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Old 11-10-2015, 11:42 AM   #3391
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Ist it worth double the price?
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Old 11-10-2015, 11:51 AM   #3392
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Check out rcmart.

The Xi Sport is actually lower in cost than the Zero S.
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Old 11-10-2015, 12:47 PM   #3393
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Cheaper than the Zero at rcmart, but not cheaper as the "TD 10" at Hobbyking. But still amazing value for a better car.
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Old 11-10-2015, 12:48 PM   #3394
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Yup.

Nothing is cheaper than hobbyking.
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Old 11-10-2015, 12:50 PM   #3395
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Here in Germany the Sport XI is about 130 bucks and the stuff via Hobbyking would be 80 without shipping...
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Old 11-20-2015, 01:16 PM   #3396
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I'm not sure if it's been mentioned here yet, but I just found out that the bulkhead covers for the Zero do not fit the bulkheads for the XI.

I ordered a set of aluminum bulkheads (front and rear) to upgrade my Zero. I was able to mount them to the chassis (one of the bolts on each bulkhead piece will not line up properly with the chassis, but the chassis can be drilled). But then I went to put the plastic Zero bulkhead covers back on and the holes do not line up.

And now everyone seems to be out of stock on XI aluminum bulkhead covers....I suppose I could order some plastic XI bulkhead covers though.

Still a bummer.
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Old 12-21-2015, 05:02 AM   #3397
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Ordered some XI bulkhead covers and modified the Zero top plate to fit.

Now my problem is that the belts are a bit too tight. I'm using the stock Zero S (522/174T?) belt. Does anyone know of any belts that are slightly longer that I can use instead? Need probably 178-180T, but anything longer than 174 would be fine.
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Old 01-02-2016, 05:03 PM   #3398
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I just decided to get the vertical motor mount (SAK-S17) and the upper deck (SAK-S16) required for the upgrade. What did you guys do with the battery stay/stop? I flipped the diffs and the front drive's belt can't get through because of them.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/w0aaewakt6...102_200816.jpg

Last edited by Seanzky; 01-02-2016 at 05:13 PM.
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Old 01-02-2016, 06:29 PM   #3399
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You have to modify /cut /dermal the battery stop. If you look back, somewhere Stevem has a post about it. Don't forget to add some more battery stops along that side. Most ppl just use a servo mount cut up with a fat screw head to stop the battery from moving into the belts
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Old 01-02-2016, 07:39 PM   #3400
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TeamThibault View Post
You have to modify /cut /dermal the battery stop. If you look back, somewhere Stevem has a post about it. Don't forget to add some more battery stops along that side. Most ppl just use a servo mount cut up with a fat screw head to stop the battery from moving into the belts
Thanks! I did read up on those and I got the jist of it. It's just that some of the old pictures were taken down and I didn't have a visual reference. Anyway, I jumped on it and ended up with this:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/ggzdhz10bd...102_223648.jpg

https://www.dropbox.com/s/qe2u6dwrcw...102_223710.jpg

https://www.dropbox.com/s/8rm7ayspmq...102_223731.jpg

I hope that tiny thing I ended up with in the center is enough to stop the battery from spilling over to where the belt is.
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Old 02-25-2016, 09:08 PM   #3401
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Just paid under US$35 each (bought two kits) from hobbyking for their TD10's! Was from the Australian warehouse, and not sure if the sale is worldwide.
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Old 10-02-2016, 06:57 PM   #3402
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Well with my cf sakura zero s I finally did a new pb of 24 laps and miss the amain by 4 seconds. Was in second place then broke front spool on main.
Still a great day of racing
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