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Old 11-13-2011, 04:49 AM   #781
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Hi.

Thinking about buying this car. But what size motor would be a good size (t) to use it for parkinglot bashing and some drifting?

And what size bodys does fit? 190 or 200? All that fits tt01? Or is it trouble with the rear posts?
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Old 11-14-2011, 05:22 AM   #782
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Runs 540 size motors, but if you're referring to speed? Just get whatever you are comfortable with!

It takes 190mm bodies, different holes to a tt01 but a quick few seconds and you're good to go.

Good luck!
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Old 11-14-2011, 10:02 AM   #783
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200mm bodies work fine too. Just use wheel spacers or get wheels with higher offsets to fill out the wheel wells.
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Old 11-14-2011, 10:40 AM   #784
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Ok, what about shape? Could I use all types? Porsche, merc and so on, or does it have to be a type protorform or that kind of "touringcar" shape?
And it's only the bodyposts that are different from the tt01, not the shockclerance or that sort of thing?

Is it offset 0 rims with 190mm body?

Regarding engine I was thinking about speed. I want to go brushless. But wondering how fast engine I should get. I have seen in the tread that there could be some issue with the size of the spurwheelsize with some engines. What would be the best match? 17,5t?
I would like a fast and strong engine. No class for competition.
My local dealer have it with 13,5t
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Old 11-14-2011, 10:58 AM   #785
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Anthias View Post
Ok, what about shape? Could I use all types? Porsche, merc and so on, or does it have to be a type protorform or that kind of "touringcar" shape?
And it's only the bodyposts that are different from the tt01, not the shockclerance or that sort of thing?
Yep, just pick one you like. The difference is in the location of the body posts between different chassis, so if someone has already put mounting holes for a TT01 on the body you'd more than likely need to open up some more holes.
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Is it offset 0 rims with 190mm body?
Yes. 190mm is the width of the body. Wider wheel hubs or offset wheels push the wheels out to fill out a 200mm body.
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Regarding engine I was thinking about speed. I want to go brushless. But wondering how fast engine I should get. I have seen in the tread that there could be some issue with the size of the spurwheelsize with some engines. What would be the best match? 17,5t?
I would like a fast and strong engine. No class for competition.
My local dealer have it with 13,5t
If you aren't racing in a class, then the motor is up to you. Lower "T" number is more power. 17.5 is the norm for touring cars. 13.5 is super stock classes. Lower for mod classes. All 540 size motors will mount up the same. But, your gearing will be different depending on the power of the motor.
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Old 11-14-2011, 12:06 PM   #786
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Yes. 190mm is the width of the body. Wider wheel hubs or offset wheels push the wheels out to fill out a 200mm body.
Yes i know how offset work on my big car so that should be ok. But on my big car, the default offset makes the wheel go a bit under the body, and does not give me the agressive look I like. Would 0 offset rims make them match the wheelarc or will they be a bit covered by the body?


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If you aren't racing in a class, then the motor is up to you. Lower "T" number is more power. 17.5 is the norm for touring cars. 13.5 is super stock classes. Lower for mod classes. All 540 size motors will mount up the same. But, your gearing will be different depending on the power of the motor.
Isn't it so that lower T gives more speed but less power? Would the car manage a 8,5T engine? And is it room for correct spure ? And would it be ok to drive it with such a fast engine or will i just get it spinning?
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Old 11-14-2011, 01:20 PM   #787
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Anthias View Post
Yes i know how offset work on my big car so that should be ok. But on my big car, the default offset makes the wheel go a bit under the body, and does not give me the agressive look I like. Would 0 offset rims make them match the wheelarc or will they be a bit covered by the body?
I don't think I've ever seen an RC wheel with negative offset. Typically they are 0, 3, 6, 9 and 12mm. Higher numbers stick out further. Not all wheels will be offered in all offsets. As far as what offset you need, it depends somewhat on the body and the look you want. Some bodies have more wheel arches/flares than others. You can also use washers and/or thicker wheel hexes to manipulate width if the wheels you want aren't offered in the offset you want. 0/3mm for 190mm bodies, 3/6/9 for 200mm bodies is a good starting point.

Since you said you aren't racing, just get what you like the look of. You aren't going to be limited by any class rules.

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Isn't it so that lower T gives more speed but less power? Would the car manage a 8,5T engine? And is it room for correct spure ? And would it be ok to drive it with such a fast engine or will i just get it spinning?
If you're just planning on bashing/running around a parking lot, I'd stay in the 13.5-17.5 range. It'll be plenty fast. Going lower can definitely get your top speed up, but, yes, at the cost of acceleration.
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Old 11-14-2011, 01:48 PM   #788
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Quote:
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I don't think I've ever seen an RC wheel with negative offset. Typically they are 0, 3, 6, 9 and 12mm. Higher numbers stick out further. Not all wheels will be offered in all offsets. As far as what offset you need, it depends somewhat on the body and the look you want. Some bodies have more wheel arches/flares than others. You can also use washers and/or thicker wheel hexes to manipulate width if the wheels you want aren't offered in the offset you want. 0/3mm for 190mm bodies, 3/6/9 for 200mm bodies is a good starting point.

Since you said you aren't racing, just get what you like the look of. You aren't going to be limited by any class rules.


