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Old 03-12-2013, 09:36 PM   #2596
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Originally Posted by ta04evah View Post
What motor were you using and what's the internal ratio of the car?

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was thing on trying a speed passion v3
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Old 03-13-2013, 05:10 AM   #2597
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hi guys
any 1 want to share there gearing for 21.5
i was running 60/41 last night and motor went bang
Your fdr was 2.7 with that combo depending on your track but anywhere between 3.5-4 would be better try 60/31 and check temps
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Old 03-13-2013, 10:29 AM   #2598
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I committed a ton of money to basic spares (things like arms, etc.) so I guess I am committed to a long term relationship with the zero s. I almost wonder if I should have just bought a second one
Don't feel guilty or bad as you are not alone. I bought enough parts to last for years. I could of bought two more if not three but that is just more batteries, ESC's and tires and motors etc. to buy in addition and will take up more space. You can go either way, sure, buy another car, or get only the specific parts that are needed to keep one car nice and sweet and running for a long time.

Is it better to have two cars that are stock or one with all the aluminum quality parts? Depends what you do and what you prefer. I have to admit it's addicting as 3Racing was smart to design a nice car and keep it affordable. I have had many cars over the years and never regretted having extra parts as after time you can't get them anymore.

This is a very nice car, hopped up or not and it's worth to tweak with nicer parts, it adds performance and durability which is what we all want in a budget car. So don't feel bad. If this was a crappy car, then yes it's a bad investment, but it's not so enjoy!!

Last edited by Speed Passion; 03-13-2013 at 11:02 AM.
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Old 03-13-2013, 01:36 PM   #2599
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im having a problem, i just installed the vertical motor mount, modded the top deck and all seemed well until i drove it... its pulling to one side on power anyone had this problem? if so whats the issue and the resolution? i checked for tweeks in the chassis, binds in the wheels and drive train. i cant find the problem
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Old 03-14-2013, 04:50 AM   #2600
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I would look back a few pages when there was talk of shimming the bulkheads (I believe). Seems to be a problem for some and causes binding.
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Old 03-14-2013, 01:01 PM   #2601
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Originally Posted by sonspit View Post
im having a problem, i just installed the vertical motor mount, modded the top deck and all seemed well until i drove it... its pulling to one side on power anyone had this problem? if so whats the issue and the resolution? i checked for tweeks in the chassis, binds in the wheels and drive train. i cant find the problem
The whole front and rear drive shaft that has the pulleys on it should be able to move a hair left and right if you try to move it by hand. If you can't move it, then it's binding. Place a .3mm shim under the bulk head covers. Should raise it .3mm and release it IF that is even the cause to your pulling to one side.

Hope that helps.
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Old 03-14-2013, 01:11 PM   #2602
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Originally Posted by sonspit View Post
im having a problem, i just installed the vertical motor mount, modded the top deck and all seemed well until i drove it... its pulling to one side on power anyone had this problem? if so whats the issue and the resolution? i checked for tweeks in the chassis, binds in the wheels and drive train. i cant find the problem
I am just reminding you to check your bearing carriers to make sure that you have them in the same position side to side?
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Old 03-14-2013, 01:48 PM   #2603
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Probably your real issue! I agree that would be more of your cause than just binding. Good call gerrbear!!
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Old 03-14-2013, 08:43 PM   #2604
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Your fdr was 2.7 with that combo depending on your track but anywhere between 3.5-4 would be better try 60/31 and check temps
I run 34/70. 4.12. Can go up to 37/70 3.78 on more open tracks.
Before its to hot at 6mins.
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Old 03-14-2013, 08:50 PM   #2605
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im having problem with the shocks. i just cant get 100% rebound they are the new shocks with the threaded bodys
i have rebuilt them 5 times watch 10 vids on how to rebuild shocks ... im guessing that tamiya shocks should be my next purchase
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Old 03-14-2013, 09:00 PM   #2606
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anyone use these for vta? I am looking to use mine here locally soon and was wondering what would be a good setup gearing wise
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Old 03-15-2013, 12:25 AM   #2607
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anyone use these for vta? I am looking to use mine here locally soon and was wondering what would be a good setup gearing wise
It's been discussed to DEATH in the thread. Just search and you'll find more information than you could ever need.

And yes. It's used extensively for VTA.
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Old 03-15-2013, 01:59 AM   #2608
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im having problem with the shocks. i just cant get 100% rebound they are the new shocks with the threaded bodys
i have rebuilt them 5 times watch 10 vids on how to rebuild shocks ... im guessing that tamiya shocks should be my next purchase
Why do you want 100% rebound i was taught to not let the shocks rebound at all afterall thats what the springs are for
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Old 03-15-2013, 02:31 AM   #2609
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You can use rebound as a tuning aid. Some people prefer it, some don't. 100% is pretty extreme though. I doubt you'll get that without putting too much oil in the shocks, limiting the travel of the piston.

I've always ran about 10% rebound on mine. I just want to see a SMALL movement after a full compression. It's much easier to build shocks consistently this way.
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Old 03-15-2013, 05:02 AM   #2610
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You can use rebound as a tuning aid. Some people prefer it, some don't. 100% is pretty extreme though. I doubt you'll get that without putting too much oil in the shocks, limiting the travel of the piston.

I've always ran about 10% rebound on mine. I just want to see a SMALL movement after a full compression. It's much easier to build shocks consistently this way.
Agree 100%. The shocks are not like full size car shocks. The oil is for dampening only and the springs control bound and rebound. I build mine for 0 to 10% rebound. 100% rebound will only result in an untuneable suspension and a lot of leaking shocks.
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