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Old 07-29-2013, 07:38 AM   #3001
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Originally Posted by kanamin View Post
Hey man it's the driver of the other Zero S in that race :P (may have been more, but you know who it is, it was both our zeros' inaugural race). It's alright you had no brakes, and it was your first race. Those "novices" have been racing all season (or at least for a month now, I keep seeing the same names on the driver standings reports).

More relevant to the thread, I was thinking instead of getting a vertical motor mount, to get to the hidden screw on the stock motor mount could I just dremel a 2mm hex key shorter (make the short side of the L shorter) and just squeeze that in through either the bottom hole or dremel off some of the top deck? It could just be for tightening, and one could adjust mesh with the other screw first. I think the whole diff/belt reversal will still need to happen to make access to that screw easier, but it seems doable in concept. Has anyone tried this?
Hey K! I had a lot of fun sat night even though I came in last. I've already got another esc in the car and it works great I have to adjust my belts and maybe rebuild shocks and ill be ready. See you next sat.

TTS
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Old 07-29-2013, 07:40 AM   #3002
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Originally Posted by clp.eng View Post
So I guess this thread is for racers only. Too bad you guys won't share w/ the rest of us since you all have so much good info.

Chuck
Sorry for not making you the center of my universe, princess

We're mostly just hobbyists in here, not psychics, so when you ask for help you have to provide as much relevant information as possible. Are you going to drive in nside or outside, on carpet or asphalt, on a small and technical track or large and open one, or are you just going bashing on the parking lot?

Also, it is a good idea to check if someone already asked the same question before. Spending 5 seconds in google (9T fdr sakura) tells me that someone already asked the same thing before, in this very thread, and got an answer: http://www.rctech.net/forum/9607114-post619.html

Good luck, and enjoy your Zero S, it's a great car
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Old 07-29-2013, 07:48 AM   #3003
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Originally Posted by clp.eng View Post
Hello all.


I just mounted the motor (HobbyWing 9T) & am trying to decide what pinion to use. I've been reading about the FDR but not sure how to relate the gear chart to motor turns or kV. The chart shows pinions from 33 to 18 for the 80T spur gear. The FDR ranges from 8.44 to 4.61.

Any hints on how to choose or directions to where I can read up on it? Thanks.

Chuck
Hi!
I run the same motor with the Hobbywing 35a esc, my actual fdr is 6.15. I changed the pulley to 19 teeth so i get an idr of 2.
My gears are 48p with 26 pinion and the stock 80t pulley.
This is a starting point with this motor, then it depends on the track you're running on. Mine is a quite fast 1/8 asphalt track and most racers have 5.5t engines with 120a esc (my future upgrades). Plan to buy a few pinions to set your gear correctly. I bought 24.25.26.27.28 pinions.
Hope this helps
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Old 07-29-2013, 08:08 AM   #3004
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If the shocks are only leaking from the top cap then these will stop them leaking. http://www.rcmart.com/tamiya-53576-d...?cPath=389_690

The top seals that come with the kit are rubbish and will leak no matter what you do to them (even the all alloy shocks do the same), replace them with the Tamiya seals and the shocks will work great, I rarely have to refill mine.

Cheers
Rob.
Forgot to add that if you cant get the above seals in time for your next race, you could try a procedure that is used on gear diffs to stop the oil leaking out.
Preferably get yourself some anti wear grease, or a grease that's safe to use on rubber and coat the shocks top seal in grease then screw on the top cap.
The grease will help to form a seal, and if any grease is squeezed out just wipe the excess clean.
This could also be done to the small o ring seal in the shock as well.

Cheers
Rob.
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Old 07-29-2013, 10:56 AM   #3005
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Originally Posted by clp.eng View Post
So I guess this thread is for racers only. Too bad you guys won't share w/ the rest of us since you all have so much good info.

Chuck
have you got past page 12 in the thread yet?

the comment that no ones shares is just not true. i havent been here in this thread long and have found all of my answers by reading thru the past posts and some by being answered by others.

being a newbie, i cant suggest you follow my sugguestions.

from what ive read fdr should be between low 3 to 6 or 7. i think it depends on the gears you have and the motor you use. higher turn motors need lower fdr so lower turn motors need higher fdr. however, fdr will depend on track size and type. like short track with lots of turns or long track with lots of room for more top speed.

with a 9 turn motor, i think you should start about a 4-5 fdr and go from there. you will have to check you motor and esc for proper temps to determine if you are under or over gearing and try different pinion/spur combos to get what you will need for your specific racing needs. I dont think any suggested fdr is good for any specific motor as track conditions and many other factors come into play to determine fdr.

i am sure someone else with more experience will chime in and let you know more in detail about what i am trying to say in my limited expereince.

TTS
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Old 07-29-2013, 12:51 PM   #3006
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Would anybody be willing to trade some parts? I need 2 aluminum bulkhead cover sets and I have an aluminum steering rack and an aluminum spur gear adapter sitting here that I dont need. I also need 2 pink belt tensioners. Let me know what you have. I am willing to pay cash as well. I hate waiting for it to ship from China.
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Old 07-29-2013, 03:23 PM   #3007
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Originally Posted by clp.eng View Post
So I guess this thread is for racers only. Too bad you guys won't share w/ the rest of us since you all have so much good info.

