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Old 10-20-2011, 03:41 PM   #721
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Originally Posted by Repulse View Post
I was just wondering, what weight diff lube should I use if I plan on drifting with my Zero S? This would only be for the front end, the rear end I am using a solid axle. I am also setting up CS, so I am not sure if this would affect it or not.

Thanks
can you let us know how you go with the CS, i would love to drift one of these
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Old 10-20-2011, 06:53 PM   #722
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Get some narrower axles as they will bind running the gear diff
I used 44MM at the rear.
Cheers Roy, sorry if I state the obvious, but Im assuming i do 44s front and rear, not just rear?


Edit; Nevermind, I just realised there are no narrow susp mounts for the front, so therefore i now assume i run standard track on the front??
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Old 10-20-2011, 07:57 PM   #723
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can you let us know how you go with the CS, i would love to drift one of these
As soon as I finish the build, I will send in a build-up. On a side note, if your the only person interested, I can just send it to you, either way.
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Old 10-20-2011, 08:43 PM   #724
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As soon as I finish the build, I will send in a build-up. On a side note, if your the only person interested, I can just send it to you, either way.
yes either way is okay by me
cheers
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Old 10-21-2011, 12:01 AM   #725
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You can somehow run the rear suspensionblocks at the front but you don't need to as this will ad more front bite.
From what i can remember is that the X1 front arms are 0.5MM shorter then the Sakura S arms.
You can run 44MM at the front but with spool you can run 46 also.
Some people run the X1 rear arms and the narrow suspension blocks for some reason and then you need to use the 42 perhaps even the 40MM drive shafts.

regards Roy

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Cheers Roy, sorry if I state the obvious, but Im assuming i do 44s front and rear, not just rear?


Edit; Nevermind, I just realised there are no narrow susp mounts for the front, so therefore i now assume i run standard track on the front??
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Old 10-21-2011, 12:05 AM   #726
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For drifting, use the spool at the rear or a locked rear 37 teeth diff.
For the centre pulleys use the 20 teeth for the rear belt and the 18 teeth for the front belt and a 38 teeth diff.
This will give you more drive at the rear and will so give you more CS.

regards Roy
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Old 10-23-2011, 07:26 PM   #727
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Default Setting up 49/52% CS

To setup CS on the Zero S, for the rear end I use the following parts:

SAK-08/pk - Solid Axle
SAK-09 - Solid Axle Outer Joint
SAK-07C - Center Pulley 22t
Tamiya 53867 - Ta05 36T 1-way pulley

Use these for a rear end ratio of 1.636.

On the Front end, I use the following setup:

SAK-65J - Front Pulley 39T/40T
Tamiya 51213 - Ta05 16T Center Pulley


You can use either the 39T for a 2.438 front end ratio or 40T for a 2.5 front end ratio. With the 39T you will have a 49% CS, and with the 40T you will get a 52% CS ratio.

With this setup, I havent had to use a belt tensioner, or change anything else from stock. If you have any other questions, just let me know. The links I included were to RCmart, however you can get the parts wherever you wish, if you wish to get the parts that I used.

Thanks,
Josh
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Old 10-23-2011, 07:34 PM   #728
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Josh
thanks for the info really appreciate it

Quote:
Originally Posted by Repulse View Post
To setup CS on the Zero S, for the rear end I use the following parts:

SAK-08/pk - Solid Axle
SAK-09 - Solid Axle Outer Joint
SAK-07C - Center Pulley 22t
Tamiya 53867 - Ta05 36T 1-way pulley

Use these for a rear end ratio of 1.636.

On the Front end, I use the following setup:

SAK-65J - Front Pulley 39T/40T
Tamiya 51213 - Ta05 16T Center Pulley


You can use either the 39T for a 2.438 front end ratio or 40T for a 2.5 front end ratio. With the 39T you will have a 49% CS, and with the 40T you will get a 52% CS ratio.

With this setup, I havent had to use a belt tensioner, or change anything else from stock. If you have any other questions, just let me know. The links I included were to RCmart, however you can get the parts wherever you wish, if you wish to get the parts that I used.

