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Old 12-31-2010, 11:09 AM   #301
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I Have used stellamodels several times ordering odd parts for my ta05
i prefer a us option but i have zero issue paying for EMS from overseas.
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Old 12-31-2010, 11:33 AM   #302
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Originally Posted by monkee View Post
I Have used stellamodels several times ordering odd parts for my ta05
i prefer a us option but i have zero issue paying for EMS from overseas.
Thanks

Ordered from HK several times without issue but had never heard of Stella before reading this thread.
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Old 12-31-2010, 12:06 PM   #303
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i found stella from ebay tbh.
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Old 01-01-2011, 05:44 PM   #304
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Have any trouble fitting this battery in ?

http://store.hkshobby.com/product_in...oducts_id=6335

Intellect Lipo Battery (#IP-CC2S5000V5) 7.4v 5000mah 50C+ Race Pack for 1/10 RC Car


Voltage: 7.4v 2S
Capacity: 5000mah
Discharge Rate: 50C+
Balance Charge Plug: 2mm Connector
Discharge Plug: 4mm Connector
DIMENSION: 137.8 x 46.8 x 23.3mm
Weight: 235g
Packing: with Hard Casing
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Old 01-02-2011, 12:04 AM   #305
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Quote:
Originally Posted by madone View Post
Have any trouble fitting this battery in ?

http://store.hkshobby.com/product_in...oducts_id=6335

Intellect Lipo Battery (#IP-CC2S5000V5) 7.4v 5000mah 50C+ Race Pack for 1/10 RC Car


Voltage: 7.4v 2S
Capacity: 5000mah
Discharge Rate: 50C+
Balance Charge Plug: 2mm Connector
Discharge Plug: 4mm Connector
DIMENSION: 137.8 x 46.8 x 23.3mm
Weight: 235g
Packing: with Hard Casing
works well for me.
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Old 01-03-2011, 11:04 PM   #306
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So ive almost finished building my zeroS
3Racing Sakura Zero S-p1040046.jpg
3Racing Sakura Zero S-p1040041.jpg
Im totally impressed by this car.
I havent seen a better touring car for the price ever.
My feeling is the build quality is good where it counts.
And the motor mount is not the best as said in this thread but Ill be ok for 13.5, I think gearing to mid 4 i should be bale to tighten that one motor screw just...
The turnbuckles are rubbish, the tool the give you just goes around and around.
So ive got the threaded shocks on it because I think you have to be able to adjust the ride height accurately and the front sway bar coming.
The stock shocks with 2 hole 50 weight feel lighter than tamiya trf shocks 2 hole 40 weight which is weird.
The stock springs(short) feel like the short tamiya's The tension comes on strong and quick so opposite to the tamiya longs or the HPI's.
If your wondering im trying a saddle pack, I have a theory it might help keep the flex even as a straight pack tends to stiffen one side of the chassis.
More later when I get it on the track.
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Old 01-04-2011, 01:41 AM   #307
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That looks great ! Wished mine was here so I could join in on the fun.

Did you get the CF chassis ?
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Old 01-04-2011, 02:48 AM   #308
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I am almost done with my build and have few comments

Get Aluminum 1mm arm spacers as with the plastic ones you have to do lot of grinding to get bind free suspension as they are bit thicker than 1mm (1.13mm-1.18mm). The aluminum ones are 1.03mm thick.

Front sway bar balls integrated onto the arms need lot of sanding to get free movement.

If you use aluminum arm mounts as i did you will need to cut about 0.05mm from the bullhead for the mount to fit. (no big deal, did a quick job with exacto knife)

I used 3.2mm drill bit to make all the arm holes bigger for super free arm movement (I do it on all my cars, 3.1mm was not enough)

The center plastic pulleys are quite wobbly (not that big deal as I will run high turn motor) but still i think the alu adapters are a must.
Still fighting with the steering as it is not as smooth as i would want to, so today I will do some sanding on the hub or the king pin bushings.

The steering rack with the big washer right on top of the bearing makes no sense as it will bind as soon as you tighten the top screw. It is much better to put the washers the other way around with the 2mm spacer on the bearing and then the big washer.

