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Old 04-07-2013, 11:28 PM   #2686
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Front cover is outer hole. there is only one hole on the front c hub so your kinda stuck with it.

It could be your problem. you have your front roll center pretty low with a 3 mm shim. pull the front shim and leave the rear and see now it handles. If it begins to push a little or the rear feels really slugging drop the rear shims down to 2 then to 1.5 then to 1 and see what you like best. a low roll center could also contribute to your traction roll. Sounds like the front is just biting in too hard. you could also try harder front springs and less rear droop to keep more weight on the rear under braking.
I will try this :-) thnx a lot. Learning much now.

What about belt tention rings? Do you run them up or down? Learned from the manual of my xray that this infact change traction too.
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Old 04-08-2013, 03:54 AM   #2687
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So i tried a spool on the weekend and found that the driveshafts chattered real bad at full lock so i put the diff back in and much better, how are you guys running spools?
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Old 04-08-2013, 04:18 AM   #2688
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So i tried a spool on the weekend and found that the driveshafts chattered real bad at full lock so i put the diff back in and much better, how are you guys running spools?
The stock CVD's always cause vibration and chatter at full lock and this isn't just with the Sakura. The solution is to use the articulated CVD set.
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Old 04-08-2013, 12:12 PM   #2689
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Any tips in changing to the narrow chassis. What narrow chassis should I change to for carpet
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Old 04-08-2013, 12:51 PM   #2690
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Any tips in changing to the narrow chassis. What narrow chassis should I change to for carpet
Narrow chassis just allows for more chassis roll without rubbing the ground. Everything just moves over, the only other changes required are relaged to battery mounting. You pretty much have to go to tape with the narrow chassis. Everything else is the same, all the screw holes are in the same locations, turn the chassis over, remove all the screws, drop the new chassis in place and replace all the screws. You can probably swap over in an hour or so.
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Old 04-08-2013, 03:22 PM   #2691
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I will try this :-) thnx a lot. Learning much now.

What about belt tention rings? Do you run them up or down? Learned from the manual of my xray that this infact change traction too.
I have run them both ways and didn't feel a difference. Not saying it didn't make a difference I just couldn't tell on or track. my sons car the diff actually hit the cutout in the chassis when it was in the low position so we always run his high. I ran lower to clear the bottom of the ball stud and didn't have any chassis interference issues. if you go low just make sure things aren't rubbing.
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Old 04-08-2013, 03:25 PM   #2692
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So i tried a spool on the weekend and found that the driveshafts chattered real bad at full lock so i put the diff back in and much better, how are you guys running spools?
With the chatter. Be sure to switch to the heavy duty outdrives with a spool. the plastic ones will crack under the pressure. you will see wear happening on the ourselves cups but you probably will be able to run 6 months before you need to replace the outdrives.
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Old 04-08-2013, 08:24 PM   #2693
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With the chatter. Be sure to switch to the heavy duty outdrives with a spool. the plastic ones will crack under the pressure. you will see wear happening on the ourselves cups but you probably will be able to run 6 months before you need to replace the outdrives.
Thanks i did get the hd outdrives, i also had the cvd pins come loose too, i think ill stick with the diff. regarding diffs the rear one always leaks even after rebuilding as 3 racing showed
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Old 04-08-2013, 08:58 PM   #2694
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Thanks i did get the hd outdrives, i also had the cvd pins come loose too, i think ill stick with the diff. regarding diffs the rear one always leaks even after rebuilding as 3 racing showed
The leaking is why I went to a spool in the front and a ball diff on the rear. Been running the spool for almost 2 years and the ball diff for six months. try the spool again. I personally think it helps a great deal with corner exit and acceleration. the gear diff just feels sluggish.if you're stuck on using the gear diff don't over tighten the four screws. once you warp the plate its done. gasket sealer may help too.
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Old 04-08-2013, 09:02 PM   #2695
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I just started building my car today and noticed two things...

1. After tightening the Gear Differentials down, one seems harder to turn (when turning the "Differential Out Joint" - pg. 1 of the manual). Are these suppose to be pretty hard/tight to turn or are they suppose to move more freely? If I loosen all 4 screws they turn easily but then oil starts coming out so I'm guessing the screws are suppose to be tight.

