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Old 08-08-2013, 09:51 AM   #3061
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Originally Posted by clp.eng View Post

I have read that answer but I don't have the 19T pulleys so I'm guessing this will not apply to my set up.
With the stock spur and pulley you can go around a 23t pinion. That will give you a 6.61 fdr.
High turn motors (17.5t 21.5t etc..) have more torque and less rpm
Low turn motors (9t, 5.5t) have less torque and more rpm
With a 6.61 ratio your 9t motor would have 35 mph potential top speed, a 17.5t would go around 18mph. An undergeared motor will overheat as it will force. A little overgearing will prevent from heating but makes you loose power. Just need to find the optimal point between performance and heat.
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Old 08-09-2013, 08:29 PM   #3062
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Originally Posted by Kevin Marcy View Post
Unfortunately, the motor/ESC combo you've chosen is a sensorless system, so changing to a 21.5T motor would probably not work well. Sensorless ESCs do not work well with high-turn motors due to start-up issues. The one basic rule of brushless systems (sensored or sensorless) is if it's too hot, go smaller on the pinion gear. There isn't any "magic" FDR that fits all tracks & all cars. The 9T motor you've got is also probably why you haven't gotten much advice on gearing since most racers are running sensored 17.5T or 21.5T motors.

Spinning tires will NOT make your motor too hot. All motors pull more amps at low RPMs, with the amp draw decreasing as the RPMs go up. (Amps = heat.) The only way under-gearing can maybe make your motor hotter is if the car is so slow that you spend 100% of the time at full throttle.
Ok well thanks for that info. I'll have to stick to this motor combo until I have enough $$ to purchase another. I was thinking about lowering the throttle setting to about 90-85%. Would this help me be able to control the car better?

Racing for the third time tonight. This week I was able to do 5 minute runs and kept the motor about 140. Hopefully I'll be able to finish all my races tonight.

Thanks to all for the advice

TTS
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Old 08-09-2013, 08:32 PM   #3063
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Originally Posted by ttsquirrel View Post
well, my first day of racing didnt go well at all...

i was barely able to finish the car about 1 hr before the racing started. i am using this for my motor/esc. http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=42712

i bought the trackstar programming card to setup the esc but the freaking card would not work with this esc!! and then

with no programming card and no instructions on how to setup esc, i was stuck. the car would drive but i had no brakes.
I'm not sure if you're still fighting with this ESC or not, but if it came from the same factory as the Turnigy 1S ESC I got, the throttle setup might work like this:

1 - Hold full throttle on the transmitter
2 - turn on the ESC
3 - Keep holding until the ESC flashes green LED & it "rings".
4 - red LED now blinks & ESC beeps. Hold full brake.
5 - Keep holding until it "rings" again.
6 - yellow LED blinks & it beeps. Return trigger to neutral.
7 - ESC will ring again.

Actually, looking at the picture it doesn't appear to have 3 different color LEDs. Still, a procedure similar to this might work...
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Old 08-09-2013, 09:14 PM   #3064
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Originally Posted by Kevin Marcy View Post
I'm not sure if you're still fighting with this ESC or not, but if it came from the same factory as the Turnigy 1S ESC I got, the throttle setup might work like this:

1 - Hold full throttle on the transmitter
2 - turn on the ESC
3 - Keep holding until the ESC flashes green LED & it "rings".
4 - red LED now blinks & ESC beeps. Hold full brake.
5 - Keep holding until it "rings" again.
6 - yellow LED blinks & it beeps. Return trigger to neutral.
7 - ESC will ring again.

Actually, looking at the picture it doesn't appear to have 3 different color LEDs. Still, a procedure similar to this might work...
Hey thanks!!..I will try that and see what happens. Unfortunately though that means I can't access all the other features of the esc..

On another note, I actually finshed a heat.

TTS
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Old 08-09-2013, 11:11 PM   #3065
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Originally Posted by ttsquirrel View Post
Ok well thanks for that info. I'll have to stick to this motor combo until I have enough $$ to purchase another. I was thinking about lowering the throttle setting to about 90-85%. Would this help me be able to control the car better?

Racing for the third time tonight. This week I was able to do 5 minute runs and kept the motor about 140. Hopefully I'll be able to finish all my races tonight.