Chuck
Would love to share with you but I run 17.5, 21.5, and 25.5 in this car. I have absolutely no idea about gearing a 9t motor. Never wanted to go that fast. now if you have handling issues or questions about upgrades then I'm all in.I try to check this thread daily.

Still don't know why peoples shocks are leaking. went a whole year on the stock bladder before I did a full rebuild and the new replacement ones work fine. How much rebound are you guys building into the shock? I build mine with zero rebound and never had a problem leaking.
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Old 07-29-2013, 05:21 PM   #3008
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I haven't had problems with leaky shocks, but there's a cheap fix if the shock is leaking at the top. Put a 10mm shim (3RAC-SW10) between the rubber bladder and the shock cap. This will put a little extra squeeze on the rubber.
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Old 07-29-2013, 06:05 PM   #3009
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Sounds like a good idea..I think I have some of those...thanks
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Old 07-29-2013, 06:11 PM   #3010
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Originally Posted by 6376vette View Post
Would love to share with you but I run 17.5, 21.5, and 25.5 in this car. I have absolutely no idea about gearing a 9t motor. Never wanted to go that fast. now if you have handling issues or questions about upgrades then I'm all in.I try to check this thread daily.

Still don't know why peoples shocks are leaking. went a whole year on the stock bladder before I did a full rebuild and the new replacement ones work fine. How much rebound are you guys building into the shock? I build mine with zero rebound and never had a problem leaking.
So building the shocks with no rebound means that you can push arm in and it doesn't come back out at all? To build the shocks this way, I would guess you put in less shock oil then manual suggests? And you use the springs to get rebound..

I am running on asphalt with a pretty technical course with only one long straight...which springs might benefit me?

Thanks

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Old 07-29-2013, 07:10 PM   #3011
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Last edited by ttsquirrel; 07-29-2013 at 07:12 PM. Reason: double post
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Old 07-29-2013, 07:46 PM   #3012
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Originally Posted by ttsquirrel View Post
So building the shocks with no rebound means that you can push arm in and it doesn't come back out at all? To build the shocks this way, I would guess you put in less shock oil then manual suggests? And you use the springs to get rebound..

I am running on asphalt with a pretty technical course with only one long straight...which springs might benefit me?

Thanks

TTS
You are correct. push the arm in and it stays in. You want enough fluid in the shock so you don't have any air but not so much to create pressure when the shock moves. your springs are meant to provide the rebound to push the tires back down to the ground. the fluid is there to dampen the compression and extension of the shock shaft. the fluid shouldn't provide any rebound of its own. only damping.

I have found that the sakura likes a soft rear end with a stiffer front. try the 6.0 in the rear with the 5.5 or 5.25 in the front to start if you are running 17.5. Don't be afraid to go 6.5 in the rear to really soften things up. if you are running 25.5 vta I would go with the 6.5 rear and a 5.75 or 6.0 in the front. 21.5 would be somewhere in the middle. I would start with a 40 wt oil on the 3 hole piston for summer running. maybe a 30 wt oil in the cooler temps. if it seems like the suspension is moving too fast and bottoming out then try the 2 hole piston with the 40wt. of course the individual track conditions will have a lot to do with shock oil and spring choice but this should get you close.
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Old 07-30-2013, 08:35 PM   #3013
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You are correct. push the arm in and it stays in. You want enough fluid in the shock so you don't have any air but not so much to create pressure when the shock moves. your springs are meant to provide the rebound to push the tires back down to the ground. the fluid is there to dampen the compression and extension of the shock shaft. the fluid shouldn't provide any rebound of its own. only damping.

I have found that the sakura likes a soft rear end with a stiffer front. try the 6.0 in the rear with the 5.5 or 5.25 in the front to start if you are running 17.5. Don't be afraid to go 6.5 in the rear to really soften things up. if you are running 25.5 vta I would go with the 6.5 rear and a 5.75 or 6.0 in the front. 21.5 would be somewhere in the middle. I would start with a 40 wt oil on the 3 hole piston for summer running. maybe a 30 wt oil in the cooler temps. if it seems like the suspension is moving too fast and bottoming out then try the 2 hole piston with the 40wt. of course the individual track conditions will have a lot to do with shock oil and spring choice but this should get you close.
great information and makes perfect sense. otherwise, how would you know what different springs do if you have rebound affecting what the springs are supposed to do?

thanks vette. just guessing but if you have a 63 and 76 corvette, those years are definitely some of the best looking vettes in its history.

as far as the springs go, what brand is the best for the zero?

TTS
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Old 07-30-2013, 10:23 PM   #3014
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Originally Posted by ttsquirrel View Post
as far as the springs go, what brand is the best for the zero?

TTS
Can't go wrong with this pack of springs, designed to work with the shorter shocks that come with the Zero, Zero S, XI, and XI Sports cars.
9 different spring rates and a very good price.

Cheers
Rob.
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Old 07-30-2013, 11:00 PM   #3015
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Can't go wrong with this pack of springs, designed to work with the shorter shocks that come with the Zero, Zero S, XI, and XI Sports cars.
9 different spring rates and a very good price.

Cheers
Rob.
rob is there a pic or part number for this?

TTS
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