If you're just planning on bashing/running around a parking lot, I'd stay in the 13.5-17.5 range. It'll be plenty fast. Going lower can definitely get your top speed up, but, yes, at the cost of acceleration.
That's the answer then. A 190mm is not always 190mm-dead. It can be different arches width. Guess I go for a 190 body then, so I can use my traxxas rally tires. :-)

And 13,5 would be good I guess. There are no spurewheel in the kit?
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Old 11-14-2011, 01:59 PM   #789
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Quote:
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And 13,5 would be good I guess. There are no spurewheel in the kit?
The kit comes with a spur gear, not sure the number of teeth, but 48 pitch. Specs on the spur gear should be in the manual. No pinion gear in the kit.

The kit does come with wheels and tires. 24-26mm wide, basic tread. White spokes. Pretty sure they are 0 offset. Not positive, never used them. They should be fine to start with.
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Old 11-14-2011, 02:39 PM   #790
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Great info! Tnx! :-)
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Old 11-15-2011, 03:13 AM   #791
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I find the stock 3Racing tires to have great grip.. though at the cost of relatively quick tread wear. But...for $10 a full set (around $15 shipped from HK) I wouldn't complain.

If you plan on just bashing though, you'd probably want something that'll last longer.
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Old 11-15-2011, 09:20 AM   #792
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More good info.

But I have a lot of wheels and tires for my Traxxas Rally, and they are also 12mm hex with 0 offset so they should work. Have some HPI sets. I have a set of X-patern that gives to much grip for the Rally, it just flips with them. Guess they would work on the Sakura. The original Rally tires should be good for drifting. Then I can permanently convert my Rally to a Merv, and use the Sakura for speed and drifting.
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Old 11-17-2011, 12:22 PM   #793
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So I'm pretty certain I'm going to order a Zero S. I've skimmed through this thread, but admittedly haven't made the time to read each and every page. Huckman (Mike) races locally with me and is a huge proponent of the Zero S. Unfortunately, I only get to chat with him on Saturdays when we're racing. LOL. Anyway, he and the rest of this thread has convinced me this is quite possibly THE best bang for the buck when it comes to belt-driven TC cars. I know I'm going to order the following with it:
  • Extra A-arms
  • Extra hubs
  • Extra C-carriers
  • Extra A-arm mounts
  • Aluminum, vertical motor mount

I won't order a new top plate as I understand only a little mod is needed to use the stocker.

I see there are mixed opinions on whether or not smaller pulleys are needed. I think Mike slotted some screw holes and was able to get some loose and smooth front belt action. Any other thoughts on this?

I'll need a 4.6:1 FDR for the GT class I run and am currently running 48P gears in my shafties, but will most likely switch over to 64P with the Zero S. Has anyone run into any problems running small spurs? I see some of y'all have super huge pinions. I'm trying to avoid the extra rotating mass.
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Old 11-17-2011, 01:04 PM   #794
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rodarbal View Post
So I'm pretty certain I'm going to order a Zero S. I've skimmed through this thread, but admittedly haven't made the time to read each and every page. Huckman (Mike) races locally with me and is a huge proponent of the Zero S. Unfortunately, I only get to chat with him on Saturdays when we're racing. LOL. Anyway, he and the rest of this thread has convinced me this is quite possibly THE best bang for the buck when it comes to belt-driven TC cars. I know I'm going to order the following with it:
  • Extra A-arms
  • Extra hubs
  • Extra C-carriers
  • Extra A-arm mounts
  • Aluminum, vertical motor mount

I won't order a new top plate as I understand only a little mod is needed to use the stocker.

I see there are mixed opinions on whether or not smaller pulleys are needed. I think Mike slotted some screw holes and was able to get some loose and smooth front belt action. Any other thoughts on this?

I'll need a 4.6:1 FDR for the GT class I run and am currently running 48P gears in my shafties, but will most likely switch over to 64P with the Zero S. Has anyone run into any problems running small spurs? I see some of y'all have super huge pinions. I'm trying to avoid the extra rotating mass.
I haven't see anyone break any hubs or arms. Spares are never bad, but unless you are breaking them on other cars in your class you may be able to skip them.

Haven't verified it personally but a chart was posted here:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/9694373-post651.html
of all the possible gearing combinations that would mount up.

As far as slotting screw holes to loosen up the front belt that only ones I can think of slotting would be the spur gear shaft screws. I'd be worried slotting the holes for the spur gear shaft that it would end up running at an angle and cause gear mesh issues. The force of the belts pulling one side to the front and one side to the rear would be trying to rotate it all the time. Could cause some binding as well.

Some have posted that the belt that comes with the Zero S kit and the belt you get when you order the option part aren't the same belt. Haven't confirmed that either.

I solved it with the alum spur gear holder and 19T pullies. Side effect is that it makes your IDR 2.0 and all that math becomes so much easier
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Old 11-17-2011, 01:30 PM   #795
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Thanks Mike! I think the ITR of 2.0 helps justify the pullies and aluminum spur mount.

Yeah, I've broken all of the above-listed parts at one time or another. Our non-forgiving boards at our track don't help, either. Better to be safe than sorry, especially since our LHS does not support this car.
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