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Old 06-19-2013, 08:56 AM   #2896
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Originally Posted by ttsquirrel View Post
ok here is another question. the kit comes with 48P gears right. why does the gearing chart show 64P and why would people change.

soory complete noobie here to on road cars

thanks

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Racers often switch to 64 pitch gears as it provides for finer tuning. The down side is that the teeth are finer and can be more susceptible to stripping or damage from tiny rocks and pebbles when running outdoors.
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Old 06-19-2013, 03:23 PM   #2897
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hello again all,

I am about page 35 now out of 194. now i have even more questions!!!

im trying to figure out all the FDR numbers and am confused. everyone seems to be running different FDR's and i understand that it is because of different motors. i still cant get my head around it. FDR's are being run between 4.0 and 8.0. I am assuming the higher the FDR, the lower the turn on the motor. is that correct?

w wanted to use the stock gearing and 21T motor but read that i couldn't get the right size pinion on motor because there is not enough room to get the fdr to a 4.1 which is what i should be running right? so i would have to get the 76T spur and put on a 35 pinion. with a 21T motor is a 4.1 FDR good? what happens when the FDR goes higher with this setup? slower acceleration?

than after the 21T motor, i plan on putting a 17.5T motor to advance to the next class. what is the proper FDR for that motor?

soo confusing.. does anyone have a site where this is explained and what the FDR numbers will do as far and top speed and acceleration?

thanks

TTS
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Old 06-19-2013, 04:04 PM   #2898
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Hey guys! I see a lot of people changing the rear to look like a tamiya and moving the rear shock tower forward over the bulkhead. I want to do the same and just want to make sure that I'm ordering the right parts to do this since it will take a while to order the parts and return any wrong part.

So basically all I need to do this is the front bulkhead cover and the xi rear shock tower correct? Or should I use the tamiya 416 tower? Is there anything else I would need? And if I get the xi rear shock tower, should I get the +4mm tower or get the stock one if I'm running the zero s aluminum shocks?

Thanks a ton guys!
Kyle
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Last edited by brothainchrist0; 06-19-2013 at 05:02 PM.
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Old 06-19-2013, 05:38 PM   #2899
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the manual says the hex adaptors are 5mm but from what ive read here, everyone is saying the 4mm adaptors are the ones to get.

tqracing has both sizes. which do i get?

thanks for puttin gup with all my questions

TTS
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Old 06-19-2013, 06:39 PM   #2900
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ok question?
I hAVE a 3.5t xerun v2 combo.
I used to run a cc sv2 6900kv with a 63t spur 36t pin. 48p for speed runs on 2s got (69mph max)
so let me get this right, with the 3.5t I cant run that gearing obviously( but I did). but after I dumb it down on gearing lets say stock which is 80/20t pin. (sakura zero s) I should see better speeds being that this is supposed to be a "faster/ hot" motor right?
because when I ran it on the same gearing it was slower than my castle combo.
any input please..
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Old 06-19-2013, 07:04 PM   #2901
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Originally Posted by ttsquirrel View Post
the manual says the hex adaptors are 5mm but from what ive read here, everyone is saying the 4mm adaptors are the ones to get.

tqracing has both sizes. which do i get?

thanks for puttin gup with all my questions

TTS
Depends. the s model has an uneven width front and rear. to even it out go 4 mm rear and 5 mm front. honestly though 5 mm front and rear would work just fine. 4 mm makes the car too thin. wider is more stable.
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Old 06-19-2013, 08:07 PM   #2902
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Originally Posted by ttsquirrel View Post
hello again all,

I am about page 35 now out of 194. now i have even more questions!!!

im trying to figure out all the FDR numbers and am confused. everyone seems to be running different FDR's and i understand that it is because of different motors. i still cant get my head around it. FDR's are being run between 4.0 and 8.0. I am assuming the higher the FDR, the lower the turn on the motor. is that correct?

w wanted to use the stock gearing and 21T motor but read that i couldn't get the right size pinion on motor because there is not enough room to get the fdr to a 4.1 which is what i should be running right? so i would have to get the 76T spur and put on a 35 pinion. with a 21T motor is a 4.1 FDR good? what happens when the FDR goes higher with this setup? slower acceleration?

than after the 21T motor, i plan on putting a 17.5T motor to advance to the next class. what is the proper FDR for that motor?

soo confusing.. does anyone have a site where this is explained and what the FDR numbers will do as far and top speed and acceleration?

thanks

TTS
For a 21.5T motor a FDR around 3.5 is better to start with and then either lower or raise it from there.
Yes you are correct - a higher FDR is for lower wind motors and lower FDR's are for motors with more winds on them.

