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Old 03-28-2013, 07:54 AM   #2656
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No problem, glad to help. I do not own a Sakura but help work on some owned by fellow racers while at the track if someone needs my help.

Another tip to try is I always keep the front belt just a tick tighter than the rear belt. This helps ensure the front end is the first to get the surge of power when you grab full throttle while exiting a corner. If the rear belt is tighter than the front the car may feel loose when you first apply power as the rear wants to pass the front for a split second until all slack is removed from the front belt. This also seems to help when applying brakes as you enter a corner. Hope that made some sense.
This is awesome advice. A older racer told me about this a few years ago, and I tried it. By goodness it works very well.

Tight in the front loose in the back, will help correct your car if it wants to spin out. I thought he was full of it till I tried.
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Old 03-28-2013, 12:09 PM   #2657
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No problem, glad to help. I do not own a Sakura but help work on some owned by fellow racers while at the track if someone needs my help.

Another tip to try is I always keep the front belt just a tick tighter than the rear belt. This helps ensure the front end is the first to get the surge of power when you grab full throttle while exiting a corner. If the rear belt is tighter than the front the car may feel loose when you first apply power as the rear wants to pass the front for a split second until all slack is removed from the front belt. This also seems to help when applying brakes as you enter a corner. Hope that made some sense.
I completely understand the dynamics of what you said. Thank you! I noticed that if the belt is slightly touching the bearing on the belt tensioner it behaves better. When it's slightly more down on the belt it's affects it very differently which is how I did have it. This is why some stated they don't even use one. It seems with some it's happier without it and some with it. I have it nowtouch the belt ever so slightly, at least mine is this way, and that resolved it.

Thank you.

Last edited by Speed Passion; 03-28-2013 at 07:55 PM.
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Old 03-28-2013, 05:56 PM   #2658
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Hit up TQ racing, they will have it to you in about 4 days.
Thanks for the tip...I already ordered from RCMart, but I could order another set from TQ if they have it in stock. Won't hurt to get a set early and then keep a spare.
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Old 03-28-2013, 07:58 PM   #2659
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I completely understand the dynamics of what you said. Thank you! I noticed that if the belt is slightly touching the bearing on the belt tensioner it behaves better. When it's slightly more down on the belt it's affects if differently which is how I did have it. This is why some stated they don't even use one. It seems happier without it and with it, have it touch the belt ever so slightly. At least mine is this way.

Thank you.
You sound like an inquisitive racer who is observant and is not afraid to learn from experimentation. That's great to hear.

I'm glad you understand what I was saying about belt tension between the front and rear. It can be an important feature nobody lists on their setup sheets that many overlook.

I personally don't call the little bearing pulley a belt tensioner but many do as we all know. It really is not needed as the belt tension is set by the differential bearing eccentrics or "cams" instead. My CEFX EVO car does not have a traditional top deck thus there it no bearing "tensioner" at all and the car runs great without one.

Once I started running my Tamiya cars I was introduced to the little upper bearing (belt guide) as it is standard on those cars. It is really just there to stop harmonic belt slap at certain RPMs which might affect smooth power delivery a belt drive is known for. Your observations are spot on and I too only adjust the bearing to just barely touch the top of the belt while at rest, any more and you can introduce unwanted drag to your drivetrain. Good eye on that one!

(now for a little speech as you seem to be open minded )

Keep up the investigating into of how things work as it is these little tricks that make one racer's car better (faster) than another because it is easier to drive why?......... because it is predictable on the track.

A car you are always "adjusting to" or "reacting to" is hard to drive making your lap times inconsistent thus slower than they can be. The car needs to be predictable and almost an extension of your thoughts when driving. When you achieve that balance you can put the car anywhere on the track you want to not "wherever it ends up" and you will be a weapon in your racing class. While racing you will soon see openings where you can pass others that you do not see today as you will be confident that your car will perform the way you want it too when you need it.