Thanks,
Josh
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Old 10-31-2011, 01:41 AM   #729
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Hi There. i just bought the Sak S, just for a fun car at the local track.
Will be fun racing a friends TT01. Couldnt bring myself to buy a TT01, the Zero S works out cheaper !!!!
(My Main/serious race car is an Xray)

Ive some questions.
- Any parts that are a bit weak, just so I can get some spares ??
- Are the geardiff outdrives plastic or metal ??
- Im guessing its good to go out of the box. But what are the upgrades to go for first, if at all . Parts seem so cheap.
- I read the alu bulkheads are a bit soft. Are the full version Zero diffs stronger, better?? (so cheap).
- Will all the Full version zero parts fit ??
- Does the S have dogbones or CV's ??
- some Xray parts fit ?? (I have heaps of Xray spares)
-will the gears/belts etc cope with a 5T brushless ??

few, thats it. Just waiting for delivery: thats the really hard part
Cheers
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Old 10-31-2011, 08:08 AM   #730
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1101 View Post
Hi There. i just bought the Sak S, just for a fun car at the local track.
Will be fun racing a friends TT01. Couldnt bring myself to buy a TT01, the Zero S works out cheaper !!!!
(My Main/serious race car is an Xray)

Ive some questions.
- Any parts that are a bit weak, just so I can get some spares ?? usual C hubs front arms, Not often, but those are the usuals
- Are the geardiff outdrives plastic or metal ?? metal
- Im guessing its good to go out of the box. But what are the upgrades to go for first, if at all . Parts seem so cheap. vertical motor mount
- I read the alu bulkheads are a bit soft. Are the full version Zero diffs stronger, better?? (so cheap). Havent had issue with any aluminum stuff
- Will all the Full version zero parts fit ??yes
- Does the S have dogbones or CV's ?? bones on front CVs on rear.
- some Xray parts fit ?? (I have heaps of Xray spares)Front steering blocks for certain
-will the gears/belts etc cope with a 5T brushless ??No clue, good luck to you

few, thats it. Just waiting for delivery: thats the really hard part
Cheers
see above
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Old 10-31-2011, 09:40 AM   #731
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Huh, mines got uni's in the front and bones in the rear. I got my chassis used. I should look at the book to see if mines backwards.

The rod ends/balls are 4.8mm. Doesn't match any of the other cars I have (HPI Sprint 2, OFNA JL10e, TC3). I broke a rod end on the steering (was running with no servo saver at the time). Other than that I haven't broken anything. I went ahead and ordered a set of the 4.8mm rod ends so I've got spares now.

If you do get the vert motor mount, be prepared to dremel the FRP top plate or get the upgrade one. The vert motor mount isn't required but it definitely makes gear changes much easier. If your spur gear doesn't have holes big enough to put a driver through you'll have a hard time getting gear mesh right without the vert motor mount.

The front belt is very tight. Either stretch it or get the alu spur holder and 19T pullies. Note that the stock plastic spur gear holder has 20T pullies that aren't removeable (ask me how I know that).

I'm going to look for replacement turnbuckles, the ones that I've got the raised portion in the center that normally is hex shaped is round, so you have to use pliers to adj them instead of a wrench. Not sure if this is a quality issue or something else. I just need to get lengths for all of them and find some replacements.
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Old 10-31-2011, 10:06 AM   #732
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Huh, mines got uni's in the front and bones in the rear. I got my chassis used. I should look at the book to see if mines backwards.
I may be backwards. Car is in the garage and Im in the office, had a 50-50 chance of guessing right
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Old 10-31-2011, 10:48 AM   #733
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Originally Posted by texastc View Post
I may be backwards. Car is in the garage and Im in the office, had a 50-50 chance of guessing right
I only know mine has uni's in the front because the set screw came out of one of the uni's a couple of weeks ago and one of the front wheels was just free wheeling. Car definiltely handles strangely with 3 wheel drive.
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Old 10-31-2011, 11:38 AM   #734
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Also upgrade the shocks and get a hard xray bumper. I broke a C-hub every heat until I got the new bumper and haven't broke anything since. With a 5.5 every time you go into the boards you will break.

My turnbuckles did the same thing. PITA to adjust.
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Old 11-01-2011, 01:41 AM   #735
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the plastic steering holder (component of the steering kit) broke quite easily on mine, aluminium replacement on the way for me, so id recommend that, c-hubs and steering knuckles are the only other bits that have broken on mine, but we have lots of unforgiving boards...
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