2. (See Pic Below...) Anyone notice that the bottom ring of the Pulley snaps off kinda easily? When I was tightening down each half, they both cracked a little and I thought I broke it. I think I did but there is no break in the plastic. It's the end on the "Gear Differential Housing" that comes off. It can go back together but it needs to be glued as it will come off again. Just weird. Here's a pic of what I'm talking about...
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3Racing Sakura Zero S-pulley-gear-differential.jpg  

Last edited by Nickerz; 04-08-2013 at 09:13 PM.
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Old 04-09-2013, 03:55 AM   #2696
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So i tried a spool on the weekend and found that the driveshafts chattered real bad at full lock so i put the diff back in and much better, how are you guys running spools?
I did try with a spool, but lost so much steering i went back to the geardiff. I now run it built after 3racings guide and with 500.000 oil. Works good, and a lot better then with the original 2000 oil.
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Old 04-09-2013, 04:56 PM   #2697
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I just started building my car today and noticed two things...

1. After tightening the Gear Differentials down, one seems harder to turn (when turning the "Differential Out Joint" - pg. 1 of the manual). Are these suppose to be pretty hard/tight to turn or are they suppose to move more freely? If I loosen all 4 screws they turn easily but then oil starts coming out so I'm guessing the screws are suppose to be tight.

2. (See Pic Below...) Anyone notice that the bottom ring of the Pulley snaps off kinda easily? When I was tightening down each half, they both cracked a little and I thought I broke it. I think I did but there is no break in the plastic. It's the end on the "Gear Differential Housing" that comes off. It can go back together but it needs to be glued as it will come off again. Just weird. Here's a pic of what I'm talking about...
Sounds like you overtightened the screws. now that it leaks when you back off of the screws you may need gasket sealer to stop the leak. that plate is not supposed to come off but it looks like a clean joint. try to glue it back on.
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Old 04-09-2013, 05:27 PM   #2698
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Sounds like you overtightened the screws. now that it leaks when you back off of the screws you may need gasket sealer to stop the leak. that plate is not supposed to come off but it looks like a clean joint. try to glue it back on.

True, if I back out the screws slightly then I can move the Diff Outer Joints much more easily but one of them is leaking very badly. So how freely should the Diff Outer Joints move?

I simply tried making the screws flush with the Pulley...I guess this was even too much as I was trying to be careful not to over tighten them. I'll see if it leaks now that I backed out the screws a little.

Also, I was told that the front Diff Gear should move more easily than the rear, so I need to to put higher silicon oil in the front Diff Gear than the 2000 oil it came with. Is this true?

I'll glue the ring back which is what my LHS told me to do. Just weird that this happened. Thank you for your reply!

Once last thing. I was going to buy chassis protector sheet for the bottom of my chassis. This one is universal and fits the Zero S. Is it a good idea to put it on before or after I assemble the chassis?
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Old 04-09-2013, 07:33 PM   #2699
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True, if I back out the screws slightly then I can move the Diff Outer Joints much more easily but one of them is leaking very badly. So how freely should the Diff Outer Joints move?

I simply tried making the screws flush with the Pulley...I guess this was even too much as I was trying to be careful not to over tighten them. I'll see if it leaks now that I backed out the screws a little.

Also, I was told that the front Diff Gear should move more easily than the rear, so I need to to put higher silicon oil in the front Diff Gear than the 2000 oil it came with. Is this true?

I'll glue the ring back which is what my LHS told me to do. Just weird that this happened. Thank you for your reply!

Once last thing. I was going to buy chassis protector sheet for the bottom of my chassis. This one is universal and fits the Zero S. Is it a good idea to put it on before or after I assemble the chassis?
The diffs are identical so filled with the same weight fluid they should move the same. With the kit fluid the diff should be smooth and pretty easy to turn. don't overfill the diff though. just enough fluid to cover the center pins in the diff. most set ups people use will have a very thick fluid in the front (500,000) and a thin one in the rear (1000( I used 80wt shock oil)) so the front would be harder to turn than the rear. this will help the car accelerate out of the corners better. I prefer a front spool but as others have posted they prefer a really thick fluid. Just my opinion but I think a spool pulls harder.

I would put the protector on first then build the chassis. this way you can get to the screws without tearing the protector.
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Old 04-09-2013, 10:55 PM   #2700
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if I set my throttle epa on the radio at half then calibrate the esc then max out the epa on the radio that would make my esc's endpoint 150%? thus create more speed
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