Thanks to all for the advice

TTS
Yes turn the throttle down to 80% and sneak up from there. When you stop hitting walls and your lines come cleaner go up a bit.most classes of racing are won by the guys that don't always have the fastest car but have the cleanest run.A 15 sec lap can be hard to get back when you need marshalling a couple of times throught the race.
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Old 08-10-2013, 02:59 AM   #3066
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Originally Posted by Yogi- View Post
Yes turn the throttle down to 80% and sneak up from there. When you stop hitting walls and your lines come cleaner go up a bit.most classes of racing are won by the guys that don't always have the fastest car but have the cleanest run.A 15 sec lap can be hard to get back when you need marshalling a couple of times throught the race.
+1

Exactly the same advice I give to those wishing to go faster, work on your car setup then your driving and you'll be getting faster lap times rather than bolting in a faster motor.

Cheers
Rob.
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Old 08-11-2013, 09:23 AM   #3067
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Hello everybody. Wow this is a long tread, i'm somewhere around page 50

So i bought a Turnigy td10 from hobbyking witch is from what i understand exactly the same as SZS. My first build and first touring car and it has been really fun. don't know about speed but really easy to drive. just tweaked the suspencion a little.

But then DISASTER i stripped my spur gear and it takes a long time to get the parts to Finland. So my question is are there spurs from any other brand that i can use? Local shops stock traxxas, hpi, xray, tamiya.
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Old 08-11-2013, 03:57 PM   #3068
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Originally Posted by Loomisfin View Post
Hello everybody. Wow this is a long tread, i'm somewhere around page 50

So i bought a Turnigy td10 from hobbyking witch is from what i understand exactly the same as SZS. My first build and first touring car and it has been really fun. don't know about speed but really easy to drive. just tweaked the suspencion a little.

But then DISASTER i stripped my spur gear and it takes a long time to get the parts to Finland. So my question is are there spurs from any other brand that i can use? Local shops stock traxxas, hpi, xray, tamiya.
Just take it to your local hobby shop and try match it up. All the main manufacturers make something that will fit, make sure it's got 4 mounting holes not 3 and your sweet.
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Old 08-11-2013, 07:26 PM   #3069
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Originally Posted by Loomisfin View Post
Hello everybody. Wow this is a long tread, i'm somewhere around page 50

So i bought a Turnigy td10 from hobbyking witch is from what i understand exactly the same as SZS. My first build and first touring car and it has been really fun. don't know about speed but really easy to drive. just tweaked the suspencion a little.

But then DISASTER i stripped my spur gear and it takes a long time to get the parts to Finland. So my question is are there spurs from any other brand that i can use? Local shops stock traxxas, hpi, xray, tamiya.
Crc and Robinson gears work.
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Old 08-11-2013, 08:18 PM   #3070
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So i tried a ball diff in the rear and have to admit i love it, no more fluid all over the rear of my car anymore, its super smooth, i also installed the 7075 alloy drive shafts in the back plus a narrow chassis so basically its a full zero with xi rear tower now
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Old 08-11-2013, 08:42 PM   #3071
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So i tried a ball diff in the rear and have to admit i love it, no more fluid all over the rear of my car anymore, its super smooth, i also installed the 7075 alloy drive shafts in the back plus a narrow chassis so basically its a full zero with xi rear tower now
Where did you purchase a ball diff from?
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Old 08-11-2013, 09:32 PM   #3072
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Thanks for the info guys, would the "RW Racing Supa-Lite spur gear 48P" fit? ww.racingfactory.fi/tuotteet/RC-AUTO-VARAOSAT-PINJONIT-JA-ISORATTAAT/RW-Racing-Supa-Lite-spur-gear-48P-101707
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Old 08-11-2013, 10:08 PM   #3073
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I tried a 64p RW racing spur and it didn't work. Don't know about their other spurs though.

Installing the XI motor mount V2 right now, not too comfortable with the material left after cutting the root hole, I'll post pics later.

Also got the alum servo mounts and am now realizing it will require some shimming to fit right.
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Old 08-11-2013, 11:15 PM   #3074
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I tried a 64p RW racing spur and it didn't work. Don't know about their other spurs though.

Installing the XI motor mount V2 right now, not too comfortable with the material left after cutting the root hole, I'll post pics later.

Also got the alum servo mounts and am now realizing it will require some shimming to fit right.
I bought those mounts too. Didn't fit my servo well so I chucked them and used original ones.

See you Saturday..

TTS
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Old 08-12-2013, 08:22 PM   #3075
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Where did you purchase a ball diff from?
Direct from 3racing i actually used there ball diff kit for the 416 it was a little tight and i had to file away some material where the bearing sits, you can buy the ball diff parts for a zero but you have to buy them individually which didn't bother me but they didn't have one of the parts to complete it
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