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Old 05-01-2011, 08:31 AM   #406
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I have been breaking C-hubs constantly with my poor driving. I just put on this Hard Foam Xray T2 Bumper. It is a direct fit/replacement for the stock 3 racing foam bumper which I think is a littlw wimpy.


http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...rd-Foam-Bumper
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3Racing Sakura Zero S-xra301223.jpg  
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Old 05-01-2011, 09:04 AM   #407
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No wobble here.
Mine is a straight as an arrow
Perhaps as you say are the srews unevenly tightened.
Build me 4 or 5 of them now and had no problems what so ever.

regards Roy


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Originally Posted by andrewdoherty View Post
Has any one else noticed runout or a wobble in their gear diff when installed in the car? Mine is enough to move the bearing/bearing holder in and out as the drive train spins. I am curious if the screws are perhaps not tightened evenly on the gear diff causing this or maybe the mold for the gear diff case is wonky like the plastic spur gear plates are...
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Old 05-01-2011, 10:31 PM   #408
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Thanks fore the info!

Anyone else?
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Old 05-01-2011, 11:06 PM   #409
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewdoherty View Post
Is the only difference between the HD 3Racing Gear diff and the std gear diff the material the outdrives are made of?

It looks like the Zero S comes with the HD gear diff, right?


Has any one else noticed runout or a wobble in their gear diff when installed in the car? Mine is enough to move the bearing/bearing holder in and out as the drive train spins. I am curious if the screws are perhaps not tightened evenly on the gear diff causing this or maybe the mold for the gear diff case is wonky like the plastic spur gear plates are...
I had the same problem with both of the gear diffs I have built. In the end I put the diff together marked the position and used a heat gun to slowly heat up the pulley side until it ran true. No problems now.
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Old 05-02-2011, 09:31 AM   #410
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Originally Posted by SchuMi2 View Post
I had the same problem with both of the gear diffs I have built. In the end I put the diff together marked the position and used a heat gun to slowly heat up the pulley side until it ran true. No problems now.

can you explain this Schumi? I've just built my kit, still waiting for the electronics, but i'm having the idea the diff bearing holder is "too loose", like it's not turning totally straight. I've taken note of the position of the bearing holder, think i got it correctly in there on both sides, but still the diff is not tight enough in there. I think the word "wobble" fits the feeling i have when i see it turn. Not a big "wobble" but still... How do you heat up the pulley and what affect does this have on the bearing holder?

Note: My rear bearing holder on the right side the dot has position 35 minutes if i look at it like a clock, then the other rear side the position of the dot is at 25 minutes. I've changed the holder 1 tooth at a time at various positions, but still the wobble remains. Hope this is clear to y'all...
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Old 05-02-2011, 11:12 AM   #411
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Any well known online hobby stores sell this S kit?
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Old 05-02-2011, 04:41 PM   #412
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Originally Posted by djoefromreal View Post
Note: My rear bearing holder on the right side the dot has position 35 minutes if i look at it like a clock, then the other rear side the position of the dot is at 25 minutes.
This could be your problem why you are experiencing wobble on your gear diffs...the right and left side should be equal (ie if you have the right side at 35mins the left side should also be 35 mins.)

the bearing holder is a cam (shaped like an egg) so both sides have to be at the same position on the bulkheads so that the gear diff turns smoothly and straight. Hope i understood what you were trying to say here and that this comment helps.
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Old 05-03-2011, 12:43 AM   #413
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The bearing holder has as been said before a dot that should be pointing downwards in the manual.
If you adjust the belt with this bearing holder the dot on the bearing holder points on both sides forward or backwards.
On the right side it should be as djoefromreal said standing clockwise 35 minutes and when you turn the car around and look to the left side bearing holder on 25 minutes.
Looking then at the top rear of the car they are then both in the same position,pointing backwards.
Try it and you will see what he means.

regards Roy


Quote:
Originally Posted by Mandirigma View Post
This could be your problem why you are experiencing wobble on your gear diffs...the right and left side should be equal (ie if you have the right side at 35mins the left side should also be 35 mins.)

