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Old 01-12-2014, 06:09 AM   #3226
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That's a good place to start. Roughly how large is the track you're driving on? What I've recommended is for a relatively small track, with a technical layout. Maybe start there, and check your running temperatures. If it's coming off cool, gear down a bit for some more top end if you have a few large straights
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Old 01-12-2014, 11:49 AM   #3227
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Originally Posted by (0000000000) View Post
I'm at the Victoria wcics right now. Brought my XI to race and the Zero S as a backup. I collided with Brent W and busted my steering bellcrank linkage, which is all plastic.

Switched to my Zero to finish qualifying today. IMO, the box stock zero is more durable than the box stock xi.

Slightly faster times with the stock XI. But the durability of the Zero S (aka: Turning TG10) is a real benefit.
For the price I can get it from asiatees.com, it seems to be a lot more car for the small price difference.
Are you coming to the kamloops WCICS?

have fun in vic
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Old 01-13-2014, 04:51 PM   #3228
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I want to change to cvd on the rear of mine what length for the stock rear suspension ?
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Old 01-14-2014, 12:31 PM   #3229
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Can someone explain why shorter suspension arms produce more grip on this car? Our club expert says longer arms should give more grip. I have just fitted the shorter ones on and will try it tomorrow. Hopefully it will fix the rear grip.
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Old 01-17-2014, 12:20 AM   #3230
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Can someone explain why shorter suspension arms produce more grip on this car? Our club expert says longer arms should give more grip. I have just fitted the shorter ones on and will try it tomorrow. Hopefully it will fix the rear grip.
Shorter arms might make it more twitchy and aggressive. Not sure if that means "grippy". But typically a wider track means a bit less reaction, UT a. It more planted-ness.
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Old 01-17-2014, 12:21 AM   #3231
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I want to change to cvd on the rear of mine what length for the stock rear suspension ?
I have used both 44mm and 46mm.

Whichever one is cheaper on Rcmart, is the one I would recommend.
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Old 01-17-2014, 01:31 AM   #3232
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Originally Posted by nibnobsam View Post
Can someone explain why shorter suspension arms produce more grip on this car? Our club expert says longer arms should give more grip. I have just fitted the shorter ones on and will try it tomorrow. Hopefully it will fix the rear grip.
Your club expert is wrong in that shorter arms in all makes of cars tends to produce more rear grip
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Old 01-17-2014, 06:44 AM   #3233
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Ok thanks guys. I had a go with it and the rear does seem a lot better. However the servo has failed now :/ so that might have been affecting it too if it was on its way out.
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Old 01-17-2014, 09:04 PM   #3234
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That's a good place to start. Roughly how large is the track you're driving on? What I've recommended is for a relatively small track, with a technical layout. Maybe start there, and check your running temperatures. If it's coming off cool, gear down a bit for some more top end if you have a few large straights
very large track with like 2 sweepers (not very technical) which is why the TT01 failed so bad because its mostly high speed driving
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Old 01-17-2014, 09:15 PM   #3235
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Originally Posted by (0000000000) View Post
I have used both 44mm and 46mm.

Whichever one is cheaper on Rcmart, is the one I would recommend.
thanks
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Old 01-21-2014, 11:03 AM   #3236
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can someone recommend me the diff oil and shock oil thickness?

going to run in parkinglot racing, no high grip.
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Old 01-21-2014, 12:00 PM   #3237
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I am currently running 500k cst front 500 cst rear in the diffs 32 three hole front 30 three hole rear
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Old 01-21-2014, 01:21 PM   #3238
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I am currently running 500k cst front 500 cst rear in the diffs 32 three hole front 30 three hole rear
thanks for quick response.

Are you sure you use 500 CST in the rear as diff oil? that loose?
I thought diff oil should all in k cst. I can see you put pretty thick 500k cst at front.

And 32 and 30 are the shock oil in WT right? which is 300-350 cst if I am correct.

I am confuse by people talk about oil, there is two set of unit WT/CST, and people, and the conversion is not so clear. I have this table, is this correct reading?

10wt/100cst
15wt/150cst
20wt/200cst
25wt/275cst
30wt/350cst
35wt/425cst
40wt/500cst
45wt/575cst
50wt/650cst
55wt/725cst
60wt/800cst
70wt/900cst
80wt/1000cst
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Old 01-21-2014, 02:56 PM   #3239
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yes your are good on your chart i was testing some RB shock oils and yes that loose in the rear diff reduces corner out push
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Old 01-22-2014, 12:00 AM   #3240
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Quote:
Originally Posted by modelerbj View Post
thanks for quick response.

Are you sure you use 500 CST in the rear as diff oil? that loose?
I thought diff oil should all in k cst. I can see you put pretty thick 500k cst at front.

And 32 and 30 are the shock oil in WT right? which is 300-350 cst if I am correct.

I am confuse by people talk about oil, there is two set of unit WT/CST, and people, and the conversion is not so clear. I have this table, is this correct reading?

10wt/100cst
15wt/150cst
20wt/200cst
25wt/275cst
30wt/350cst
35wt/425cst
40wt/500cst
45wt/575cst
50wt/650cst
55wt/725cst
60wt/800cst
70wt/900cst
80wt/1000cst
Hi there,

I have used the Sakura S Zero on a flat low grip bitumen surface, which tends to fluxuate between grip levels depending on the weather/how often it's cleaned. Here is what I was using in regards to silicone oil in the shock absorbers and front and rear differentials.

As for the shockers, depending on grip levels I was running 30wt-45wt. During summer, anything around 40wt works really well on this car on both the front and rear shockers, with realtively hard spring on the front and soft on the rear. I like to use the Associated oil, as the quality is great for the price. Keep in mind I was using the stock pistons, which I believe are 3 holes all round. As for conversions from CST to WT - I like to use this website: http://www.offroad-cult.org/Special/...wt_convert.php

For your front and rear differentials, I like to run a fully locked diff in the front (Spool) and Associated 1-2k in the rear. Depending on grip levels you may need to go either thicker or thinner in the rear. If you decide not to use a locked diff, for low grip asphalt, I ran anything between 10k and 1 million. This worked really well. If club rules are restricting you from using a locked diff - such as ours at the time - we found naughty ways to lock the front up like a spool. I tried both Putty in the front, and solidified playdough. Both worked well.

Best of luck
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