With a 21.5T motor a higher FDR will give the car better acceleration but will have lower top end speed, where as a lower FDR will have less acceleration but you will gain more top end speed.
Now here's the tricky part, with motors they have an ideal gearing ratio (or butter zone as it's sometimes called) and while it's around the same for all types of a particular wind there will be some differences between brands and models of a particular wind.
To lower the risk of over gearing your motor and burning it up by using a FDR too low for the motor start high and slowly work your way down with FDR settings. For example with a 21.5T motor start with 3.8 and work your way down to 3.2 - 3.1, and when doing this monitor the temperature on your motor every 1-2 minutes when you drive the car.

To do this on the Zero S you may need the optional "Vertical Motor Mount", which will allow you to use smaller spur gears that higher turn motors need to get the lower FDR's. With this motor mount you must flip your belts over ie short belt to the left side of the car and long belt on the right side.
With one of my 21.5T motors I use a FDR of 3.4 and use a 61 tooth & 34 tooth pinion to get that ratio.

Hope this helps.

Cheers
Rob
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Old 06-20-2013, 12:18 PM   #2903
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ok! thanks for all that info.

Am I correct the it will not matter which combination of spur/pinion I use as long as I get the FDR that I want and the gears fit in the car?

Thanks to all who have answered my noob questions!!

TTS
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Old 06-20-2013, 12:30 PM   #2904
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Originally Posted by ttsquirrel View Post
ok! thanks for all that info.

Am I correct the it will not matter which combination of spur/pinion I use as long as I get the FDR that I want and the gears fit in the car?

Thanks to all who have answered my noob questions!!

TTS
That is correct.
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Old 06-22-2013, 02:55 PM   #2905
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Does anybody have a ball diff they aren't using for the zero s?
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Old 06-22-2013, 03:11 PM   #2906
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Does anybody have a ball diff they aren't using for the zero s?
FYI I haven't seen a ball diff kit from 3 racing. You have to buy the individual parts and put it together. Cost me about $50 to build one new but it was definitely worth every penny.
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Old 06-22-2013, 03:20 PM   #2907
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Originally Posted by thor.caster View Post
Hello . I have pict of my friend Zero S.

He modify his car for Counter steer drift.

And steering system look very cool. Because he modify with OTA R31 part.

For more steering angle . Look better than stock steering crank.
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FYI I haven't seen a ball diff kit from 3 racing. You have to buy the individual parts and put it together. Cost me about $50 to build one new but it was definitely worth every penny.


And u have the ball diff in the rear right? Gear diff in the front still?
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Old 06-22-2013, 03:39 PM   #2908
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And u have the ball diff in the rear right? Gear diff in the front still?
Ball diff rear spool (solid axle) in the front. no gear diffs.
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Old 06-22-2013, 05:15 PM   #2909
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Ooh! Not for my track. Have to run gear diff in the front cause I need some braking power up there as well as some 8th scale style power coming out of the turn while under power
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Old 06-22-2013, 05:35 PM   #2910
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Ooh! Not for my track. Have to run gear diff in the front cause I need some braking power up there as well as some 8th scale style power coming out of the turn while under power
Your thinking of the one way. You don't lose braking with a spool and it lays down plenty of pulling power. only sacrifice is a small bit of initial turn in that can be easily fixed with toe adjustments. plus its less spun weight in the drivetrain so things get up to rpm faster. a one way won't brake the front and makes the rear loose under braking but it is supposed to be really smooth in turns.
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