danny325is

iTrader: (1)

Just an FYI:

For you guys with tight belts, it is easy to forget, but you can loosen them by rotating the eccentric bearing holders.

Sakuraszero

Zeros now a drifter lol solid axle on the rear, oneway at the front and some drift tyres good fun now just go to do some tuning

indybobb

Hello guys, after reading the thread I decided to get this car. The quality and value of the kit is so great that I could not pass up. This will be my first try at on road so I need some gearing help.

Locally there is only a 10.5 class right now, so can someone point me in the right direction on gearing with the stock pulleys,,, thanks (I have vertical motor mount). I know some of the guys running sometimes run a 13.5 in the class, so gearing for that would be helpful also.

zenitram

iTrader: (7)

If you havent bought the car car you might want to wait for the sakura XI sport to come out next month. It is going to be 128 usd.

indybobb

Thanks Zenitran, I already bought the car two weeks ago. I don't mind the next version out, I just want to get my feet wet with on road to see if it is something I will want to keep doing (I've raced off-road for 15 years). So I will start with this car and upgrade or if I get serious, maybe get another car later on. Just have absolutely no idea on how to gear this cars ;-)

zenitram

iTrader: (7)

I know for 17.5 you want to start at an FDR around 4. I am pretty sure that 13.5 will be close to that as well. For 10.5 someone will have to help you out. You can go here and select sakura zero s or enter in 1.9 for internal ratio, then enter your spur as 80 (if you are using the stock spur) and then i believe 38 for pinion size. It has also been sugested that you use 64 pitch gears for better fine tuning. This should get you started.
http://www.tqrcracing.com/rc_tools/gearing.asp

indybobb

Awesome thank you,,, Will keep this info handy in case I use 13.5, which might be a good idea for my first couple of runs

Can anyone suggest FDR for 10.5??

SuspiciousLlama

Hey guys. I just finished building my Sakura Zero S (first car i've built) but when I took it out, I realized I must have done something wrong. If I pull the throttle maybe 15-25% and have the car turned at all it just spins out. If I turn it all the way to the right or left and just hold the throttle 25% it just does neat concentric circles. I can't get the car to even go down the track straight. I had an easier time driving my Sprint 2 around the track.

Now, I noticed when I built the car and followed the instructions, the belts are incredibly tight. Is that what might be causing this or is it a diff problem? I've never run a car with a locked diff so I'm not sure if that is how this is behaving.

Oh, and for electronics I'm just running a turnigy 10.5 turn on a 2S lipo.

Troy Carter

iTrader: (22)

10.5 boosted or blinky?

6376vette

Yes the belts are too tight out of the box but I doubt this is your problem. I'm assuming that the locked diff is in the front??? Next question is have you had the car on a set up board? If not this could be your problem. have hog ever driven a 10.5 before? If not this could be the cause of your problem. a 10.5 takes throttle control to keep things going straight. What tires are you using and what is the racing surface?

There are a ton of things that can cause your problem. if you're new to tuning I would suggest stepping down to at least a 17.5 to start out. if not then turn the speed control down so only 50% of the power is available until you get used to your new chassis.

SuspiciousLlama

I had my sprint 2 with a 3500kv Velineon which was supposedly a 10.5. The diffs feel stiffer than the other cars i've had so I'm wondering if thats the problem. How would I go about turning the ESC down to 50%? I have a program card, but it only has something called Punch Control and then Motor timing.

As for tires, I had a pair of slicks (not sure what brand or compound as they were given to me) and I also tried out a set of Sprint RTR rubber as well. I was running on a concrete track.

It could be that the 10.5 is very powerful, but it seems that this spins way too easily before any real power is given. Like I said, when I had my sprint 2 with a 3S lipo and the Velineon system, I could get that going extremely fast, it just couldn't corner or slow down very well. Any sort of throttle on a turn, and my Sakura just spins out. I haven't used a Setup board either.


EDIT: I took apart the difs and made sure nothing was binding, put them back together and they're still pretty stiff on the car. I took it back out to see if it was just a throttle control issue, but the car is basically undriveable. Under any kind of acceleration (i'm talking even 15% throttle the thing starts spinning). I can't even get this thing to go in a straight line. Are the diffs supposed to be this hard to turn out of the box?

indybobb

Both boosted.

ta04evah

iTrader: (2)

The oil that is supplied in the kit for the diffs is way too heavy for the rear diff. It's fine for the front diff but in the rear it will make the car spin out easily.
Get some 500-700 weight shock oil and use that in the rear diff, it will allow the rear diff to spin freely rather than being hard to turn.
(If you cant get some, use the thinner oil that came with the kit for the shocks.)
If the rear diff is very hard to turn it's almost like having a solid axle in the rear which is what the drift guys do, but not something you want.

When building the diff with very light oil make sure you use plenty of grease on the seals, especially the 2 O ring seals. Also coat the center seal fully with grease and the areas in the diff where the seals sit.
This will help to seal the oil in and lubricate the seals on the out drives, and act as a seal under the heads of the diff screws as you tighten them.

Also make sure you sand the diff housing with the screw holes flat, as that will help to seal the 2 halves together without having to over tighten the screws that hold the diff together.

Lastly, if you're using the servo saver that came with the kit - ditch it. The kit one is rubbish and try to get a better one, the Tamiya high torque ones work rather well.

Cheers
Rob.

indybobb

Finished my body for the Zero S, hoping to get it to the track this weekend hopefully. First race will be on the 14th. Hope you guys like it.

mbreitba

Just wondered if anyone seen this before – under heavy acceleration from a dead stop, I get a squealing sound out of my Sakura. It’s only for a second, and as soon as I get some momentum, it goes away.

I bought the car used and fully assembled, and it was apparently raced for an entire season before I got it. Any thoughts?