I really like the chassis as it is more carbon than the one on my F1-09. If I ever do an upgrade i will go directly for the narrow chassis.


I think I will get the aluminum diff outdrives as the plastic ones are not as smooth as i would want to.

Still need to build the shocks (I will keep the plastic ones as I don't like threaded shocks) and mount electronics.
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Old 01-04-2011, 04:03 AM   #309
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lees52 View Post
So ive almost finished building my zeroS
Attachment 688169
Attachment 688171
Im totally impressed by this car.
I havent seen a better touring car for the price ever.
My feeling is the build quality is good where it counts.
And the motor mount is not the best as said in this thread but Ill be ok for 13.5, I think gearing to mid 4 i should be bale to tighten that one motor screw just...
The turnbuckles are rubbish, the tool the give you just goes around and around.
So ive got the threaded shocks on it because I think you have to be able to adjust the ride height accurately and the front sway bar coming.
The stock shocks with 2 hole 50 weight feel lighter than tamiya trf shocks 2 hole 40 weight which is weird.
The stock springs(short) feel like the short tamiya's The tension comes on strong and quick so opposite to the tamiya longs or the HPI's.
If your wondering im trying a saddle pack, I have a theory it might help keep the flex even as a straight pack tends to stiffen one side of the chassis.
More later when I get it on the track.
I recently built the 3 racing F-1 car.It was not even close to being a cheesy model.I wish the made or plan to make a 12 scale car.They do have top quality material and their models do have a lot of well thought out features built in them.I might just eventually buy their touring car.
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Old 01-04-2011, 01:37 PM   #310
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Quote:
Originally Posted by madone View Post
That looks great ! Wished mine was here so I could join in on the fun.

Did you get the CF chassis ?
Not yet, ill get that eventually, actually the FRP one is not to bad at all.
A 23mm high lipo fits underneath it just and its pretty stiff, but obviously the balance wont be perfect.
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Old 01-04-2011, 01:52 PM   #311
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All done,

it was pain to mount the MIG500 motor and as soon I get the new top deck I will switch to the vertical motor mount.

Got everything super free except the front sway bar mount (I did sand it to free it up a bit)

3Racing Sakura Zero S-p1000942.jpg

3Racing Sakura Zero S-p1000945.jpg
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Old 01-04-2011, 06:00 PM   #312
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Has anyone had any success modifying the included battery holder to work with the vertical motor mount? the new motor mount requires the belts to be flipped, with the front belt now on the battery side of the chassis, and the battery holder now fouls the belt. I think I can take off enough material from the parts to stop fouling the belt, but I don't think the Velcro strap can hold a battery tight enough to stop it sliding into the belt, though i think i could use a bit of lexan or something similar to stop that happening... Ideally I don't want to have to use tape!
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Old 01-04-2011, 07:39 PM   #313
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Hi guys
Can I use the 10.5 brushless on sakura s ? Is it necessary to buy something more to use that motor? And how about the spur/ gear, what sizes I must to buy to start?
Thanks
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Old 01-04-2011, 11:02 PM   #314
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Anyone else breaking front C hubs? I broke 2 racing tonight. I got to stop hitting boards but I am up to 3 broken now. Does any other cars fit? Like Xray? I am finding it hard to find replacement parts in stock at the moment.
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Old 01-05-2011, 02:12 AM   #315
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bbqshapes View Post
Has anyone had any success modifying the included battery holder to work with the vertical motor mount? the new motor mount requires the belts to be flipped, with the front belt now on the battery side of the chassis, and the battery holder now fouls the belt. I think I can take off enough material from the parts to stop fouling the belt, but I don't think the Velcro strap can hold a battery tight enough to stop it sliding into the belt, though i think i could use a bit of lexan or something similar to stop that happening... Ideally I don't want to have to use tape!
I just fit the vertical motor mount on and was wondering the same thing. Ended up removing the center battery stopper and replaced that with a short screw and nut. Cut off one side of the bracket that's in the way of the belt. Seems to work quite well
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