I try to help out anyone at the track that is willing to learn and tell them my philosophy which is if you want to be fast on the track you must first be a good mechanic. Because a poorly built or neglected car you are constantly trying to wrangle around the track is not a fast car no matter how good your skills are. When it comes to on-road racing you get out of it what you put into it.

Continue your learning and you will be a better racer for it. Good Luck!
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Old 03-28-2013, 07:58 PM   #2660
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Thanks for the tip...I already ordered from RCMart, but I could order another set from TQ if they have it in stock. Won't hurt to get a set early and then keep a spare.
Yes!! TQ Racing is the ideal place to order from. My experience is they are fast and courteous. Iv'e even been at the store/track and they are really nice there.

I receive orders in 1-2 days. They are very fast in shipping and I've never had one order issue and I've placed over 30-40 orders so far over the year.

Hope that helps!
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Old 03-31-2013, 08:41 AM   #2661
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I've ordered most of my stuff for the Sakura from TQ Racing... Reasonable shipping rates, and there pretty fast in getting orders shipped out to you.

If something you want is out of stock, check back in a day or two and I've noticed there back in stock
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Old 03-31-2013, 04:05 PM   #2662
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Set up no.2 for the s lol
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Old 04-01-2013, 02:33 PM   #2663
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Kudos to TQ Racing. Very fast shipping, and car is back in action.
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Old 04-01-2013, 07:07 PM   #2664
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what are you guys running for droop on carpet and for pavement?
I notice that on rear bearing carrier it has a place for a set screw( its lower) so would you measure from the bottem of that or where the shaft/pin gos in the arm?

Last edited by TeamThibault; 04-01-2013 at 09:17 PM.
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Old 04-03-2013, 02:46 PM   #2665
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what are you guys running for droop on carpet and for pavement?
I notice that on rear bearing carrier it has a place for a set screw( its lower) so would you measure from the bottem of that or where the shaft/pin gos in the arm?
Can't say for pavement, but I run my screws in until the rear of the car is 5.15mm rear and the front is 5.95mm.

I use my calipers to measure from my flat surface ( large piece of glass ) to the bottom of the chassis on all four corners.
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Old 04-03-2013, 06:19 PM   #2666
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Can't say for pavement, but I run my screws in until the rear of the car is 5.15mm rear and the front is 5.95mm.

I use my calipers to measure from my flat surface ( large piece of glass ) to the bottom of the chassis on all four corners.
??????? Are you using your droop screws for ride height? The shock collar adjustment is for ride height. the droop is how many mm the arms fall before the tires come off the ground. if you have a 5 mm ride height and 3 mm of droop then the tires leave the surface when the chassis plate reaches 8 mm. if you are running your screws in you probably have preload in the springs and an extremely tight, bumpy, and rather darty car. You won't experience very much weight shift front to back or side to side. usually the car will push badly entering a turn and the rear will spin out exiting. I can't imagine it handles very well.

I race on carpet and I run 3 mm droop in the rear and 2.5 to 3 in the front. I may tighten up to 2 mm if traction is really high. don't race much asphalt but the same settings worked ok the few times I have.