the bearing holder is a cam (shaped like an egg) so both sides have to be at the same position on the bulkheads so that the gear diff turns smoothly and straight. Hope i understood what you were trying to say here and that this comment helps.
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Old 05-03-2011, 01:07 AM   #414
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I think were all on the same page here. I have mine adjusted properly and evenly side to side as well and am experiencing the same phenomenon. Next time I get to the track I will see if adjusting the diff cover screw tensions alters the effect. Those screws were awefuly hard to install so it is possible I mis-tightened one or more in an effort not to strip the threads.
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Old 05-03-2011, 03:20 AM   #415
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There is also the possebility that the rubber seals isn't sitting right.
This could also get the housing to "wobble".
Take it apart and put it back together with out oil and the seal and see if it runs straight then.
If not then you got a deformation in the material.
If it is running straight without the seal,then you have to check if the seal is not to big or as said the srews are not evenly tightened

regards Roy
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Old 05-03-2011, 04:59 AM   #416
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Thanks guys, real helpful reply's here! And also good to hear that i'm not the only one having this issue

The screws to seal the diff were indeed HARD to get in there, i felt like i was raping the poor little thing Was also glad to see that these were the last non-inbus screws in the whole set!

I'll take the diff apart this week and see what it does without the rubber seal..

One more question:
When i put the car, assembled without electronics, on the floor and give it a swing forwards, it does not run for more that 2 meters. Does this mean there's too much resistance? (this is my first rc-car so i don't have any clue how smooth it should run...)

Thanks again!
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Old 05-03-2011, 06:53 AM   #417
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I have a question for you then.
Is this car complete stock?
No hop up parts present on the car?
Let me know and i could give you a complete good dutch building guide or PM me for some advice in dutch
There are some tricks to let it run smooth.
BTW where are you from?(city?) perhaps we can meet up at a circuit some times.

regards Roy

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Originally Posted by djoefromreal View Post
One more question:
When i put the car, assembled without electronics, on the floor and give it a swing forwards, it does not run for more that 2 meters. Does this mean there's too much resistance? (this is my first rc-car so i don't have any clue how smooth it should run...)

Thanks again!
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Old 05-03-2011, 08:07 AM   #418
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pro10noob View Post
The bearing holder has as been said before a dot that should be pointing downwards in the manual.
If you adjust the belt with this bearing holder the dot on the bearing holder points on both sides forward or backwards.
On the right side it should be as djoefromreal said standing clockwise 35 minutes and when you turn the car around and look to the left side bearing holder on 25 minutes.
Looking then at the top rear of the car they are then both in the same position,pointing backwards.
Try it and you will see what he means.

regards Roy
Oh I see...i must have misunderstood. Yes, both sides have to have the same orientation. The clock thing through me off and when i thought about it a bit more i see what you guys are getting at my bad.

hopefully disassembling the diffs and checking the seals and trying to tighten the screws evenly should solve the problem.

I now have a question of my own...has anyone else noticed how tight the belts are? Ive adjusted the diffs to try and ease off some tightness in the belts but even at their loosest setting the belts are still considerably tighter than other tc's ive tried.

I know the belts will eventually loosen with age but i figure as they are they must create a considerable amount of rolling resistance.
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Old 05-03-2011, 08:19 AM   #419
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As i asked before from djoefromreal,is the car stock?
If so i can give you a few tips on how to free up the drive train really quick

regards Roy

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mandirigma View Post
I now have a question of my own...has anyone else noticed how tight the belts are? Ive adjusted the diffs to try and ease off some tightness in the belts but even at their loosest setting the belts are still considerably tighter than other tc's ive tried.

I know the belts will eventually loosen with age but i figure as they are they must create a considerable amount of rolling resistance.
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Old 05-03-2011, 12:56 PM   #420
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Hi roy, just a quick reply from my phone now, I'm from Echt, limburg. ( thus from real ) car is completely stock indeed. I've ordered a ezrun set 60a 17.5 to start with and a flysky gt3b after reading some topics here and there, still doing some investigation for servo and battery atm...
Must say that the rctech forum is the most helpful one, even noob questions get serious replies over here
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