R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 05-01-2013, 06:22 AM   #2761
Tech Elite
 
ta04evah's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 2,521
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Vertico View Post
Hey guys, I am super new to RC Cars, I mainly fly CP Helis at a local club.
I picked up a Sakura Zero S and am trying figure out my electronics.

I will only be driving for fun and do not need a competitive setup.

Can anyone recommend a good inexpensive motor and ESC to use with the stock gearing?

Thanks
ESC, basically a re branded version of the solid & reliable Hobbywing ver 2.1 esc
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...nsorless_.html

Motor, as stated above, very inexpensive and give the same performance as the big $$ brands http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...or_3730KV.html

Program card, will allow you to change & adjust settings in the esc. Even though it says it's the "Turnigy" brand it will work with the above esc.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...hless_ESC.html

Cheers
Rob.
__________________
BSR BT-4 / Turnigy / Hobbywing / Savox / Trackstar
Serpent Eyrx2 & ARC R10, Hybrid / Orca /Hobbywing /Savox / ProAmps
Castle Hill Raceway https://www.facebook.com/groups/121817254587521/
ta04evah is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-02-2013, 04:32 AM   #2762
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 17
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Need some help with parts finding.

I wrecked last night over the line (to win although I was the only one trying ) and managed to rip the front A arm out the plastic mount. I split the mount in two and the mount screw also ripped out the chassis. So I need a new front mount and a new chassis. I could glue it but I'd rather get a new one.

What I don't have is the little spacers between the mount and the arm. What parts bag do they come in? 3Racing have those little pink washers so I could use those but not sure what size they are. I meant to bring the manual into work to order the parts but forgot it.

Also, as I need to get new front mounts I'll get the alloy ones. Is there any point trying anything other than the 0 degree mounts? What difference would it make using the 5 deg on the front?

And finally, as I'm buying a new chassis is it worth changing to the narrow chassis? Will that make a big difference to the car? I would probably just get standard the FRP chassis rather than carbon as its cheaper and I can't see it making a massive difference to the car or my driving.
Eddscott is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-02-2013, 04:41 AM   #2763
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: McGuire AFB, New Jersey
Posts: 259
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to zenitram Send a message via MSN to zenitram
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Eddscott View Post
Need some help with parts finding.

I wrecked last night over the line (to win although I was the only one trying ) and managed to rip the front A arm out the plastic mount. I split the mount in two and the mount screw also ripped out the chassis. So I need a new front mount and a new chassis. I could glue it but I'd rather get a new one.

What I don't have is the little spacers between the mount and the arm. What parts bag do they come in? 3Racing have those little pink washers so I could use those but not sure what size they are. I meant to bring the manual into work to order the parts but forgot it.

Also, as I need to get new front mounts I'll get the alloy ones. Is there any point trying anything other than the 0 degree mounts? What difference would it make using the 5 deg on the front?

And finally, as I'm buying a new chassis is it worth changing to the narrow chassis? Will that make a big difference to the car? I would probably just get standard the FRP chassis rather than carbon as its cheaper and I can't see it making a massive difference to the car or my driving.
Here is the link to the manual. http://www.tqrcracing.com/forum/view...no=44&bbs_no=9 also the have all the parts there at tqrcracing.com and super fast shipping.
__________________
AE b44.2
AE RC10T3
Traxxas Monster Energy Camero
zenitram is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-02-2013, 07:53 PM   #2764
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: McGuire AFB, New Jersey
Posts: 259
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to zenitram Send a message via MSN to zenitram
Default

finished the build yesterday and got the electronics in it tonight, how ever i ordered a 64p pinion, i guess i was a little excited to get the stuff ordered. threw on a much smaller pinion then what i need to test and make sure everything was working alright. didnt care for the white rims so i dyed them with rit dye and mounted the stock tires to mess around with when i get the new pinions and spurs i ordered. also on the way is the aluminum spur adapter.


__________________
AE b44.2
AE RC10T3
Traxxas Monster Energy Camero
zenitram is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-03-2013, 06:12 AM   #2765
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Northeast GA
Posts: 1,685
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Eddscott View Post
Need some help with parts finding.

