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Old 04-16-2013, 05:44 PM   #2716
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Are the carbon fiber shock towers any lighter then the stock fiberglass ones?
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Old 04-17-2013, 02:02 AM   #2717
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You shouldn't need to make too many changes then. just some fine tuning. I am running blinky on a small size track. maybe 50x75 and we are all running somewhere around 4.0 FDR. one guy tried 3.5 up to 4.5 and only saw a tenth of a lap difference. motor temps stay cool around 120f with a single cooling fan and almost full to full timing. I run a d3.0 and my son runs a ballistic. We are using sweep 32 tires with a track temp around 75 degrees f. some guys run jaco blues with great results. I ran a set of jaco tires and loved the extra turn in. just trying to use up my sweep tires before I switch.
What do you think about running less endbell timing with a lower fdr vs more endbell timing and a higher fdr, from what i've read the less endbell timing produces less heat allowing more speed in the gearing, i also have a ballastic with the high rpm stator what endbell timing would you suggest
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Old 04-17-2013, 05:01 PM   #2718
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What do you think about running less endbell timing with a lower fdr vs more endbell timing and a higher fdr, from what i've read the less endbell timing produces less heat allowing more speed in the gearing, i also have a ballastic with the high rpm stator what endbell timing would you suggest
Most of our motors seem to run best about 5 degrees below full timing although the Novak likes full timing. I will usually start at 5 to 8 degrees below full timing and get a fdr that feels good for the track and gives me good temps then adjust the timing a little from there all the time watching temps. I know you can run motors around 160 without damaging them but I like to stay around 140 just in case the fan fails. I don't like wasting money on a motor just because I pushed it too hard. our track isn't too big and usually has a good balance between technical and speed so my motor temps rarely get above 120. I have tried both low timing with a low FDR and a high timing with a higher FDR. My opinion is that most motors need some timing to get the most out of them but each motor is different. Experiment a little and see what your motor seems to like.
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Old 04-18-2013, 01:21 AM   #2719
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how much tweek does your chassis have?
this last zero s im building seems to have a ton of tweek...really bad
i dont know how to get rid of it?
tryed to rescrew little... back to front...front to back?
how flat does your chassis sit?
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Old 04-18-2013, 10:34 AM   #2720
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how much tweek does your chassis have?
this last zero s im building seems to have a ton of tweek...really bad
i dont know how to get rid of it?
tryed to rescrew little... back to front...front to back?
how flat does your chassis sit?
Take the wheels and shocks off. Loosen all the top deck screws. Twist it until it sits flat on the setup board. If it's really bad you may also need to loosen the bulkhead and motor mount to lower deck screws. Tighten screws. Replace shocks and wheels and check all settings (ride height, droop, shock tension, etc.).
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Old 04-18-2013, 01:30 PM   #2721
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Just to let everyone know in case they did not, the EXOTEK or TAMIYA Carbon Fiber front bumper brace for the TB-03 - 416 fits the S perfectly...

Carry on.
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Old 04-18-2013, 06:33 PM   #2722
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It's kind weird tweak. It's like a u......tried removing /lose the screws . Might just up grade it. But wouldn't tweak the new chassis ?
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Old 04-19-2013, 03:12 PM   #2723
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Has anyone tried the 4 hole shock pistons, would it be useful for a bumpy track?
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Old 04-19-2013, 06:01 PM   #2724
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Has anyone tried the 4 hole shock pistons, would it be useful for a bumpy track?
Usually a bumpy track needs more dampening so four hole piston would probably not help.
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Old 04-20-2013, 06:02 PM   #2725
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what setups are you guys running as far as gearing? it has been years since in have been in the touring car scene and am thining about this model because of the cost, and tons of upgrade parts available. i will be running a tight indoor carpet track if that helps
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Old 04-20-2013, 11:08 PM   #2726
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zenitram im just a newbie (i run on a small carpet low traction 17.5 binky) and i run at 4.4 fdr 88spur 40 pinion im a lot slower but i hit less walls
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Old 04-21-2013, 07:01 AM   #2727
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what setups are you guys running as far as gearing? it has been years since in have been in the touring car scene and am thining about this model because of the cost, and tons of upgrade parts available. i will be running a tight indoor carpet track if that helps
For racing switch over to 64 pitch gears and start around a 4.0 FDR. I am currently running an 88 spur with a 44 or 43 tooth pinion but I have switched to the 19 tooth gears on the spur holder so my internal ratio is 2.0. For stock you have a 1.9 internal ratio so an 88 spur and a 42 pinion would give you a 3.98 FDR. watch your temps on the motor and adjust timing and gearing from there.
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Old 04-21-2013, 09:58 AM   #2728
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Originally Posted by zenitram View Post
what setups are you guys running as far as gearing? it has been years since in have been in the touring car scene and am thining about this model because of the cost, and tons of upgrade parts available. i will be running a tight indoor carpet track if that helps
What I run personally is the stock spur (80T) and a pionion (23T) for a 13.5T with blinky ESC.

This is for a tight carpet track with laps around 8.5 secs.

Motor comes off at 135 deg after 10 min main and around 60 laps.

Car is very quick, with a ton of speed and out of corner torque.


EDIT: while I am posting here is a pic of my new speed 6 body
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3Racing Sakura Zero S-img_20130421_242328_201.jpg   3Racing Sakura Zero S-img_20130421_242356_059.jpg  
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Old 04-22-2013, 09:12 PM   #2729
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im about to order the car and i have made it though about 20 pages of the thread and that got me to 2010 and noticed a lot of people with pinion/spur issues. now that it is 2013 did they fix this issue or do you still have to order the vertical motor mount, and top plate? or is there an easier route? for now i want to stick with the stock spur unless that is the easier route at this point. thanks in advance for the help
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Old 04-23-2013, 04:23 AM   #2730
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Originally Posted by zenitram View Post
im about to order the car and i have made it though about 20 pages of the thread and that got me to 2010 and noticed a lot of people with pinion/spur issues. now that it is 2013 did they fix this issue or do you still have to order the vertical motor mount, and top plate? or is there an easier route? for now i want to stick with the stock spur unless that is the easier route at this point. thanks in advance for the help
The stock Zero S kit is unchanged and access to the rear motor bolt is through the spur gear. If you want easier access, then you need the vertical motor mount which forces you to move the drive belts to the opposite side shown in the manual and you must modify the upper deck. This also impacts the stock battery tray guides as the belt now fouls on these and you must make some mods there as well. Not hard, but still a PITA.

Last edited by SteveM; 04-23-2013 at 07:19 AM.
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