscrew it, nor screw it in. I probably havent had any problems before because I havent had to screw into plastic so much.
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Old 12-26-2011, 07:58 PM   #896
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Yeah and get some Tylenol for your cramped hand.
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Old 12-26-2011, 08:04 PM   #897
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I found that it is best to tap threads into the plastics parts 1st.
I stripped 2 holes, so I tapped them and had no more problems....
I have since replaced the bulkheads with the alloy parts from the zero.

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Old 12-26-2011, 08:34 PM   #898
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Ive been involved in the building and racing of 3 sakura s chassis and 2 fgx chassis and have not had a problem with any assembly or stripping of screws. I think people over estimate how much torque in needed to keep these screws tight. Remember these are small screws in a small car not head bolts for a Chevy 350.

Quality tools are a must when building any kit. I only had a problem with a worn out driver. Replaced the driver and all of the kit screws worked fine. Now I will have to say the turnbuckles are not the best. The only wrench that will fit is pliers.
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Old 12-26-2011, 08:37 PM   #899
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RyeRey521 View Post
Hey guys, got my Zero S for christmas and started building it today. I got some upgraded parts with it as well. Has anyone else had problems with these screws.. They are horrible. Unless my tools are just that bad which i don't think is the case, what are you guys doing about this. I dont race until the spring so I have planty of time, but this is annoying.
Try a new hex driver. mine looked good but it wasn't. On these small screws a little wear on the driver makes a huge difference between working great and stripping heads.
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Old 12-27-2011, 06:09 AM   #900
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RyeRey521 View Post
Yea, if it wasnt bad before, it is now so ill be picking one up. It is 2.0mm for most the screws in this kit right, my label has worn off. And my problem now is that I have a screw mostly in but not quite and I am at the point where I can not unscrew it, nor screw it in. I probably havent had any problems before because I havent had to screw into plastic so much.
I was building mine over the holidays as well and the screws are all terrible. The plastic parts are also very tight making things worse. I had bought the rear alloy bulkheads and it was much nicer to bolt on the rear shock tower.
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