I wrecked last night over the line (to win although I was the only one trying ) and managed to rip the front A arm out the plastic mount. I split the mount in two and the mount screw also ripped out the chassis. So I need a new front mount and a new chassis. I could glue it but I'd rather get a new one.

What I don't have is the little spacers between the mount and the arm. What parts bag do they come in? 3Racing have those little pink washers so I could use those but not sure what size they are. I meant to bring the manual into work to order the parts but forgot it.

Also, as I need to get new front mounts I'll get the alloy ones. Is there any point trying anything other than the 0 degree mounts? What difference would it make using the 5 deg on the front?

And finally, as I'm buying a new chassis is it worth changing to the narrow chassis? Will that make a big difference to the car? I would probably just get standard the FRP chassis rather than carbon as its cheaper and I can't see it making a massive difference to the car or my driving.
for the spaces get an assortment of the washers. Get the 0.5, 1, 1.5, and 2 bags. you will find all sorts of uses for them. they are smoother and look better than the black ones. don't forget. these shims are used for wheel base adjustment. the wheel base can change the way the car handles. for the aluminium suspension mounts go with the 0 degree mounts for everything except the rear most block. this is your rear toe. Try a 2 or 3 back there. sounds like you may be kinda new to the tc chassis. don't play with suspension arm angles until you learn more. that's pretty Advanced tuning. I run 0 degrees but my son actually runs a 1 degree front rear block. the narrow chassis is a great upgrade but you will lose the battery strap with any of the carbon chassis. you will have to tape the battery in. if you are racing use the tape and go with the narrow chassis. you will like it.
__________________
3Racing Sakura XI 17.5 TC
Formula Rabbit (FGX conversion) 21.5
STRC LCG 2WD Slash 17.5
Serpent S120 13.5
6376vette is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-03-2013, 06:12 AM   #2766
Tech Master
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Grand Portage, MN
Posts: 1,362
Trader Rating: 39 (100%+)
Default

I like the colour. But the Wiring...... Here is a great thread for wiring jobs Inspire us. Show me your BEST, CLEANEST electronics installation pics.
__________________
______________________________________________
Jason Deadman

I race toy cars for fun. If I need to explain, you'll never understand.
jdeadman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-03-2013, 06:15 AM   #2767
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Northeast GA
Posts: 1,685
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by jdeadman View Post
I like the colour. But the Wiring...... Here is a great thread for wiring jobs Inspire us. Show me your BEST, CLEANEST electronics installation pics.
Yeah shorten up that wiring. not only does it make things look cleaner but it will increase performance. you may not notice it but shorter wires mean less resistance which equals more power to the motor. every tenth counts.
__________________
3Racing Sakura XI 17.5 TC
Formula Rabbit (FGX conversion) 21.5
STRC LCG 2WD Slash 17.5
Serpent S120 13.5
6376vette is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-03-2013, 07:39 AM   #2768
Tech Master
 
Metalsoft's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Johnson City, TN
Posts: 1,838
Trader Rating: 68 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by zenitram View Post
finished the build yesterday and got the electronics in it tonight, how ever i ordered a 64p pinion, i guess i was a little excited to get the stuff ordered. threw on a much smaller pinion then what i need to test and make sure everything was working alright. didnt care for the white rims so i dyed them with rit dye and mounted the stock tires to mess around with when i get the new pinions and spurs i ordered. also on the way is the aluminum spur adapter.


Slick...

Make sure to order the Pulley gears, and center shaft along with the Alum. Spur gear adapter.
__________________
Tamiya TB03 NSX USGT - Trakstar 21.5 - Hitec - HW JS - Futaba - TRF

" Tamiya RC's have soul, the others are just plastic parts "
Metalsoft is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-03-2013, 10:54 AM   #2769
Tech Adept
 
redbarton's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 230
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Hey zenitram, I like the orange dye on the wheels. It looks good! Too bad they will bust the first time you hit something, though. The plastic 3Racing uses is uber brittle and shatters easily.

P.S. Where did the handle zenitram come from? The paintball world by chance?

