ta04evah

iTrader: (2)

ESC, basically a re branded version of the solid & reliable Hobbywing ver 2.1 esc
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...nsorless_.html

Motor, as stated above, very inexpensive and give the same performance as the big $$ brands http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...or_3730KV.html

Program card, will allow you to change & adjust settings in the esc. Even though it says it's the "Turnigy" brand it will work with the above esc.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...hless_ESC.html

Cheers
Rob.

Eddscott

iTrader: (1)

Need some help with parts finding.

I wrecked last night over the line (to win although I was the only one trying ) and managed to rip the front A arm out the plastic mount. I split the mount in two and the mount screw also ripped out the chassis. So I need a new front mount and a new chassis. I could glue it but I'd rather get a new one.

What I don't have is the little spacers between the mount and the arm. What parts bag do they come in? 3Racing have those little pink washers so I could use those but not sure what size they are. I meant to bring the manual into work to order the parts but forgot it.

Also, as I need to get new front mounts I'll get the alloy ones. Is there any point trying anything other than the 0 degree mounts? What difference would it make using the 5 deg on the front?

And finally, as I'm buying a new chassis is it worth changing to the narrow chassis? Will that make a big difference to the car? I would probably just get standard the FRP chassis rather than carbon as its cheaper and I can't see it making a massive difference to the car or my driving.

zenitram

iTrader: (7)

Here is the link to the manual. http://www.tqrcracing.com/forum/view...no=44&bbs_no=9 also the have all the parts there at tqrcracing.com and super fast shipping.

zenitram

iTrader: (7)

finished the build yesterday and got the electronics in it tonight, how ever i ordered a 64p pinion, i guess i was a little excited to get the stuff ordered. threw on a much smaller pinion then what i need to test and make sure everything was working alright. didnt care for the white rims so i dyed them with rit dye and mounted the stock tires to mess around with when i get the new pinions and spurs i ordered. also on the way is the aluminum spur adapter.

6376vette

for the spaces get an assortment of the washers. Get the 0.5, 1, 1.5, and 2 bags. you will find all sorts of uses for them. they are smoother and look better than the black ones. don't forget. these shims are used for wheel base adjustment. the wheel base can change the way the car handles. for the aluminium suspension mounts go with the 0 degree mounts for everything except the rear most block. this is your rear toe. Try a 2 or 3 back there. sounds like you may be kinda new to the tc chassis. don't play with suspension arm angles until you learn more. that's pretty Advanced tuning. I run 0 degrees but my son actually runs a 1 degree front rear block. the narrow chassis is a great upgrade but you will lose the battery strap with any of the carbon chassis. you will have to tape the battery in. if you are racing use the tape and go with the narrow chassis. you will like it.

jdeadman

iTrader: (41)

I like the colour. But the Wiring...... Here is a great thread for wiring jobs http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...tion-pics.html

6376vette

Yeah shorten up that wiring. not only does it make things look cleaner but it will increase performance. you may not notice it but shorter wires mean less resistance which equals more power to the motor. every tenth counts.

Metalsoft

iTrader: (76)

Slick...

Make sure to order the Pulley gears, and center shaft along with the Alum. Spur gear adapter.

redbarton

iTrader: (3)

Hey zenitram, I like the orange dye on the wheels. It looks good! Too bad they will bust the first time you hit something, though. The plastic 3Racing uses is uber brittle and shatters easily.

P.S. Where did the handle zenitram come from? The paintball world by chance?

zenitram

iTrader: (7)

Yeah shorter wires are next! I just wanted to make sure it was all working first. As for the rims, they are just for looks, as we run a spec tire for racing. And zenitram is my last name backwards. I was using this name long before the paintball company lol

Sakuraszero

Finally took the s to the track was good fun still got to make a few adjustments though

sonspit

I was running my s with the sv2 6900 combo but the esc was getting way too hot so I soldered on some castle 5.5 mm connectors to both the castle motor along with my xerun 120a esc.. and figured i'd probably be better off with them paired together. after soldering and putting everything 2gether I did a test run... the motor, esc and wires got extremely hot very quickly and t did nothing but cogging so initially I figured I had bad solder joints so I went back and resoldered everything perfectly. 2nd test ( no load) smooth, cool to the touch, everything seemed fine until I put it on the ground and then again the cogging started and everything got very very hot! im lost...
any input please!

Metalsoft

iTrader: (76)

Could be a number of things....The first off the top of my head is a bad battery.

A bad battery that can't supply voltage will make it Cog like that.

Second I would think the gearing is WAY WAY off, though I doubt it could be it considering you would have to have a extreme gear ratio setup to make this happen. ( exp. 60 spur and 40 pinion )

The third and what I think it is due to you using the same motor on different ESC's is the motor itself. If the motor is bad, you would have this same issue.

sonspit

I am running crazy gearing. 63t spur and 47t pinion.. But I swapped the motor to a lrp vector x12 3.0t sensored and it seems fine now. Someone else suggested that the esc couldn't handle that motor maybe since its 4pole

thefan

iTrader: (3)

3Racing release new cars Sakura XI Sport to take over from the Zero S, and a Sakura XI Ultimate, do you think they will continue to still sell zero parts or will they eventually fade out?