by the way I'm running a 5 to 5.5 mm ride height. if you make a ride height adjustment remember to reset your droop. Ride height adjustments will affect how many mm of droop you have. I recommend backing out the droop screws a few turns, set your ride height, then adjust the droop screws. make sure both front tires are the same and both rear tires are the same or your weight shift will be different in left and right turns.
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Old 04-03-2013, 06:30 PM   #2667
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what are you guys running for droop on carpet and for pavement?
I notice that on rear bearing carrier it has a place for a set screw( its lower) so would you measure from the bottem of that or where the shaft/pin gos in the arm?
Easiest way to measure droop although maybe not the most accurate but accurate enough is with a ride height gauge under the center front or center rear of the car. if you have a 5 mm ride height and you want 2 mm of droop then set the car on the 7 mm of the gauge. if the tires are off of the ground then loosen the droop screw until the tires barely touch the ground. if they are on the ground then tighten the droop screw until the tires barely lift off of the ground.
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Old 04-04-2013, 07:52 AM   #2668
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??????? Are you using your droop screws for ride height? The shock collar adjustment is for ride height. the droop is how many mm the arms fall before the tires come off the ground. if you have a 5 mm ride height and 3 mm of droop then the tires leave the surface when the chassis plate reaches 8 mm. if you are running your screws in you probably have preload in the springs and an extremely tight, bumpy, and rather darty car. You won't experience very much weight shift front to back or side to side. usually the car will push badly entering a turn and the rear will spin out exiting. I can't imagine it handles very well.

I race on carpet and I run 3 mm droop in the rear and 2.5 to 3 in the front. I may tighten up to 2 mm if traction is really high. don't race much asphalt but the same settings worked ok the few times I have.

by the way I'm running a 5 to 5.5 mm ride height. if you make a ride height adjustment remember to reset your droop. Ride height adjustments will affect how many mm of droop you have. I recommend backing out the droop screws a few turns, set your ride height, then adjust the droop screws. make sure both front tires are the same and both rear tires are the same or your weight shift will be different in left and right turns.
That makes sense, maybe I explained it wrong.

I set the ride height with the springs, with everything level, the I adjust the spring collars to get the adjustment, then use droop screw to really tune it in.

Am i doing this incorrectly? It seems to be working, but if I could do something different to pick up a few tenths I am all ears.
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Old 04-04-2013, 08:20 AM   #2669
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I have a ride height gauge that doubles as a droop gauge and I also have a droop gauge that Associated sells. I use these to set my droop without the C-hubs or rear carriers on the suspension arms.

The picture below is self explanatory and is how I setup my cars.

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Old 04-04-2013, 06:47 PM   #2670
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That makes sense, maybe I explained it wrong.

I set the ride height with the springs, with everything level, the I adjust the spring collars to get the adjustment, then use droop screw to really tune it in.

Am i doing this incorrectly? It seems to be working, but if I could do something different to pick up a few tenths I am all ears.
The droop screws don't have anything to do with the ride height. you want to get your ride height with the spring collars like you are doing but fine tune with the collars only. Be sure to do this with the droop screws backed off a few turns so they don't interfere with the process. after you have your ride height where you want it you want to set the fall of the suspension arms when the chassis is lifted. This is your droop measurement. Say you set 5 mm of ride height with the spring collars and you want 3 mm of droop in the front place the front center of the chassis on the 8mm block of a ride height gauge and tighten the droop screws until the tire barely lifts off of the ground. do this for both arms and make them as even as possible. repeat for the rear of the chassis.

Chassis droop helps control the weight shift of the chassis and the effects are usually felt at the other end of the chassis meaning front droop affects how the rear of the chassis feels under acceleration. the rear droop affects how the car feels under braking. More front droop means that, when you pull the trigger, the front of the car is allowed to lift higher placing more weight in the rear direction of the chassis for better traction. more rear droop means the rear of the chassis is allowed to raise more so the front bites more under braking. be careful though. too much rear droop will put too much weight on the front and the rear will become light and loose under braking. likewise too much front droop and you will lose on power steering. droop will also affect the side to side weight shift in cornering. as a general rule the more droop you have the more sluggish the car will responding to direction changes but not enough droop and the car is too tight and will not want to respond to a direction change much at all. The correct amount of droop is determined by traction, weather the track is technical or not, and personal preference. When you first try it out the car will feel a lot different from the setting you have been using but stick with it and "relearn" the way the car feels and your lap times and your confidence in the handling of the car will improve. Tuning with droop can make a huge difference in your lap times and consistency.

Hope my explanation isn't confusing. please ask any questions and I will try my best to answer.
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