Last edited by redbarton; 05-03-2013 at 10:56 AM. Reason: grammar
redbarton is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-03-2013, 11:00 AM   #2770
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: McGuire AFB, New Jersey
Posts: 259
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to zenitram Send a message via MSN to zenitram
Default

Yeah shorter wires are next! I just wanted to make sure it was all working first. As for the rims, they are just for looks, as we run a spec tire for racing. And zenitram is my last name backwards. I was using this name long before the paintball company lol
__________________
AE b44.2
AE RC10T3
Traxxas Monster Energy Camero
zenitram is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-03-2013, 05:09 PM   #2771
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 100
Default

Finally took the s to the track was good fun still got to make a few adjustments though
Attached Thumbnails
3Racing Sakura Zero S-946755_10201008910084251_1297895482_n.jpg  
Sakuraszero is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-03-2013, 10:40 PM   #2772
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 217
Default can anyone help me

I was running my s with the sv2 6900 combo but the esc was getting way too hot so I soldered on some castle 5.5 mm connectors to both the castle motor along with my xerun 120a esc.. and figured i'd probably be better off with them paired together. after soldering and putting everything 2gether I did a test run... the motor, esc and wires got extremely hot very quickly and t did nothing but cogging so initially I figured I had bad solder joints so I went back and resoldered everything perfectly. 2nd test ( no load) smooth, cool to the touch, everything seemed fine until I put it on the ground and then again the cogging started and everything got very very hot! im lost...
any input please!
sonspit is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-06-2013, 06:58 AM   #2773
Tech Master
 
Metalsoft's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Johnson City, TN
Posts: 1,838
Trader Rating: 68 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by sonspit View Post
I was running my s with the sv2 6900 combo but the esc was getting way too hot so I soldered on some castle 5.5 mm connectors to both the castle motor along with my xerun 120a esc.. and figured i'd probably be better off with them paired together. after soldering and putting everything 2gether I did a test run... the motor, esc and wires got extremely hot very quickly and t did nothing but cogging so initially I figured I had bad solder joints so I went back and resoldered everything perfectly. 2nd test ( no load) smooth, cool to the touch, everything seemed fine until I put it on the ground and then again the cogging started and everything got very very hot! im lost...
any input please!
Could be a number of things....The first off the top of my head is a bad battery.

A bad battery that can't supply voltage will make it Cog like that.

Second I would think the gearing is WAY WAY off, though I doubt it could be it considering you would have to have a extreme gear ratio setup to make this happen. ( exp. 60 spur and 40 pinion )

The third and what I think it is due to you using the same motor on different ESC's is the motor itself. If the motor is bad, you would have this same issue.
__________________
Tamiya TB03 NSX USGT - Trakstar 21.5 - Hitec - HW JS - Futaba - TRF

" Tamiya RC's have soul, the others are just plastic parts "
Metalsoft is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-06-2013, 10:39 AM   #2774
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 217
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Metalsoft View Post
Could be a number of things....The first off the top of my head is a bad battery.

A bad battery that can't supply voltage will make it Cog like that.

Second I would think the gearing is WAY WAY off, though I doubt it could be it considering you would have to have a extreme gear ratio setup to make this happen. ( exp. 60 spur and 40 pinion )

The third and what I think it is due to you using the same motor on different ESC's is the motor itself. If the motor is bad, you would have this same issue.
I am running crazy gearing. 63t spur and 47t pinion.. But I swapped the motor to a lrp vector x12 3.0t sensored and it seems fine now. Someone else suggested that the esc couldn't handle that motor maybe since its 4pole
sonspit is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-06-2013, 04:20 PM   #2775
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Australia
Posts: 246
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

3Racing release new cars Sakura XI Sport to take over from the Zero S, and a Sakura XI Ultimate, do you think they will continue to still sell zero parts or will they eventually fade out?
thefan is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Sakura Zero - New Touring Car! InZane Electric On-Road 1355 02-14-2014 05:14 PM
New to the RC scene...need some help! Jmoney12 Rookie Zone 13 06-15-2010 10:21 AM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 02:48 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0