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Old 06-23-2011, 02:53 AM   #526
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Originally Posted by Marc_olly View Post
I run my sakura S on asphalt and the rear breaks out in tight corners.
I have no problems with the front, it is like driving on rails, it's just the rear.

My car is completely stock, still waiting for some parts.
Does anyone have suggestions as where to start?

Or even better, is there thread that explains all the setup options and their effects, or problems versus possible solutions?

Have searched but no luck yet...

Thanks!
Try moving the top rear shock mount closer toward the center of the car so the rear shocks are more laid down. This has the effect of softening the spring action on the rear which should create more rear grip on power. Move it in one hole at a time until you find the set up you like.
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Old 06-23-2011, 03:34 AM   #527
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You could try the topic about it's big brother the Sakura Zero without the S
Most of us narrow the rear of the car by using the narrow suspension blocks or the new shorter suspensionarms(the one for the new Sakura).
Also you can use 4mm wheel hexes and running a bit more neg camber.As said before lay the shocks a bit down to look if this helps.
Again my tip is contact Oscar at MBF as he is driving the Sakura zero S also with great succes
You could come by at Lelystad and then i can help you setup the car.

regards Roy


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Originally Posted by Marc_olly View Post
I run my sakura S on asphalt and the rear breaks out in tight corners.I have no problems with the front, it is like driving on rails, it's just the rear.My car is completely stock, still waiting for some parts.Does anyone have suggestions as where to start?Or even better, is there thread that explains all the setup options and their effects, or problems versus possible solutions?Have searched but no luck yet...Thanks!
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Old 06-23-2011, 05:04 AM   #528
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mandirigma View Post
Try moving the top rear shock mount closer toward the center of the car so the rear shocks are more laid down. This has the effect of softening the spring action on the rear which should create more rear grip on power. Move it in one hole at a time until you find the set up you like.
In my experience, standing the shocks up in the rear provides more on-power traction (for the rear tires).
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Old 06-23-2011, 01:47 PM   #529
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Marc_olly: stand up the rear shock, lay down the front.
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Old 06-23-2011, 07:47 PM   #530
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Default Laying down the shocks

From my experience and from what ive read in XXX Main TC set up book laying down the shock has the effect of softening spring action. It has something to do with the geometry of the shocks laying down as compared to straight up shocks. Straight up shocks = stiffer spring action. Layed down shocks = softer spring action.

When on power weight should naturally transfer to the rear of the car. If in this situation the car breaks traction at the rear the possibility is that there is not enough weight being transferred to the wheels that need it the most. Softening the rear as compared to the front will transfer more weight to the rear thus giving more traction on power. Other options would be increasing your negative rear camber as mentioned by pro10noob which increases the tires contact patch on hard cornering. You could also change spring tensions (harder front or softer rear). Or you could add a front sway bar. Each of these options would have different effects on different parts of the circuit as well. The trick is to find the best compromise on all corners.
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Old 06-23-2011, 11:42 PM   #531
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mandirigma View Post
From my experience and from what ive read in XXX Main TC set up book laying down the shock has the effect of softening spring action. It has something to do with the geometry of the shocks laying down as compared to straight up shocks. Straight up shocks = stiffer spring action. Layed down shocks = softer spring action.

When on power weight should naturally transfer to the rear of the car. If in this situation the car breaks traction at the rear the possibility is that there is not enough weight being transferred to the wheels that need it the most. Softening the rear as compared to the front will transfer more weight to the rear thus giving more traction on power. Other options would be increasing your negative rear camber as mentioned by pro10noob which increases the tires contact patch on hard cornering. You could also change spring tensions (harder front or softer rear). Or you could add a front sway bar. Each of these options would have different effects on different parts of the circuit as well. The trick is to find the best compromise on all corners.
That. Is one great post sir.
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Old 06-25-2011, 04:12 AM   #532
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Thanks for all the great tips and info!

I will give it a try after i rebuild it with some of the parts that arrived yesterday. Unfortunately my package arrived without the 19t pulleys...

Luckely the new motor mount and topdeck are there!

Thanks,

Marc
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Old 06-25-2011, 04:28 AM   #533
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Bummer that your pulleys arn't there
Don't forget the open de diff holes in you chassis as they are a bit thight and it helps also when you are flipping the belts to the other side when mounting the vertical motor mount

regards Roy


Quote:
Originally Posted by Marc_olly View Post
Thanks for all the great tips and info!

I will give it a try after i rebuild it with some of the parts that arrived yesterday. Unfortunately my package arrived without the 19t pulleys...

Luckely the new motor mount and topdeck are there!

Thanks,

Marc
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Old 06-25-2011, 06:52 AM   #534
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marc_olly View Post
I run my sakura S on asphalt and the rear breaks out in tight corners.
I have no problems with the front, it is like driving on rails, it's just the rear.

My car is completely stock, still waiting for some parts.
Does anyone have suggestions as where to start?

Or even better, is there thread that explains all the setup options and their effects, or problems versus possible solutions?

Have searched but no luck yet...

Thanks!
If the kit comes with 2 degree raer setup, change to 3 degree rear. Will provide more stability for the rear coming out of corners

And other thing is to narrow the rear .. far more grip this way
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Old 06-25-2011, 12:22 PM   #535
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Default narrow chassis

what are people using other than tape to secure battery from going towards belts. especially if you are running flipped belt setup
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Old 06-25-2011, 08:38 PM   #536
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what are people using other than tape to secure battery from going towards belts. especially if you are running flipped belt setup
I used the supplied battery strap, BUT i dremelled the hell out of the inside pieces. Plus instead of putting the center inside brace on the chassis, I instead bolted it on the upper deck inverted. It works, and was easy. Pardon the fur all over my chassis, I raced today and just got home from track. I havent cleaned her up yet.
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Old 07-08-2011, 10:32 PM   #537
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Hey Guys

I am a total newb to TC Racing and have just bought a Sakura Zero s with a few extra hop up parts. I currentlt have a Tamiya TA05-VDF and HPI Nitro RS3 4 both designed and set up for Drifting. I had a go on a friends TA05 - V2 and loved actually racing round the track instead of going round it side ways lol.
Any how i have a problem with the alloy suspension arm parts that i bought extra for it as in the front and rear arms seem to move quite a bit. Now i was wondering if this was natural (im guessing its not) and what the fix would be to tighten them up? Sorry for such a silly question but if anyone can help that would be much appreciated.

Regards
Dave
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Old 07-08-2011, 11:16 PM   #538
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I was about to ask a similar question but about the alloy suspension mounts. The holes for the kingpin are a lot bigger than the kingpin itself, Like they were designed for a spacer or something that isnt included or on the instruction.

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Old 07-09-2011, 01:01 AM   #539
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I was about to ask a similar question but about the alloy suspension mounts. The holes for the kingpin are a lot bigger than the kingpin itself, Like they were designed for a spacer or something that isnt included or on the instruction.

Check this part. You will need them for alloy suspension mounts

http://os.3racing.hk/products.php?products_key=2814
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Old 07-09-2011, 01:08 AM   #540
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You need these http://os.3racing.hk/products.php?products_key=2814 parts if you are using the alloy suspension mounts.
If you don't , you ruin the suspension mounts.

regards Roy


Quote:
Originally Posted by texastc View Post
I was about to ask a similar question but about the alloy suspension mounts. The holes for the kingpin are a lot bigger than the kingpin itself, Like they were designed for a spacer or something that isnt included or on the instruction.

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